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THE OVERLAND ROUTE 




Third Edition, 



Oompliments of tpe 

I assenaer Departrhent, 



Copyrighted, January, 1890, 
By E. L LOMAX, General Passenger Agent, Union Pacific Sys., Omaha, Neb. 



Rand, McNally & Co., Printers, Chicago. 



OFFICERS OF THE UNION PACIFIC SYSTEM. 



CHARLES FRANCIS ADAMS. President, 
^V. n. HOLCOMI5. Vice-President, . 
GARDINER M. LANE, Second Vice-President, 
THOS. L. KIMBALL, Third Vice-President, 



ALEX. MILLAR, Secretary, 

JAMES G. HARRIS, Treasurer, 

OLIVER W. MINK, Comptroller, 

JOHN S. CAMERON, Chief Construction Department, 

V. G. BOGUE, Chief Engineer. . 

C. S. MELLEN, General Traffic Manager, . 

J. A, MUNROE, Assistant General Traffic Manager, 
E. L. LoMAX, General Passenger Agent Missouri River Division, 
Jno. W. Scott, Assistant General Passenger Agent Missouri River Division, 
J. A. S. Reed, General Traveling Agent Passenger Department, 
A. Traynor, General Baggage Agent, ..... 
J. S. Tebbets, General Freight Agent Missouri River Division, 



Boston, Mass. 
Omaha, Neb. 
lioston, Mass. 
Omaha, Neb. 



Boston, Mass. 
Boston, Mass. 
Boston, Mass. 
Omaha, Neb. 
Omaha, Neb. 
Omaha, Neb. 
Omaha, Neb. 

Omaha, Neb. 

Omaha, Neb. 

Chicago, 111. 

Council Bluffs, Iowa. 

Omaha, Neb. 



P. A. Warrack, Assistant General Freight Agent Missouri River Division, 
Elmer H. Wood, Assistant General Freight Agent Missouri River Division 
T. W. Lee, General Passenger Agent Pacific Division, .... 
W. H. HuRLBURT, Assistant General Passenger Agent Pacific Division, 

A. L. Maxwell, General Agent Traffic Department, .... 

B. Campbell, General Freight Agent Pacific Division, .... 
J. G WooDWORTH, Assistant General Freight Agent Pacific Division, 

, General Freight and Passenger Agent Mountain Division, 

J. V. Parker, Assistant Gen'l Fr't and Pass. Agent Mountain Division, 



Geo. Ady, General Passenger Agent Colorado Division, 

F. B. Semi'LE, Assistant General Passenger Agent Colorado Division, 

F. L. Lynde, General Passenger Agent St. J. & G. I. R. R. Div., 

W. P. Robinson, Jr., General Freight Agent St. J. & G. I. R. R. Div., 

J. B. Frawley, Division Passenger Agent, 

F. B. Whitney, Assistant General Freight Agent, 
H. A. Johnson, Assistant General Freight Agent Colorado Division, 
S. W. Eccles, General Agent Freight Department, .... 
R. Te.nbroeck, General Eastern Agent, ...... 

W. H. Knight, General Agent, 

J. F. Aglar, General Agent, ........ 

J. D. Welsh, General Agent, Cincinnati, Ohio 



Omaha, Neb. 

Omaha, Neb. 

Portland, Ore. 

San Francisco, Cal. 

Portland, Ore. 

Portland, Ore. 

Portland, Ore. 

Salt Lake City, Utah. 

Salt Lake City, Utah. 

Denver, Colo. 

Denver, Colo. 

St. Joseph, Mo. 

St. Joseph, Mo. 

Kansas City, Mo. 

Kansas City, Mo. 

. Denver, Colo. 

San Francisco, Cal. 

New Vork. 

Chicago, 111. 

St. Louis, Mo. 



D. M. Collins, General Agent, 

E. Dickinson, General Manager Missouri River Division, . 

J. O. Brinkerhoff, Superintendent Kansas Division, 
J. M. Barr, Superintendent Nebraska Division. 
J. K. Choate, Superintendent Colorado Division, 

C. F. Resseguie, General Manager Mountain Division, 

W. L. Ryder, Superintendent Wyoming Division, 
W. E. Green, Superintendent Idaho Division, 
W. W. Riter, Superintendent Utah Division, 

C. J. Smith, General Manager Pacific Division, 

'« C. W. Johnson, Superintendent Pacific Division, 

C. F. Meek, General Manager D., T. & Ft. W^ R. R., 

E. McNeill, General Manager St. J. & G. I. R. R. Division, 

Wm. Williams, Superintendent St. J. & G. I. R. R. Division, 

E. Buckingham, Superintendent Car Service, 

C. II. McKiBBiN, General Purchasing Agent, 

L. II. KoRTY, Superintendent Telegraph, .... 



Siou.x City, Iowa. 

Omaha, Neb. 

Kansas City, Mo. 

Omaha, Neb. 

Denver, Colo. 

Salt Lake City, Utah. 

Cheyenne, Wyo. 

Pocatello, Idaho. 

Salt Lake City, Utah. 

Portland, Ore. 

Portland, Ore. 

Denver, Colo. 

St. Joseph, Mo. 

St. Joseph, Mo. 

Omaha, Neb. 

Omaha, Neb. 

Omaha, Neb. 






•f> 



INDEX. 



General Information. page. 

List of Agents 7 

Pullman Palace Car Rates 9 

Pullman Dining Cars 11 

Meals II 

Excursion Tickets and Rates of Fare 1 1 

Baggage Rates 13 

The Union Pacific System. 

Branches and Auxiliary Lines Com- 
prising the System 14 

Map of the Union Pacific System 

and Connections Opposite 136 

Notes. — Trains, Equipment, Junc- 
tions, and Connections 17 

Outline of the Trip Across the Con- 
tinent to Portland 19 

Washington in March 21 

The Trip Across the Continent to 

San Francisco 23 

Colorado Points. 

Denver 27 

Idaho Springs 29 

Clear Creek Caiion 31 

Gray's Peak 34 

Map of Colorado Opposite 34 

Platte Canon 37 

Boulder Canon 39 

Points About the Colorado Parks. . 40 

Estes Park 40 

North Park 40 

Middle Park 41 

South Park 41 

Alpine Tunnel 43 

Breckenridge 45 

Leadville 45 

Gunnison 45 

Alpine Tours 46 

Wyoming Points. 

Cheyenne 47 

Sherman 49 

Laramie 49 

Green River 49 

Evanston 51 

Yellowstone National Park 51 

Map of Yellowstone Park 

Third page of cover. 



Idaho Points. page. 

Pocatello 57 

Hailey 59 

Ketchura 60 

Boise City 60 

Guyer Hot Springs 60 

Soda Springs 61 

The Great Shoshone Falls 63 

Shoshone Tours 69 

Montana Points. 

Butte City 72 

Anaconda 72 

Garrison 72 

Helena 72 

Oregon Points. 

The Grande Ronde Valley 77 

Palouse Country and Spokane Falls. 77 

The Dalles of the Columbia 79 

Portland 85 

Portland to San Francisco 85 

Portland to Alaska 87 

Portland to Puget Sound 87 

The Lower Columbia 87 

Crater Lake 89 

The Mount Shasta Route gr 

Columbia Tours 92 

Utah Points. 

Ogden 93 

Echo Canon 95 

Weber Caiion 95 

Syracuse Beach 95 

Ogden Caiaon 97 

Utah Hot Springs 97 

Willard Canon and Falls 99 

Garfield Beach 99 

Giant's Cave 107 

Great Salt Lake 107 

Salt Lake City iii 

Salt Lake Tours 115 

Map of Salt Lake 

Second page of cover. 



INDEX. 



Caliiornia Points. page. 

The Yosemite Valley 1 16 

Mariposa and Calaveras Big Trees. 117 

Los Angeles, Santa Barbara, etc. . . 119 

San Francisco 119 

Monterey 121 

Lake Tahoe 121 



PAGE. 

Health 123 

Hunting and Fishing 125 

Points of Interest Reached hy the 

Union Pacific 131 

Elevationsof Cities, Peaks, and Passes 133 

Standard Publications 135 



Appendix Page 137 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Colorado. page. 

Above the Palisades. Alpine Pass. . 12 
Cathedral Spires, South Park Branch 

Union Pacific System 18 

Ten-Mile Canon, South Park Branch 

Union Pacific System from 

Wheeler's, looking up 22 

Gray's Peak 24 

James' Ranch, Estes Park 26 

The Loop, above Georgetown 28 

South Park, from Kenosha Hill 30 

Estes Dome, Estes Park 32 

Middle Park, view of Grand River. . 36 

Dome Rock, Platte Canon 38 

Idaho Springs, Central Branch Union 

Pacific System 78 

Wyoming. 

Green River Buttes 42 

Giant's Tea Kettle, Green River 
Buttes 44 

Yellowstone National Park. 

Gardiner River Hot Springs 48 

Cliff in Grand Canon of the Yellow- 
stone 50 

Terrace and Park, Tyghee Pass 52 

Ford of Snake River ; Spearing 
Trout, Snake River ; Hunter's 

Cabin, Henry's Lake 54 

The Geysers 5*^* 



Idaho. 



Ferry at Great Shoshone Falls 58 

Great Shoshone Falls 62 

Great Shoshone Falls 64 



Alaska. page 

Granville Channel 68 

Sitka Harbor 70 

Devil's Thumb 74 

Oregon. 

Oneonta Gorge, Columbia River. . . 76 
A Fish Wheel, Columbia River. ... 80 
Pillars of Hercules, Columbia River 82 

A Glimpse of Mount Adams 84 

Rooster Rock, Columbia River 86 

Crater Lake 88 

Multnomah Falls, Columbia River. 90 
Utah. 

Pavilion at Garfield Beach, Great 

Salt Lake 94 

Witches Rocks, Weber Canon 96 

Tunnel No. 3, Weber Canon 98 

On the Beach at Garfield, Great Salt 

Lake 100 

West Shore of Antelope Island, 

Great Salt Lake 102 

Pelican Bay, Gunnison Island, Great 

Salt Lake 104 

Jack in the Pulpit, Echo Caiion. . . . 106 
Salt Lake City, from Prospect Hill. 108 
Cliffs of Gunnison Island, Great Salt 

Lake no 

Devil's Slide, Weber Canon 112 

Giant's Cave, Garfield Beach, Great 

Salt Lake 114 

California. 

Yosemite Valley, from Artist's Point 1 18 
Bridal Veil T'alls, Yosemite Valley. . 122 
Beach at Cliff House, San Francisco 128 

The Presidio and Drive to Fort Point, 
San Francisco 10 



'* Know most of the rooms of thy native country before thou goest over the threshold 
thereof. " — Fuller. 



Health and Pleasure Resorts. 




THERE IS THE EAST! 
—THERE IS INDIA!" 



HE road I propose is necessary to us — and now. The 
title to Oregon is settled, and a government established 
there. California is acquired, people are there, and a 
government must follow. We own the country from 
sea to sea, from the Atlantic to the Pacific, upon a breadth 
equal to the length of the Mississippi, and embracing the 
whole Temperate Zone. We can run a road, through and 
through, the whole distance, under our flag and under our 
laws. An American road to India, through the heart of our country, will 
revive upon its line all the wonders of which we have read, and eclipse them. 
The western wilderness, from the Pacific to the Mississippi, will start into life 
at its touch. Let us act up to the greatness of the occasion, and show our- 
selves worthy of the extraordinary circumstances in which we are placed by 
securing, while we can, an American road to India — central and national — for 
ourselves and our posterity, now and hereafter, for thousands of years to 
come." [This is the road— The Union Pacific, "The Overland Route."] 
— Senator Thomas H. Benton, of Missouri, in the Senate of the United States, Feb- 
ruary 7, 1849. 

The question, "Where shall we go for health and pleasure?" assumes 
greater importance each succeeding year with the American public, and these 
pages have been written to assist those who are in doubt in settling this impor- 
tant point, as well as to show them what a wonderful country lies between the 
Missouri River and the Pacific Coast. 

(5) 



5 WESTERN RESORTS 

Americans go to Europe to see Switzerland and the Rhine, to spend a winter 
in Italy, to do the Pyrenees and the Alps, to visit the German spas, the High- 
lands of Scotland, the Giant's Causeway of Ireland, and other places of 
interest; when right in their own country, almost at their doors, are rivers, 
forests, lakes and mountains, and medicinal springs rivaling the Pool of 
Bethesda of old; sublime scenery bordering on the weird and supernatural, 
quiet vales and dells far excelling those of Europe, or any other portion of the 
civilized world. These places, too, are easy of access, and it is not necessary 
to learn a foreign language to be able to enjoy them. 

Following up the sentiment so generally expressed nowadays, " America for 
scenery," it is important that every American, native or naturalized, should post 
himself, as a matter of patriotism and pride, on the resources and character- 
istics of his own country. 

Nowhere on the globe is there to be found such a variety of climate, scenery, 
and resources as between the Missouri River, or the ninety-sixth meridian, and 
the Pacific Ocean; and in this magnificent stretch of country are found resorts 
which can be enjoyed at all seasons of the year. The best climate of every 
known country can be found in this area. Here Nature not only equals but 
excels everything that she has done for mankind in other portions of the globe; 
and American enterprise and skill have made them accessible to the nations of 
the earth. 

To a vast majority of our people this great country was, until within the 
last few years, practically a sealed book, when its treasures of climate, scenery 
and products were opened up to the world, by the original completion and the 
later extensions of the Union Pacific, " The Overland Route." This little 
pamphlet is not a literary attempt, but simply a terse description of many places 
in brief, pointed paragraphs, the object being not to weary the general traveler 
who may chance to read it. 

It will be found that only a few of the most attractive and important points 
on this great transcontinental highway have been mentioned in the following 
pages, because suitable accommodations have not as yet been prepared at all 
of them for the tourist, and the health and pleasure seeker. There are hundreds 
of other points that only await the magic touch of progress to awake from the 
sleep of ages, as did the fabled princess who awaited the coming of her prince. 
Year by year, more and more of these resorts will be developed for the enter- 
tainment and benefit of mankind. 

If these pages shall arouse the patriotism of Americans, and induce them 
to acquaint themselves with the great resources of their own country; with the 
wonderful cures Nature provides at the health resorts for all the ills that flesh is 
heir to; with the facilities for enjoyment at the pleasure resorts that the Union 
Pacific offers them along its lines in the *' Far West," then their mission will 
have been accomplished. 



GENERAL INFORMATION. 



LIST OF. AGENTS. 

Albany, JV. V. — 23 Maiden Lane. — J. D. Tenbroeck, Traveling Passenger Agent. 
Boston, Mass. — 290 Wasliington Street. — W. S. Condell, New Eng'and Freight and Pass. Agt. 
J. S. Smith, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

E. M, Newbegin, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. 
A. P. Massey, Passenger and Freight Solicitor. 

Buffalo, N. Y. — 403^^ Exchange Street. — S. A. Hutchison, Traveling Passenger Agent . 

Seth Caldwell, Traveling Freight Agent. 

Butte, Mont. — Corner Main and Broadway. General Agent. 

Cheyenne, Wyo. — C. W. Sweet, Freight and Ticket Agent. 

Chicago, III. — 191 South Clark Street. — W. H. Knight, Gen'I Agt. Pass, and Freight Depts. 

T. W. Young, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

W. T. Holly, City Passenger Agent. 

Alfred Mortensen & Co., European Immigration Agents, 140 Kinzie Street. 
Cincinnati, Ohio — 56 West Fourth Street. — J. D. Welsh, Gen'I Agt. Freight and Pass. Depts. 

H. C. Smith, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. 
Cleveland, Ohio — Kennard House. — A. G. Shearman, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. 
Colorado Springs, Colo.—E. D. Baxter, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R. R. 
Columbus, Ohio — N. W. Corner Gay and High Streets. — T. C. Hirst, Traveling Passenger Agent. 
Council Bluffs, Iowa— S06 First Avenue. — A. J. Manderson, General Agent. 

R. V/. Chamberlain, Passenger Agent, ) transfer Depot. 

J. W. Maynard, Ticket Agent, ) 

A. T. Elwell, City Ticket Agent, 507 Broadway. 

Dallas, Texas— H. M. De Hart, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R. R. 
Denver, Colo. — 1703 Larimer Street.— F. L Smith, General Agent D., T. cS: Ft. W. R. R. 
Geo. Ady, General Passenger Agent Colorado Division and D., T. & Ft. W. R. R. 

F. B. Semple, Assistant General Passenger Agent Colo. Div. and D., T. & Ft. W. R. R. 
C. H. Titus, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

B. P. M. Kimball, City Ticket Agent. 

Des Moines, Iowa — 218 Fourth Street. — E. M. Ford, Traveling Passenger Agent. 
Detroit, Mich. — 62 Griswold Street. — D. W. Johnston, Michigan Passenger Agent. 
Helena, Mont.— 2% North Main Street.— A E. Veazie, City Ticket Agent. 
Indianapolis, Ind. — Room 3 Jackson Place. — H. O. Webb, Traveling Passenger Agent. 
Kansas City, Mo. — Ninth and Broadway. — J. B. Frawley, Division Passenger Agent. 

J. B. Reese, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

F. S. Haacke, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

H. K. Proudfit, City Passenger Agent. 

T. A. Shaw, Ticket Agent, 1038 Union Avenue. 

A. W. Millspaugh, Ticket Agent, Union Depot. 

C. A. Whittier, City Ticket Agent, 528 Main Street. 

Liverpool, England — 23 Water Street. — S. Stamford Parry, General European Agent. 
London, England — Thos. Cook & Sons, European Passenger Agents, Ludgate Circus. 
Los Angeles, Cal. — 51 North Spring Street. — John Clark, Agent Passenger Department. 

A. J. Hechtman, Agent Freight Department. 
Louisville, Ky. — 346 West Main Street. — N. Haight, Traveling Passenger A^vut. 
New Orleans, La. — 45 St. Charles Street. — C. B. Smith, Gen'I Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R. R. 

D. M. Rea, Traveling Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R. R. 

7 



8 WESTERN RESORTS 

New York City — 287 Broadway. — R. Tenbkoeck, General Eastern Agent. 

J. F. Wiley, Passenger Agent. 

F. R. Se.'VMAn, City Passenger Agent. 
Ogden, Utah — ynion Depot. — C. A. Henry, Ticket Agent. 

C. E. Ingalls, Traveling Passenger Agent. 
Olytnpia, Wash. — 2d Street Wharf. — J. C. Percival, Ticket Agent. 
Omaha, Neb. — Ninth and Farnam Streets. — M. J. Greevv, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

Harry P. Deuel, City Passenger and Ticket Agent, 1302 Farnam Street. 

J. K. Chambers, Depot Ticket Agent, Tenth and Marcy Streets. 
Philadelphia, Pa. — 133 South Fourth Street. — D. E. Eurley, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

L. T. Fowler, Traveling Freight Agent. 
Pittsburg, Pa. — 400 Wood Street. — H. E. Passavant, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. 

Tiios. Spear, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent. 
Portland, Ore. — Cor. Third and Oak Streets. — T. W. Lee, General Passenger Agent Pacific 
Division. 

A. L. M.\xwell, General Agent Traffic Department. 

Harry Young, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

Geo. S. Taylor, City Ticket Agent, cor. First and Oak Streets. 
Port Townsend, IVash. — Union Wharf. — H. L. TiBBALS, Jr., Ticket Agent. 
Pueblo, Colo.—Y.. R. Harding, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R. R. , 
St. Joseph, Mo. — F. L. Lynde, General Passenger Agent St. J. & G. I. R. R. Division 

W. P. Robinson, Jr., General Freight Agent St. J. & G. I. R. R. Division. 
St. Louis, Mo. — 213 North Fourth Street. — J. F. Aglar, General Agent Freight and 
Passenger Departments. 

E. R. Tuttle, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

E. S. Williams, City Passenger Agent. 

C. C. Knight, Freight Contracting Agent. 
Salt Lake City, Utah — 201 Main Street. — J. V. Parker,, Assistant General Freight and Pas- 
senger Agent Mountain Division. 
San Fraticisco, Cal. — i Montgomery Street. — W. H. Hurlburt, Assistant General Passenger 
Agent Missouri River Division. 

S. W. EccLES, General Agent Freight Department. 

C. L. Hanna, Traveling Passenger Agent. 

H. Frodsham, Passenger Agent. 

J. F, FuGAZi, Italian Emigrant Agent, 5 Montgomery Avenue. 
Seattle, Wash. — A. C. Martin, City Ticket Agent. 

O. F. Briggs, Ticket Agent, Dock. 
Sioux City, Iowa — 513 Fourth Street. — D. M. Collins, General Agent. 

Geo. E. Abbott, City Ticket Agent. 
Spokane Falls, Wash. — 108 Riverside Avenue. — Perry Griffin, Passenger and Ticket Agent. 
Tacoma, Wash. — 901 Pacific Avenue. — E. E. Ellis, General Agent Freight and Pass. Depts. 
Ttinidad, Colo.—O. M, Jacobs, General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R. R. 
Victoria, B. C. — 100 Government Street. — G. A. Cooper, Ticket Agent. 
Whatcom, Wash. — J, W. Alton, General Agent Freight and Passenger Departments. 

J. A. S. REED, General Traveling Agent, 191 South Clark Street, Chicago. 

JNO. W. SCOTT. E. L. LOMAX, 

Ass't Gen'l Passenger Agent, General Passenger Agent, 

Omaha, Neb. 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 



PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES. 

Subject to Change. 

Pullman's Palace Car CoiMpany now operates this class of service on 
the Union Pacific and connecting lines. 



PULLMAN PALACE CAR RATES BETWEEN 



Double 
Berths. 


Drawing 
Room. 


$ 5.00 
6.00 


$18.00 
22.00 


5-50 
2.50 
6.00 


20.00 

9.00 

21.00 


2.00 


7.00 


2.50 
4-50 
3-50 
4.00 
8.00 


9.00 
16.00 
12.00 
14.00 

28.00 


8.00 


28.00 


8.50 
13.00 
13.00 
10.00 


32.00 
50.00 
50.00 
38.00 


2.00 




' 11.00 


42.00 


11.00 


42.00 


11.00 
2.00 


42.00 
6.00 



New York and Chicago 

New York and St , Louis. 

Boston and Chicago 

Chicago and Omaha or Kansas City 

Chicago and Denver 

St. Louis and Kansas City 

St. Louis and Omaha 

Kansas City and Cheyenne 

Council Bluffs, Omaha, or Kansas City and Denver 

Council Bluffs or Omaha and Cheyenne 

Council Bluffs, Omaha, or Kansas City and Salt Lake City 

Council Bluffs, Omaha, or Kansas City and Ogden 

Council Bluffs, Omaha, or Kansas City and Butte 

Council Bluffs, Omaha, or Kansas City and Portland 

Council Bluffs, Omaha, or Kansas City and San Francisco or Los Angeles 

Cheyenne and Portland . . 

Denver and Leadville 

Denver and Portland 

Denver and Los Angeles 

Denver and San Francisco 

Pocatello and Butte 



For a Section, twice the Double- Berth Rates will be charged. 
The private hotel, dining, hunting, and sleeping cars of the Pullman 
Company will accommodate from twelve to eighteen persons, allowing a full bed 
to each, and are fitted with such modern conveniences as private, observation, 
and smoking-rooms, folding-beds, reclining-chairs, buffets, and kitchens. They 
are '■'•just the thing " for tourists, theatrical companies, sportsmen, and private 
parties. The hunting cars have special conveniences, being provided with dog- 
kennels, gun-racks, fishing-tackle, etc. These cars can be chartered at follow- 
ing rates per diem (the time being reckoned from date of departure until return 
of same, unless otherwise arranged with the Pullman Company): 

LESS THAN TEN DAYS. 

PER DAY. PER DAY. 

Hotel cars $50.00 Private or hunting cars $35.00 

Buffet cars 45.00 Private cars with buffet 30.00 

Sleeping cars 40.00 Dining cars 30.00 

Ten Days or Over. — $5.00 per day less than above. Hotel, buffet, or 
sleeping-cars can also be chartered for continuous trips without lay-over 
between points where extra cars are furnished (cars to be given up at destina- 
tion), as follows: 

Where berth rate is $i-5o, car rate will be $35-Oo 

" ' " 2.00, " " " 45.00 



2-50, 



55 00 



For each additional berth rate of 50 cents, car rate will be increased $10.00. 




ao) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 11 

The foregoing rates include service of polite and skillful attendants. The 
commissariat will also be furnished if desired. Such chartered cars must 
contain not less than fifteen persons holding full first-class tickets, and another 
full-fare ticket will be required for each additional passenger over fifteen. If 
chartered "per diem'^ cars are given up en route, chartering party must arrange 
for return to original starting point free, or pay amount of freight necessary 
for return thereto. Diagrams showing interior of these cars can be had of 
any agent of the Company. 

PULLMAN DINING CARS 
Are attached to the Council Bluffs and Denver Vestibuled Express running 
daily between Council Bluffs and Denver, and to " The Limited Fast Mail " 
running daily between Council Bluffs and Portland, Oregon. 

MEALS. 

All trains, except those specified above (under head of PuUman Din- 
ing Cars) stop at regular eating stations, where first-class meals are furnished 
under the direct supervision of this Company by the Pacific Hotel Company. 
Neat and tidy lunch-counters are also to be found at these stations. 

BUFFET SERVICE. 
Particular attention is called to the fine Buffet service offered by the 
Union Pacific System to its patrons; Pullman Palace Sleepers now run on 
trains numbers i, 2, 201, and 202. 

, EXCURSION TICKETS AND RATES OF FARE. 
Excursion tickets to prominent resorts west of the Missouri River are on sale 
during the summer months, in most of the Eastern cities, at greatly reduced 
rates of fare. These tickets are good for from thirty days to six months. 
While excursion tickets to Denver, Colorado, Salt Lake City, Utah, San Fran- 
cisco, California, and to Portland, Oregon, are on sale at its Missouri River 
terminals — Sioux City, Council Bluffs, Omaha, St. Joseph, Leavenworth, and 
Kansas City — the Union Pacific has also placed on sale, at greatly reduced 
rates, excursion tickets to all the prominent places and resorts on its lines in 
Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho, Oregon, and Utah; also excursion tickets 
for feide trips have been placed on sale, at greatly reduced rates during the 
summer months, via the Union Pacific, at all its prominent places of resort in 
the above-mentioned territory. For large excursion parties to Idaho Springs, 
Shoshone Falls, Soda Springs, Garfield Beach, Great Salt Lake, and Utah Hot 
Springs, the "Alpine Tours," and "Salt Lake Tours," and also for side trips to 
prominent points of interest near these resorts, the Union Pacific will make 
special excursion rates. 

Note. — For full descriptions of the "Alpine Tours" and "Salt Lake Tours," 
see "Sights and Scenes in Colorado," and "Sights and Scenes in Utah," issued 




(12) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 1$ 

by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific. Send for "Sights and 
Scenes in Idaho and Montana," "Sights and Scenes in Wyoming," "Sights and 
Scenes in Oregon, Washington, and Alaska," and "Sights and Scenes in Cali- 
fornia;" all issued by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, Omaha, 
Nebraska. 

BAGGAGE RATES. 

Subject to Change. 

Free baggage allowance on each full ticket, of any class, is 150 pounds, and 
on each half ticket, 75 pounds, to railroad points, including San Francisco and 
all Pacific Coast points, except between stations in Nebraska, where the free 
baggage allowance is 200 pounds on full tickets, and 100 on half tickets. Bag- 
gage may be checked through from all points in the United States or Canada 
to Union Pacific points, or beyond, including Pacific Coast points. The Union 
Pacific was the first line west of the Missouri River to inaugurate this system. 

Passengers holding full first-class tickets, issued on steamship orders sold 
in foreign countries, for transportation through the United States to foreign 
ports, in either direction, will be allowed 250 pounds of baggage free on each 
full ticket, and 125 pounds free on each half ticket. 

Extra baggage rate, per 100 pounds, is 12 per cent, of first-class unlimited 
fare. Free baggage allowance on stages is from 30 to 50 pounds, and the 
charge for extra weight higher than for same distance by rail. 

Members of the same family can pack their usual allowance of baggage in 
one or more trunks, provided no trunk exceeds 250 pounds in weight. 

The extra baggage rate from Missouri River to points in California is $7.20 
per 100 pounds on all classes of tickets. 

Guns. — Uncased guns will be carried in baggage car only, and no charge 
will be made for a distance of 100 miles or less. For distances over 100 miles, 
baggagemen may charge 25 cents for each passenger division. Cased guns will 
be checked free by baggage agents, as part of the usual baggage allowance, or 
they may be carried by passengers in coaches without charge. 

For Care of Dogs — Baggagemen will collect 25 cents per head for each 
division of less than 100 miles, and for distances over 100 miles at the rate of 
one-quarter of a cent per mile. 

Baby Carriages — When accompanied by passengers with infants, may 
be checked as part of baggage allowance over this company's line, only; 
but when not thus accompanied, they must be turned over to the express 
company. 

Bicycles and Tricycles — Will be checked as part of the usual bag- 
gage allowance, when accompanied by owner holding first-class tickets to 
local points. 



14 WESTERN RESORTS 

BRANCHES AND AUXILIARY LINES COMPRISING THE SYSTEM. 

MISSOURI RIVER DIVISION. 

NEBRASKA DIVISION. 

MILES. 

Main Line — Council Bluffs to Cheyenne 520. 2 

Omaha and Republican Valley Branches — Sioux City to Lincoln, Valley to Manhattan, 
Valparaiso to Stromsburg, Grand Island to Ord, St. Paul to Loup City, Boelus 10 
Nantasket, Oconee to Albion, and Genoa to Cedar Rapids 559-3 



Total Nebraska Division i .079 . 5 

KANSAS DIVISION. 

MII.KS. 

Main Line (Kan. Pac. Ry.) — Kansas City, Mo., to Denver, Colo 639. i 

Junction City & Fort Kearney Railway — Junction City to Concordia and Belleville 87. i 

Solomon Railway — Solomon to Beloit 57.3 

Salina and Southwestern Railway — Salina to McPherson 35.5 

Union Pacific, Lincoln & Colorado Railway — Salina to Colby, via Lincoln Centre 225.3 

Wyandotte & Enterprise Spurs — Armstrong to Wyandotte, and Detroit to Enterprise. ... 4.0 

Total Kansas Division i ,048 . 3 

COLORADO DIVISION. 

MILES. 

Cheyenne District — (Den. Pac. Ry.) — Denver to Cheyenne 106.7 

Julesburg District — Julesburg to La Salle 150 -9 

Fort Collins District — Denver to Colorado Junction 130. 5 

Argo Park District — Jersey to C. C. Cut-off ... 3.1 

Buckhorn District — Loveland to Arkins 7.5 

Greeley, Salt Lake & Pacific Railway — Greeley to Stout 38.6 

Boulder Branch — Brighton to Boulder 27.8 

Marshall District — Argo Junction to Boulder . . 27.0 

! Golden to Georgetown (x) 34 6 

Forks Creek to Central City (x) 1 1 . i 

Georgetown to Graymount (x) 8.2 

Sunset District — Boulder to Sunset (x) 12.8 

Glencoe District — Ralston to Glencoe (x) 4.1 

Caiion District — Denver to Como (x) 88 . 2 

High Line District — Como to Leadville (x) 62.9 

St. Elmo District — Como to St. Elmo (x) 65.1 

Gunnison District — St. Elmo to Baldwin (x) 66.0 

Morrison District — Sheridan to Morrison (x) 9.5 

Keystone District — Dickey to Keystone (x) 6.9 

London District — Garos to London (x) ... ) 5 ■ 5 

Buena Vista District — Schwander's to Buena Vista (x) 3.8 

Como Coal District — King to Coal Branch Junction (x) 3.3 



Total Colorado Division 884 . i 



Total Missouri River Division 3.011.1 



(x) Narrow Gauge. 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 15 
DENVER, TEXAS & FT. WORTH RAILROAD. 

"TEXAS-PANHANDLE ROUTE." 

MILES. 

Main Line — Denver to Ft. Worth . 803 . 3 

Manitou Junction to Colorado Springs g.o 

Franceville Junction to Franceville 4.0 

Trinidad to Maxwell 15.8 

Washburn to Panhandle City 16.0 

Cuchara Junction to Walsenburg 6.6 

Chicosa to Victor and Chappell , , 16.5 



Total 871.2 

MOUNTAIN DIVISION. 

WYOMING DIVISION. 

MILES. 

Main Line — Cheyenne to Ogden 514-7 

Laramie, North Park & Pacific Railway — Laramie to Soda Lake 13.2 

Echo & Park City Railway — Echo to Park City 28 . 2 

Utah Eastern District — Coalville to Summit Mine (x) .• 3.0 

Cheyenne & Northern Railway — Cheyenne to Wendover 122.9 

Carbon Cut-off — Allen Junction to Hanna 16. i 



Total Wyoming Division 

IDAHO DIVISION. 



MILES. 
J Ogden to Pocatello (x) 153 4 

;5-4 

Oregon Short Line — Granger to Huntington and Ketchum, and Nampa to Boise 629.7 



Utah & Northern Railway — -; ^ „ „., ^ 

( Pocatello to Silver Bow 25; 



Total Idaho Division 1,038.5 

UTAH DIVISION. 

MILES. 

Utah Central Railway — Ogden to Salt Lake City and Frisco 275 . 5 

Utah & Nevada Railway — Salt Lake City to Garfield Beach and Terminus. . . 37 .0 

Salt Lake & Western Railway — Lehi Junction to Tintic and Silver City 53.8 



Total Utah Division 366 . 3 

Total Mountain Division 2,102.9 

PACIFIC DIVISION. 

MILES. 

Oregon Railway «& Navigation Co.'s Lines — Huntington to Portland and Wallula Junction, 431.6 

Eastern Division — Pendleton to Spokane Falls, and Walla Walla to Wallula Junction, . . . 282.4 

Dayton Branch — Bolles Junction to Dayton 13.0 

Pomeroy Branch — Starbuck to Pomeroy 29 . 5 

Pampa Branch — La Crosse Junction to Connell 53 o 

Moscow Branch — Colfax to Moscow 27.8 

Pleasant Valley Branch — Winona Junction to Seltin 47-7 

Mullan Branch — Tekoa to W^allace , .... 79.9 

Heppner Branch — Willows Junction to Heppner 45 . 2 



(x) Narrow Gauge. 

(Continued on page 16.) 



16 WESTERN RESORTS 

PACIFIC 1 )I VISION— Continued. 
Water Lines ; — 

Portland, Tacoma, and Alaska Steamships i 

Portland and San Francisco Steamships. 

Puget Sound Steamers. 

Columbia River Steamers. 

Willamette River Steamers. 

Snake River Steamers. 

Total Pacific Division, miles i,oio.i 

ST. JOSEPH & GRAND ISLAND RAILROAD DIVISION. 

MILES. 

Main Line — St. Joseph to Grand Island 251.7 

K. C. & O. Ry. — Fairbury to Stromsburg 75-9 

K. C. & O. Ry. — Fairfield to McCool Junction 39 . 2 

K. C. & O. Ry.— Fairfield to Alma 87.2 

Kansas Central Railway — Leavenworth to Miltonvale (x) 165 -9 

Leavenworth, Topeka & South-Western Railway — Leavenworth to Topeka 56. i 

Leavenworth & Lawrence Railroad — Leavenworth to Lawrence 34 • o 

Total St. Joseph & Grand Island Railroad Division 710.0 

MONTANA UNION RAILWAY. 

MILES, 

Main Line — Butte to Garrison , 51-2 

Anaconda Branch — Stuart to Anaconda ... S.4 

Total Montana Union Railway 59-6 

RECAPITULATION. 

MILES. 

Missouri River Division 3, on .9 

Mountain Division 2, 102 . 9 

Pacific Division 1,010.. i 

St. Joseph & Grand Island Railroad Division 710.0 

Denver, Texas & Ft. Worth Railroad 871.2 

Montana Union Railway 59- f> 

7,765-7 

(x) Narrow Gauge. 




NOTES. 




TRAINS, EQUIP- 
MENT, 
JUNCTIONS, 

AND 

CONNECTIONS. 



T IS worth while knowing that two trains leave Sioux City and 
Council Bluffs every day for Denver, Ogden, Salt Lake 
City, Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Portland. One of 
these trains, the fast one, is called "The Limited Fast 
Mail." From Kansas City two fast express trains leave 
daily for Denver, Cheyenne, Salt Lake City, and Port- 
land. These trains have Pullman Palace Sleeping Cars 
and modern Day Coaches. The equipment of these 
trains is unsurpassed, and all that can be desired. A good road-bed, standard- 
gauge track, steel rails, iron bridges, and stone culverts combined, insure 
safety and speed. 

The important points where connections are made are as follows: 
JuLESBURG, Colorado, five miles from the Colorado-Nebraska State line, 
where the Council Bluffs & Denver line branches off to Denver. 

Denver, Colorado, where the Colorado branches of the Union Pacific 
connect for Idaho Springs, and important cities, resorts, and places in 
Colorado. 

Cheyenne, Wyoming, where the Kansas main line from Kansas City and 
the Denver Pacific main line from Denver to Cheyenne, join the Nebraska 
main line. 

(17) 




(18^ 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 19 

Granger, Wyoming, where the Union Pacific branches off for Portland, 
Oregon. The trains, however, connect at Green River, thirty miles east of 
Granger, and are made up at that point. 

Pocatello, Idaho, where the Utah & Northern branch of the Union Pacific 
connects with the main line for Butte, Garrison, and Helena. From Pocatello 
the Utah & Northern branch also diverges south to Ogden, Salt Lake City, 
and Garfield Beach. 

Beaver Caxon, Idaho, on the Utah & Northern branch, where connection 
is made with the Union Pacific stages for the Yellowstone National Park. 

Shoshone Station, Idaho, on the Union Pacific Ry., where connection is 
made, via stage, for the Great Shoshone Falls, and also where a branch of 
the Union Pacific Ry. makes connection for Hailey and Ketchum. 

Nampa, Idaho, where the Idaho Central branch connects with the main 
line for Boise City. 

Ogden, Utah, where the Utah Central branch of the Union Pacific connects 
with the main line for Salt Lake City, Garfield Beach, Provo, Spanish Forks, 
and Frisco, and also where the Southern Pacific Railroad connects for Sacra- 
mento, Los Angeles, and San Francisco. 

Salt Lake City, Utah, where the Utah & Nevada branch of the Union 
Pacific connects for Garfield Beach, on the shores of the Great Salt Lake. 

OUTLINE OF THE TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT TO 

PORTLAND. 

The Union Pacific is the great National highway and forms a part of the 
first transcontinental line of railroad from ocean to ocean. It was conceived, 
and its con.struction authorized, as a war measure, the needs of the Gov- 
ernment during the war of the rebellion having clearly shown the necessity 
for it. 

Years have demonstrated that this grand road was most wisely and skillfully 
planned. There is no other line to-day possessing its peculiar advantages, 
and there can never be a railway constructed across the continent like it, 
for the simple reason that the Union Pacific occupies the very best belt of 
country obtainable. There is immunity, on the one hand, from the blazing 
suns and stifling alkali dust of the southern deserts; and on the other, the 
lightest possible snow-fall to be encountered on the mountain summits. It is 
the natural highway either for summer or winter, spring or autumn, and it 
must forever remain so. No amount of specious reasoning can shake the 
solid fact, that the Union Pacific line is the one railway across the continent 
unassailable by summer heat or winter storms. 



20 WESTERN RESORTS. 

The passenger trains of this great railway are truly cosmopolitan in the 
curious make-up of their occupants. As one walks through the handsome 
sleepers or day-coaches on any of the trains, one sees a dozen different 
national types and hears as many different dialects. There is a composite 
world on wheels, and its inhabitants, for the time being, hail from all quarters 
of the globe. 

Leaving Council Bluffs via the Nebraska main line, and Kansas City via 
the Kansas main line, the two lines join at Cheyenne. The Kansas mam line 
runs to Denver; and the trip from Denver to Cheyenne, along the foothills 
of the Rocky Mountains, affords the tourist a kaleidoscopic panorama of hills, 
fields, rivers, running brooks, and lofty mountains. Leaving Cheyenne the 
summit of the Rockies is passed at Sherman, elevation 8,247 f^^t, the highest 
point on the transcontinental ride between the Missouri River and the Pacific 
coast. Leaving Sherman, Ames' Monument and Hippopotamus Rock can be 
seen from the windows of the car. Next, Dale Creek bridge, a wonderful 
structure over Dale Creek, is passed. Then comes Rawlins, Rock Springs, 
and GREEN RIVER, where the trains for Portland, Oregon, are made up, 
although they do hot make their departure from the main line until Granger is 
reached, thirty miles west of Green River, and the trip across the continent 
is continued to the great Northwest. The road goes along over moderate 
curves and grades, through pretty little valleys along the Bear River, until the 
great Territory of Idaho is entered at Border Station. Then on through Soda 
Springs and Pocatello — the junction with the Utah & Northern branch for 
Butte, Garrison, and Helena. Ne.xt, Shoshone Station is reached, where the 
junction is made for the Great Shoshone Falls, via stage, and also for Hailey 
and Ketchum, via rail; thence from Shoshone Station the road stretches away 
through Nampa, where the junction is made with the Idaho Central branch for 
Boise City, nineteen miles distant; and on the train goes from Nampa, through 
Caldwell and Weiser to Huntington, within Oregon; thence from Huntington 
through Baker City, Union, La Grande, Pendleton, and Umatilla Junction to 
"The Dalles," which takes its name from the dalles of the Columbia. From 
this point on to East Portland the trip is one replete with scenic wonders. 
Arriving in Portland, which is the metropolis of the Northwest Pacific 
coast, and a large, handsome, cosmopolitan city, the trip " Across the Con- 
tinent " to Portland, Oregon, is complete — one of the grandest within the 
reach of the traveler. 

From Portland, magnificent ocean steamers depart for the far distant 
Orient. Fine steamers also ply over the broad bosom of the Pacific 
Ocean from Portland to Alaska, and that wonderful Territory of the 
North. The Union Pacific's steamers, which compare favorably with 
the Atlantic steamships, make regular trips twice a week from Portlantl to 
San Francisco. 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 21 

The Pacific Coast Steamship Company also run from Portland to Victoria, 
B. C, connecting with the Union Pacific Ry.'s line of steamers from Victoria, 
via Port Tovvnsend and Seattle, to Tacoma. 

During the excursion season of 1S89 many thousand tourists visited Alaska. 
To say they were pleased conveys but a faint impression of their enthusiasm. 
They were delighted— charmed. Ask any of them, it matters not whom, they 
all make the same report and tell the same story of the matchless grandeur of 
the trip, of the midnight sun, of the placid waters, of the aurora borealis, of the 
majestic mountains, of the inland seas, of the mighty glaciers, of the thunder- 
ing iceberg plunging into the sea and floating off in its glory of inimitable 
splendor, of the wealth of fish, timber and minerals, of the biggest quartz mill 
ever constructed, of the queer customs of the natives, of novelty and startling 
incidents that may well make the trip the object of a lifetime. There is 
nothing like it. 

WASHINGTON IN MARCH. 

Mr. E. V. Smalley, the well known journalist, in speaking of this delightful 
region says: " Early in March I left the storms and snows of the Eastern States, 
and went to the shores of Puget Sound. I spent a week in Seattle and two 
days in Tacoma. The weather was like an English April. It could not be 
closely compared with that of any locality on the Atlantic Slope, but so far 
as temperature was concerned it was as warm as early May in St. Paul. 
The mercury ranged from forty at night to sixty-five at noon. Every 
day except one it rained more or less in occasional warm, light showers. Now 
and then the sun peeped out, but never for long. The quality of the air was 
soft and agreeable. I did not wear an overcoat at any time except when 
driving. Very few people carried umbrellas, and those few appeared to be 
new-comers from the East. The older residents did not mind the misty rain 
when moving about the streets. 

" In the woods many kinds of vegetation had not been killed by the winter's 
frosts, and still showed the green leaves of last year. The door-yards in the 
towns were gay with flowers. Nelson Bennett, the railroad and tunnel builder, 
told me that when news came of the terrible blizzard in New York and other 
eastern cities, he and Mrs. Bennett made up a number of little nosegays, and 
enclosing them in hoUowed-out potatoes, mailed them to friends in those cities. 
In each box was a card inscribed: 'Picked in the open air in Tacoma on the 
day following the great blizzard in the East.' 

" On the nineteenth of March I left the Sound country, with its warm, moist, 
caressing airs and its cloudy skies, and crossing the Cascade Mountains where 
the snow lay deep in the forests, found myself in a wholly different climate. 
By the time the train had descended into the Yakima Valley the clouds were 
all gone and the whole landscape was bathed in brilliant sunshine. There was 




122) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 23 

a little sharp, sub-acid flavor in the air which told of early spring, but this, 
together with the glorious sunshine, gave to the weather an exhilarating effect. 
At Spokane Falls during the last ten days of March the weather was as agree- 
able as early May would be in Minnesota if there were no rain. The sky was 
of a brilliant summer blue, with light, white clouds, and all the spring flowers 
were in bloom. In fact, the buttercups had been out, the people told me, 
since early in February. This is notour Eastern buttercup, of the meadows and 
brook-sides, but a flower with a short stem that grows on dry hill-slopes and 
among the rocks. Indoors it was cool enough in the forenoon for a little fire 
to be agreeable, but outdoors, as soon as the sun was fairly up, the air 
was delightfully warm. The nights were cool, but not cold enough to freeze 
water. 

"Spokane Falls has an elevation of about 2,000 feet above the sea-level 
and is as far north as Fargo and Duluth; yet spring comes as early as in 
Northern Georgia or Alabama. Is it to be wondered at that so many people 
are going to Washington Territory because they want to live where the climate 
is mild and agreeable?" 

THE TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT TO SAN FRANCISCO. 

From GREEN RIVER, the trip across the continent to San Francisco is 
continued. Three miles west of Green River is Fish Cut. Green River buttes 
are objects of interest, and are within sight for miles. After passing Granger, 
Evanston is soon reached. At Wahsatch Station, the summit of the Wahsatch 
range of mountains is reached. The elevation is 6,824 feet, and at this point 
the road enters Echo Canon. Echo Creek, which runs through the canon, is 
crossed thirty-onetimes in twenty-six miles. Three and a half miles west of 
Wahsatch, the train runs into a tunnel 900 feet long. One mile east of Castle 
Rock is a queer formation of rock resembling the ruins of an old castle. 
" Hanging Rock " is what its name indicates. Two and a half miles west of 
Emory, on top of the bluff, is a rock called " Jackin-the-Pulpit," and further on 
can be seen the heights of Echo Caiion, on top of which are the old Mormon 
fortifications. Then comes " Steamboat Rocks." Just before reaching Echo 
are seen the "Amphitheatre," " Pulpit Rocks," and " Bromley's Cathedral." At 
Echo Station, Weber Canon is entered. One and a half miles west of Echo 
can be seen the "Witch Rocks." Five miles further on is the 1,000-mile tree, 
and a mile further on is the " Devil's Slide." Echo and Weber canons compare 
favorably with the celebrated Colorado canons. Three and a half miles west 
of Corydon, the canon broadens out, and to the left are noticed the first of the 
Mormon settlements. About one-half mile away, between Peterson and Uintah 
Station, " Devil's Gate " is to be seen, and shortly after the country widens into 
the Great Salt Lake Valley, when Ogden is reached. The first view of the val- 
ley after the surfeit of mountain scenery, is one of striking contrast, quiet and 




(24) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 25 

pleasant to the eye. Between Cheyenne and Ogden, about ten miles of snow 
sheds altogether are passed at different points on the line. These sheds are 
located between Granite Canon and Buford, Buford and Sherman, Sherman 
and Dale Creek, Dale Creek and Harney, Wilcox and Aurora, Carbon and 
Simpson, Simpson and Percy, and Piedmont and Aspen, all in Wyoming. 
These sheds are quite a feature of the ride across the continent, the Southern 
Pacific road having about thirty miles altogether on its line between Ogden 
and Sacramento. Ogden is 1,034 miles from Council Bluffs, and 833 miles from 
San Francisco; the trip to Salt Lake City and Garfield Beach is made from 
this point. From Ogden, the trip is made over the Central Pacific Railroad, 
over great plains and through immense snow sheds, great mountain ranges, 
beautiful valleys, and jagged foothills. 

Leaving Ogden, the train passes Promontory, which was intended to be the 
point of junction of the two roads forming the transcontinental route, namely, 
the Union and Central Pacific railroads. Later on, Ogden was decided upon 
as a compromise. 

The crowning scenes of the trip across Utah, Nevada, and California are 
not reached until Reno is passed. Cape Horn, Emigrant Gap, the Sierra 
Nevadas, Donner Lake, and other objects of more than ordinary interest will 
be found. Nevada, of course, is celebrated for her famous mines. The great 
mines of Virginia City and the Sutro Tunnel attract numerous visitors. The 
marvelous Carson and Humboldt sinks, in which the waters of all the rivers in 
the State of Nevada, save one, are swallowed, the Mud Lakes, the Borax marshes, 
and countless numbers of thermal springs, have been the wonder of the scientist 
and the delight of the tourist. One hundred and fifty-five miles from Reno is 
Sacramento, a beautiful city, and the capital of California. It is delightfully 
located upon the east bank of the Sacramento River, in the midst of the most 
productive grain fields, vineyards and orchards in the world. The climate is 
delightful, and the surrounding country entrancing. 

P^om Sacramento, the Southern Pacific branches off via Lathrop to Los 
Angeles, from which pomt the prominent cities and noted resorts of Southern 
California are readily reached. From Sacramento, the Davis cut-off, now 
the main line of the Southern Pacific road, takes the tourist through to 
Oakland, where a transfer is made across an arm of the bay to San Francisco, 
and here this part of the trip " Across the Continent " terminates at San 
Francisco, where old Sol, darkly red from his day's exertion, sinks to rest in 
the broad bosom of the Pacific Ocean. 




(36) 



COLORADO POINTS. 




|OLOR VDU lis a Spanish word, signifying **red" or 
" colored " It formed a part of the Louisiana 
purchase in 1803, and on its organization as 
a Territory in February, 1861, it was made 
up of parts of Kansas, Nebraska, Utah, and New 
Mexico Vasquez de Coronado was probably the first 
white explorer to reach this section in 1540 ; in later years 
Captain Pike headed a party in 1806, Colonel Long in 1820, 
and Fremont in 1842-4. Colorado has an area of 104,000 
square miles, and is 380 miles in length and 280 miles wide; ranks first in 
silver and fourth in gold, and in mineral productions is accounted the richest 
of the States. It was admitted to the Union August i, 1876, and is known as 
the " Centennial State." 



DENVER. 

Denver is the social and commercial centre, not alone of Colorado, but also 
of the outlying Territories, and is called the " Queen City of the Plains." Its 
elevation is 5,170 feet above the sea-level. It is the gate to the mineral and 
scenic phenomena that have made the Rocky Mountains famous. In addition 
to its other advantages, it has a peerless climate, more conducive to outdoor 
enjoyment than any other known locality. It is situated on the plains at the 
foot, and almost within, the shadow, of the " Mighty Hills," which protect it 
alike from the extremes of summer and winter weather. The streets are long 
and level, and on either side are rows of shade trees — nourished by streams of 
running water — casting a shade alike upon the mansion and the cottage. 
There is not a paved street in the city, nor one in which the natural roadway 
has been improved, and there is no other city whose thoroughfares are as 
smooth and solid. Its hotels are excellent; in fact, they have all the improve- 

(37) 




(28) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 29 

ments and modern conveniences possessed by the large hotels in the East, and 
the best ones would be first class even in Chicago, St. Louis, New York, or 
Boston. 

From Denver there is an unbroken view of the Rocky Mountains for nearly 
three hundred miles, reaching from beyond Long's Peak on the north to the 
historical summit of Pike's Peak on the south. This lovely mountain view is 
an everyday affair to the citizens of Denver, but nowhere in the world can its 
beauty and grandeur be surpassed. 

The Union Pacific runs two solid trains each way daily between Council 
Bluffs and Denver, and two solid trains each way daily between Kansas City 
and Denver. 



IDAHO SPRINGS. 

Idaho Springs, 7,543 feet above the sea-level, is a beautiful place located in 
Clear Creek Caiion. It is reached from Denver, via Golden, on the Colorado 
Central Branch of the Union Pacific. 

In so far as nature equips resorts, Idaho Springs is the finest that the Rocky 
Mountains afford. It is thirty-seven miles from Denver, situated in a cup, as 
it were, formed by the receding, half-encircling sides of the caiion. The 
heights on either side are not rocky and rugged, but verdant and inviting. 
Sometimes deer are seen wandering through them, almost within sight of the 
hotels. The place has a population of over 2,000 people, and some of the 
cottages cling to the sides of the canon in a very unique and perplexing man- 
ner. The roads are level and smooth, and lead to the most delightful retreats. 
The hotels are good, and society the best. Idaho Springs is so near Denver 
that many families from the latter city summer here, stopping either at its 
excellent hotels or at the adjoining cottages. 

The springs themselves are a great attraction, resting the wearied and heal- 
ing the sick. Hot and steaming they bubble and hiss from the ground, or icy 
cool they rise to the surface, and steal away in glassy streams. Besides the 
numerous private baths, there is also a mammoth swimming bath, in which a 
good swim may be enjoyed, as a current from the earth's bosom is continually 
flowing. The natural cavern, hot as a Turkish bath-room, is more effective 
than that penetrating bath. It boils impurities from the blood and aches from 
the bones. There seems to be life in it. The pool that the angel troubled in 
olden times never worked greater curative wonders. 

People drink the cool water with the same zest that they bathe in the warm, 
and with equally good results. It has everything that the delicate require, such 
as pure air, constant sunshine, and invigorating waters. An experienced and 
traveled physician has started a sanitarium at Idaho Springs, selecting it because 
it has more days of sunshine in a year than any place within his knowledge. 




(30) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 31 

The following is an analysis of its hot waters : 



Carbonate of soda 52 

Carbonate of lime 16 

Carbonate of magnesia 4 

Carbonate of iron 7 

Sulphate of soda 50 

Sulphate of magnesia 32 

Chloride of sodium 7 

Silicate of soda 6 



Total 177-69 



CLEAR CREEK CANON. 

Clear Creek Canon is one of the wildest gorges in Colorado. Through the 
solid rock of this gorge has been blasted the road-bed of the Union Pacific. It 
is the most accessible gorge of any in the State. In the days of stages and 
freight-wagons, it was used as a thoroughfare. The caiion is only about one 
hour's ride from Denver, and it is reached from that city, via Golden, by the 
Colorado Central Branch of the Union Pacific. This Branch until it reaches 
the foothills, runs through fields as green and past farmhouses as pleasant as 
any of which the older States can boast. 

Leaving Denver Union Depot the road winds along past Argo and Arvada 
to Golden, a pretty and thrifty place just fairly in the mountains. Its site is 
the bed of an ancient lake, which has left its smooth-washed boulders and water- 
marks, the latter high in the air along the buttes. The road enters the cafion 
a few miles west of Golden, and continues on up to Forks Creek, where the 
passenger trains divide; one section hurries onward up to Central City, along a 
branch of Clear Creek Caiion, while the other continues along the caiion proper 
to Idaho Springs, Georgetown, and over the celebrated " Loop " to Silver 
Plume and Graymont at the foot of Gray's Peak. 

The cafion is a marvelous cliff, worn through the solid rock by Clear Creek, 
dashing and roaring near the track, which crosses it at short intervals. Its 
sides, timeworn in a thousand grotesque forms, rise from 500 to 1,500 feet, 
making the sky look like a narrow strip. In places there are intersecting gullies, 
through which rivulets come silvering down, and the sunlight strikes across the 
sombre caiion. Trees grow thick in places, and crown a portion of the heights. 

At Beaver. Brook there is a pavilion for dancing and other accommodations 
for picnickers. 

From Forks Creek the road branches off to Black Hawk and Central City, 
two towns really merging into one. They are but little over a mile apart in 
actual distance, yet to reach Central City from Black Hawk the train passes over 
four miles of marvelously constructed track called the "Switch Back," passing;, 




Estes Dome, Estes Park, Colorado — reached via the Union Pacific Ry, 



(;?2) 



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FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE, 33 

as it rises, the dumps of famous mines, and above crushing and grinding mills. 
From Central City there is a good stage line to Idaho Springs, so that these sprmgs 
are also accessible from Central City, and the journey affords a view seldom 
surpassed. 

From Forks Creek the road winds along the main cailon, through Idaho 
Springs to Georgetown. This town is built on silver-bearing soil, and is sur- 
rounded on three sides by the mountains. It is strange to see this town of 
4,000 people, an animated gem in the setting of the Rockies, with long, roomy, 
stoneless streets and handsome residences. It has an altitude of 8,476 feet — 
considered an ideal height by many, Georgetown seems at first to be the end 
of Clear Creek Caiion, but there is an opening beyond, and through it the road 
has forced its way. 

Green Lake is an emerald gem, sparkling in the sunlight, two miles away 
from Georgetown, and 2,000 feet higher. The lake is clear as crystal, but the 
basin that holds it is green, the sand in it is green, and the moss festoons it like 
a green veil. In places its depth is unknown, and its feeding springs have 
never been found. In its depths the gaunt limbs of skeleton trees, dead but 
erect, beckon from below the ripples on its surface, while trout glide through the 
branches where once the songster of the forest plumed its wings. At one end 
of the lake is the Battle Ground of the Gods, where, according to Indian 
legends, great boulders lie where the wrath of warring deities hurled them- 
Some of the largest of these have formed the Cave of the Winds, through which 
the breezes dolefully sigh. 

After leaving Georgetown, the chief point of interest is "The Loop," and 
here it is that the real glories of the trip are appreciated. The mind can 
readily understand how a train may wind through a chasm. It is less easy, 
however, to realize how, beginning to rise along the side, the elevation 
continues until the tourist looks down upon a town, as it were, in miniature. 
Continuing on its tortuous course, the train worms its way up a steep grade, 
carved and blasted through the rock, and skirts the sides of the mountains 
that lose their crests in snow. In the valley flows the little stream of Clear 
Creek. Past Devil's Gate and Bridal Veil Falls the engine curves and 
climbs. Looking directly above, a railroad track is seen on a high iron 
bridge over-spanning the track almost at right angles, but in the form of a 
crescent. The tourist wonderingly inquires, "What road is that above and how 
did it get there?" For a little way the track is comparatively straight; then it 
varies to the right, crosses the creek and starts down the valley, but still going 
up grade. For perhaps a quarter of a mile this continues. Then the creek is 
crossed again on a high iron bridge. Looking directly down, a track is seen 
below. Then the tourist wonders what track that is and how it got there. 
He looks again before satisfying himself that it is the same track he just passed 
over. He is now on the bridge up at which he was looking but a moment ago. 
From the top, six pieces of track, apparently detached, can be seen. He then 



34: WESTERN RESORTS 

realizes that he has just ridden over an immense loop — one of four in existence. 
There is one on the Southern Pacific Railroad, one in Switzerland, and one in 
the Andes of South America, but this is the most complex of them all. The 
bridge just crossed is 300 feet long and 86 feet high. From Georgetown it 
can be seen one way nestled in the mountains; looking at it from the other way 
there seems to be nothing but a confusion of tracks. 

It is a remarkable climb from here to the Big Fill, which is 76 feet 
high, but too sharp a curve to admit of a bridge, and comes nearer being a 
duplication of "The Loop." Georgetown is still in sight beyond the three 
parallel tracks of " The Loop." Looking down the final curve there is a 
wealth of track, but it dodges hither and thither, no portion seemingly having 
any special relation to its neighbor ; occasionally the entire trackage comes 
into view at once. 

After passing " The Loop" and Silver Plume, Graymont, the terminus of 
the railway, is reached. The tourist must not neglect to 'make this trip, and 
be sure to see sunrise from Gray's Peak, as it is one of the most celebrated 
in America. 

GRAY'S PEAK. 

Gray's Peak is reached from Denver through Clear Creek Cafion, via 
Golden, Forks Creek, Idaho Springs, Georgetown, and Silver Plume to Gray- 
mont, the terminus of the railway, from which station the ascent must be 
made. 

This peak is hidden by intervening mountains from the view at Graymont,- 
the station where horses are taken for its ascent. There is a cosy little hotel 
here with plenty of safe horses and guides, but the trail is so easy that a child 
could almost lead the way. Gray's is higher than Pike's or Long's Peak, and 
Blanca only exceeds it by a few feet in height. Mounting after breakfast, and 
after a sharp turn to the left an earnest climb begins that continues over ridge 
and wooded gullies for two miles. The road has now dwindled to a path. On 
the left are abrupt heights, to which cling the lonely cabins of miners. The 
tunnels above them appear to have no greater circumference than rabbit holes. 
The trails lead across grassy-banked rivulets and blooming knolls past Kelso 
Mountain; then, rounding the hill, Gray's Peak looms up unobscured for the 
first time. Gray's Peak is not rough and chasmed, but its vastness seems all 
the greater, for the reason that it has preserved such a geological calrii, and 
now, like a monarch, mighty in its superiority, looks down upon its fellows, 
sending the morning shadow of its greatness far on to the Pacific slope, and 
its evening profile toward the remote Atlantic. It is a mass, dread and awful. 
The air is rare and clear. Snow is piled about in eternal drifts, and below each 
drift, drawing its life from the exuding dampness, is a bed of flowers. Strange 
anomaly! Winter's hoary locks decked with the buds of June. Vegetation 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 35 

is soon left behind, except here and there a hardy plant, rooted in the rocks. 
The trail ahead is seen on a series of inclined plains to the very crest, going 
backward and forward, but always rising. The hills and cliffs, which seemed 
so lofty, are now far below, and the lesser mountains are left behind, the only 
one unconquered being Gray's Peak. A wavering line stretches back to the 
valley, and the tourist wonders vaguely if that is the trail he has just come 
over. The horse pants as he takes the last turn, his shoes clink upon the 
granite jewels of the continental crown, and Gray's Peak is beneath you. The 
sea is 14,441 feet below your level. Hats off! The Genius of this sublime 
solitude demands homage. 

They who have traversed the globe say that it affords but one such pros- 
pect. A pictured landscape so mighty in conception that it overpowers, yet 
harmonious as an anthem in all its infinite diffusion of color and form, framed 
only by the limit of the eye's vision — a picture where the lakes gleam and the 
rivers flow — where the trees nod and the cloud-ships clash in mystic collision 
with the peaks that have invaded their realm, while the moving sun floods it 
with real life and warmth. 

That which is beheld in silence, who shall describe? Below is the kingly 
monument meeting the heavens and declaring with them the glory of God. In 
every direction spurs of the Rocky Mountains bewilder the eye till remoteness 
swallows them up. Pike's Peak is a neighbor; Lincoln's and Long's seem near. 
The smoke of a score of towns is seen. Every park in the State may be 
located. Rivers are traced from source to mouth. Eastward are the plains — 
a waterless ocean — each town a fleet, each house a sail, each grove an island. 
A dozen peaks over 14,000 feet high are seen. The Holy Cross, like a sacred 
seal, glints in the sunlight miles and miles away. The Uintah Mountains, in 
Utah, are faint but distinct; and so are the Spanish Peaks, which keep watch 
at the line between Colorado and New Mexico. To see the sun rise here is a 
tourist's triumph. To do this, Graymont must be left at one o'clock a. m. 
Scaling the path by moonlight, fording noisy and dimly-seen streams, or plung- 
ing into the darkness of the pines, is a novel experience. Gradually the stars 
fade out, and Gray's Peak, the grim, granite monarch, shines with a borrowed 
lustre, giving back faintly the glow of coming morning. A thousand mount- 
ains turn rosy before Aurora's approach, and then burst into a radiance of 
responsive greeting as she asserts full sway. The valley below is covered up 
in darkness, for the light that quenched the stars has not yet fallen upon it. 
The landscape, at first but a vast expanse without shape or limit, resolves itself 
into an army of mountains, gathered in stupendous array about the Dome of 
the Continent. 

Imagine a view such as the flying bird has — seen with human vision — which 
comprehends the true and the beautiful, whether found in the realm of nature 
or of art. Imagine the heavens divinely painted; the earth striving to give 
back its color; the concourse of peaks meeting the clouds, and the valleys 




(36) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 37 

Stretching between developing upon the sight, such as the image thrown by a 
monster stereopticon, as the morning light comes over the heights upon this 
scene. 

Gray's Peak is Colorado's finest attraction. It is the highest point accessi- 
ble by horse, and commands the most unapproachable view. 

PLATTE CANON. 

Twenty miles from Denver, on the South Park Branch is Platte Canon, 
and through this sinuous rift in the mountains rushes the Platte River, 
dancing out of its shadowy channel into the full light of the valley. The road, 
which is the short line to Leadville and the Gunnison country, enters the canon 
where the river leaves it. The general aspect is much like that of Clear Creek 
•Canon, and it is a friendly rival. It is the same in being a rocky chasm, its 
bed a rushing stream, but different in its wild contour. To reach Platte Caiion, 
the trains pass through the western suburbs of Denver, skirting the w^ooded 
banks of the Platte, and twenty miles out, just where the river dances into the 
sunlight, enter the gloomy caiion between lofty and forbidding walls, which 
continue for fifty miles, receding, at times, to make room for picturesque little 
hamlets like Buffalo, Pine Grove, Slaghts, Grant, Kenosha, Como, and Garos. 
At all of these places, tourists can be accommodated, and trout and game 
abound. 

In fact, the ride over Kenosha Hill down into and through the South Park, 
is a constant reminder of the Alps, so much so that this trip is a part of the 
"Alpine Tours " advertised by the Union Pacific. 

At times, the train seems about to dash against the face of the cliff; but, fol- 
lowing the heavy steel rails, it turns suddenly and passes by in safety. The 
way through the canon is a series of graceful curves, close to the overhanging 
rocks, often crossing the turbulent Platte River. In places, the tops of the 
caiion almost seem to touch and exclude the sun. The caiion is a geological 
study ; the different formations, and the terrific force which has combined 
them, tell their own stories. 

Dome Rock is like the top of a buried mosque, and is as regular in shape 
as if fashioned by the hand of man, except that one side is partly broken away. 
Cathedral Spires are in sight for miles, despite the winding of the canon, and 
keep reappearing long after they are passed. 

This caiion affords fine opportunities for camping out. There is shade in 
plenty, trout, game, and bathing, and good board to be had at neighboring 
houses. But the best way is to live in a tent, and hire a servant to do the 
cooking. This is especially commended to the invalid tourist. There are fifty 
miles of this varying panorama, and after the train climbs Kenosha Hill, South 
Park is seen stretcliing away, one vast and level picture, as different from the 
-caiion as night is from day. 




Dome Rock, in Platte Canon, Colorado — on the Union PaLifu R. 



Cif') 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 39 



BOULDER CANON. 

Boulder Caiion is reached from Denver, via the Colorado Central Branch 
of the Union Pacific to Boulder. From Boulder, a narrow-gauge road has been 
built into Boulder Canon by the Union Pacific. This caiion can favorably 
compare with Clear Creek and Platte Canons, yet it does not equal them in 
length, massiveness, nor height. In one place, a perfect image of Minnehaha 
comes dashing down from amid evergreen sides, and this spot has long been a 
rendezvous for picnic excursions. 

The road, on leaving the town of Boulder, passes through a beautiful grove, 
and continues on by Baldwin, Four-Mile Canon, and Gold Hill, until it reaches 
Penn's Gulch, now known as Sunset. Just before arriving at Sunset, an 
upward glance reveals the high range of mountains, but passing that, the ascent 
is much like that of Kenosha Hill in the South Park, affording, if possible, a 
much finer view. It's a glorious mount of the range, with sweeping, rock- 
bound curves, each one bringing the visitor nearer the summit. The valley, 
with its wavering hills, is receding. The end of the curve is seven and a 
half miles from Sunset. In that distance, there is a marvelous rise of many feet. 
The end of this grade, after all its meanderings, is visible from Sunset. Sunset 
is an acquisition to the excursionist ; Boulder was good before, but with the 
new adjunct, is doubly so. The altitude of Sunset is 7,696 feet. The view 
around Sunset is glorious. On every hand the mountains are glistening with 
snow. Peak rises above peak with majesty unspeakable ; yet, wearying of 
these, the eye may turn and be rested by the vastness of the plains and the 
intervening hills. 

Boulder is forty-seven miles from Denver on the broad-gauge Colorado 
Central Branch of the Union Pacific, although the cut-off via Argo and C. C. 
junctions make it only twenty-nine miles. It can also be reached from Denver, 
via Golden or via Brighton. Its altitude is 5,335 feet, and it has a population 
of over 4,000. It has good hotels, and is a fine summering place. Boulder is 
the county seat of Boulder County, and a key to the caiion of the same name. 
It is situated just at the junction of the foothills with the plains, thus enjoying 
the cool breezes from the mountains, while on the other hand stretch away 
green and fertile acres for cattle and crops. Underneath these acres are vast 
deposits of coal and precious metals, which combine to make Boulder an 
important mining centre. Within a few miles of the town are many pretty lakes 
dotted with water-fowl. The Seltzer Springs, of Springdale, are ten miles 
northwest. The waters from these springs are steadily growing in popularity, 
and are among the best mineral waters in Colorado; along Jim Creek is the 
attractive little glen in which they are found, amidst a dense forest of pines, 
through which runs a fine carriage road. Stages run daily from Boulder to 
this point, where there are good hotels and excellent accommodations. 



40 



WESTERN RESORTS 



POINTS ABOUT THE COLORADO PARKS. 

To fully understand the Colorado parks they must be seen. No description 
can do them justice, and neither the skill of a Bierstadt or Moran could picture 
their pure atmosphere — so like a breath from paradise — nor reproduce their 
beauteous colors and forms. In the city, a park is a huge square, with trees in 
checker-board primness, where the lakes have fish as tame as chickens ; the 
animals are in cages, and are neither attractive nor natural. But how different 
a mountain park ! The range kindly parts to give it room, and shields it in its 
great arms. There are grassy hills and dales where feed the noblest game, 
and trees which shelter birds of plumage and song. The lakes — some of them 
miles in length — are rippled by the coming and going of ducks and geese. 
The streams bear along, eager for the bait of the angler, their speckled loads 
of trout, most delicious as they brown over the evening's coals. There are no 
precise graveled walks, and no elaborate fountains, but the footfall is lost on 
the turf, and springs gush forth with sparkling tune to gladden the thirsty with 
a liquid such as never ran through the rusty pipes of a city. The altitude gives 
coolness without chill, and warmth without oppressive heat. 

ESTES PARK. 

Estes Park is easily reached from Denver, via Loveland, on the Colorado 
Central Branch of the Union Pacific, and a stage line which runs daily, except 
Sunday, from Loveland to the park. 

Estes Park is pronounced the most beautiful of Colorado parks. It lies 
about sixty miles from Denver, at the foot of Long's Peak. The park is ten 
miles square, and its elevation is 8,000 feet above the sea-level. It is a wild 
and incomparable spot. Dinner is taken at Rattlesnake Park about noon, after 
a drive over one of the most beautiful and picturesque of mountain roads. The 
park is reached about five o'clock in the afternoon. The stage ride itself, with 
its beautiful views, is alone worth the trip. At one point on the line over 
thirty-five lakes on the plains and among the foothills are in view from the 
coach. 

From the top of Bald Mountain and Pole Hill views can be had of the val- 
leys of the Cache La Poudre, Big Thompson, and St. Vrain. The view of 
Estes Park and Snowy Range from Park Hill, just before descending into the 
parkj is one of the grandest scenes in the Rocky Mountains. There are plenty 
of accommodations of every kind, and prices are reasonable. There are beau- 
tiful glades and odorous pines, numerous lakes, and game and trout in plenty. 

NORTH PARK. 

North Park is reached from Denver, via the Colorado Central Branch of the 
Union Pacific to Fort Collins, a thrifty and attractive little town seventy-seven 
miles from Denver, and by stage from Fort Collins to the park. North Park 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 41 

can also be reached by stage from Laramie, Wyoming, on the main line of the 
Union Pacific. The road from Fort Collins to the park goes through the world- 
famous Cache La Poudre region, where the hunting and fishing can not be ex- 
celled. North Park is Colorado's best hunting field. It is rugged in places, 
and vast. Its dimensions are seventy-five by fifty miles, with an elevation of 
9,000 feet above the sea-level. The jagged spires of the Rockies, clothed with 
perpetual snow, look down upon the park from an elevation of some 14,000 
feet. There are mineral springs, in stony basins, bubbling up ic}^ cool from an 
unknown depth. In autumn the larger game comes down to join the grouse, 
quail, squirrel, and rabbit. A summer in North Park can be very pleasantly 
spent. 

MIDDLE PARK. 

Middle Park is best reached from Denver, via the Colorado Central Branch 
of the Union Pacific Railway, through Georgetown or Sunset, and by stage 
from either place to the park. The road from Georgetown, however, is the 
best and most generally preferred. It is a notable ride by rail and stage. 

Middle Park is like North Park, only farger, with more and larger hills and 
wider dales and streams of grander sweep. The elevation is about 8,000 feet. 

From Georgetown to Hot Sulphur Springs is forty-six miles, just a day's 
journey. This is the scenic centre of the park. Never had nymphs of the 
wood a bathing place more charming. The water is hot or cold, clear or sul- 
phur charged. Lave in its waters, and the aches and pains which flesh is heir 
to rapidly disappear. The slopes of the Grand, Fraser, Blue, and Trouble- 
some Mountains abound in feathered and other game. Elk in particular are 
plenty. 

SOUTH PARK. 

South Park is best reached from Denver, via the South Park Branch of the 
Union Pacific to Kenosha, seventy-six miles from Denver, or to Como, eighty- 
eight miles from Denver. Both of these places are in the park, and there are 
stage lines to different points of interest. The park is about fifty miles in 
length and from ten to twenty miles in width, and its elevation is about 10,000 
feet above the level of the sea. South Park is in itself a magnificent domain. 
It is not so rugged as the other parks, being more of a level plateau. It is 
bordered on the east by a heavily timbered range some 2,000 feet above the 
park, while to the west the Snowy Range extends as far as the eye can reach. 
In this range, in plain view, are ^ number of the highest peaks in Colorado. 
One of the most noted mountains is the Mount of the Holy Cross, which can be 
seen from Robinson Station, a few miles from Leadville. This is one of 
Colorado's wonders. The elevation of this mountain is 14,176 feet above the 
sea-level. 




(42) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 43' 

Quoting from Mr. Ernest Ingersoll: " It is the Mount of the Holy Cross, 
bearing the sacred symbol in such heroic characters as dwarf all human graving, 
and set on the pinnacle of the world as though in sign of possession forever. 
The Jesuits went hand in hand with the Chevalier Dubois, proclaiming Christian 
Gospel in the Northern forests; the Puritan brought his Testament to New 
England; the Spanish banners of victory on the golden shores of the Pacific 
were upheld by the fiery zeal of the friars of San Francisco; the frozen Alaskan 
cliffs resounded to the chanting of the monks of St. Peter and St. Paul. On 
every side the virgin continent was taken in the name of Christ, and with all 
the 6clat of religious conquest. Yet from ages unnumbered before any of them,, 
centuries oblivious in the mystery of past time, the cross had been planted: 
here. As a prophecy during unmeasured generations, as a sign of glorious, 
fulfillment during nineteen centuries, from always and to eternity a reminder of 
our fealty to heaven, this divine seal has been set upon our proudest em- 
inence." 

This wonderful park can be seen from the line of the South Park Branch of 
the Union Pacific for a distance of nearly forty miles. The road just skirts the 
park, so that the view extends clear over it. South Park is soft in coloring, 
magnificent in its sweep of distance, clothed in summer's velvet, trimmed 
with the ermine of never-melting snow, shaded by promontory, and flecked 
by countless herds of cattle. It is one of nature's masterpieces, and to those 
who love the quiet of beauty rather than^ts ruggedness, nothing will be found, 
more impressive. 

ALPINE TUNNEL. 

Alpine Tunnel is on the line of the South Park Branch of the Union Pa- 
cific between St. Elmo and Gunnison. Leaving St. Elmo for Gunnison, the 
little town of Hancock is passed, and then a long, slanting tangent leads to a 
lofty hole in the mountain. On a little farther, and a plunge is taken into the 
blackness of the Alpine Tunnel, shooting through the rocks at a height of 
11,596 feet. Snow lies in perpetual banks on either side, but flowers bright 
and fragrant fill the frosty air with their perfume, and light it with their colors. 
Somewhere along the way the seasons clasp hands; for though it be summer 
in the valley, it is not summer here — only that these flowery tokens sweetly 
defy the nipping chill. Except in the South American Andes, this tunnel is 
the highest railroad point ever attained. The tourist enters from the Atlantic 
slope, and emerges upon the Pacific. The point of change is in the centre, and 
the impetus tells the moment it is crossed. The engine, just before goaded to 
its work, has now to be held in severe check by the engineer. Two drops of 
water, such as continually fall from the roof, are hanging but half an inch 
apart. Trembling in the cold and blackness, they loosen their tiny hold and 
patter down. They were neighbors; but, after hesitating a second, each starts 
with its fellows, and when they finally reach the ocean there is a span of a con- 




(44) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 45 

tinent between them. The actual length of the tunnel, aside from its ap- 
proaches, is 1,773 fsst. The 70,000 linear feet of California redwood lining 
was brought up on pack-horses over trails which had known the touch of no 
hoof save that of the mountain sheep, and where man himself had scarce dared 
to venture. Operations were carried on from both ends, and despite the cur- 
vature, when the respective gangs first caught the flash of the other's lamps, 
they were less than one inch out of the line the engineer had mapped out for 
them. The great expense was only warranted by the greatness of the country, 
which is now fastened to the outer world by this link of darkness. After pass- 
ing the tunnel on the way to Gunnison, the Palisades, Quartz Valley, San 
Juan, Uncompaghre, Hair Pin Curve, and Juniata Hot Springs are objects of 
interest which the tourist should see. 

BRECKENRIDGE, 
A town of some 2,000 population, with an elevation of 9,524 feet, is on the 
South Park Branch of the Union Pacific, on the road to Leadville. It is a 
mining town of considerable importance, andi a day may be spent here to good 
advantage. An object of interest to the tourist will be found in the museum of 
Prof. E. Carter. The professor's collection consists of carefully preserved 
specimens of beasts and birds found in Colorado only. Many of the species in 
this exhibit are now extinct. 

LEADVILLE. 

Leadville is best reached from Denver over the South Park Branch of the 
Union Pacific, and from there the distance is 151 miles. The altitude of Lead- 
ville is 10,185 ^^^^ above the level of the sea. The climate in winter is much 
milder than that of the Middle or Eastern States. The population is over 
20,000. Leadville is one of the largest mining camps in the world, and, within 
a decade, has grown from a mere cluster of miners' cabins to a cosmopolitan 
city possessing all the conveniences of an older place, with gas, electric lights, 
fine business blocks, elegant private residences, churches, banks, theatres, and 
good hotels. In fact, Leadville is one of the wonders of the nineteenth cent- 
ury. A visit to Colorado without a sight of Leadville is incomplete, as there is 
much to inspect in the noted mines and smelters, aside from the charming 
scenery. Evergreen Lakes are readily reached by a stage drive of six miles 
over a good road, and Twin Lakes are also accessible. 

GUNNISON. 

Gunnison is a busy little city of 3,000 souls. Its coal supplies are inexhaust- 
ible, while gold and silver underlie its hills. As the site for immense steel 
works, its future is assured. Already it boasts of gas and water works, and 
such a hotel as would be first class in any city. Gunnison is a good rendezvous 
for hunting and fishing parties. 



46 



WESTERN RESORTS 



Note. — For further information, see " Sights and Scenes in Colorado," issued 
by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and containing minute 
descriptions of points of interest and health resorts in Colorado. 

The Union Pacific Railway will sell at greatly reduced rates, during the 
summer season of 1890 a series of excursion tickets called "Alpine Tours," 
covering the principal points throughout "The Switzerland of America," using 
Denver as a central point. Stop-over privileges will be given within the limits 
of the tickets. The tickets will be good for thirty days from date of sale, and 
will be sold only to holders of first-class excursion tickets over the Union 
Pacific. 

The following grand tours are afforded : First Alpine Tour, comprises the 
South Park Branch of the Union Pacific Railway, through the wonders of 
Platte Canon, over Kenosha Hill, through South Park, via Como, to Alpine 
Tunnel, and the glorious scenery of " The American Alps " as far south as 
Gunnison. From Gunnison, the return trip is made to Como, and from Como 
to the magic city of Leadville, and from Leadville, via Como, back to Denver- 
Second Alpine Tour: From Denver up Clear Creek Caiion, via Golden and 
Forks Creek, to Idaho Springs, Georgetown, Silver Plume, Graymont and 
•Gray's Peak. Returning from Graymont to Idaho Springs, a detour of six miles 
is made to Central City by stage, and from there by rail down a branch of 
■Clear Creek Canon to Forks Creek, and thence back to Denver. 

Third Alpine Tour: From Denver to Boulder and Sunset, returning by way 
•of Ft. Collins and Greeley to Denver. 

The tours embrace in their extent the grandest scenery in Colorado, whether 
of mountain height, picturesque canon or beautiful valley. The points named 
are easy of access, and the train service of the Union Pacific unsurpassed for 
.punctuality and comfort. 



The Loop nebh Georgetown, Colo.. 

°~ ^"'^ > GCORGCTOWN 




J!^»^. :«^.>'aH» * Co. 



WYOMING POINTS. 




YOMING was organized as a Territory under an Act 

^_^ of Congress passed July 25, 1868, and derives its 

I ^^^P/ MI "* ^ name from the historical Wyoming Valley of Penn- 

k/JBM^,,^/ V sylvania, the scene of a barbarous massacre just 

after the American Revolution of 1776. The first 

actual settlements made were the trading posts of 

Forts Laramie and Bridger. The Territory has an 

area of 98,000 square miles ; it is 365 miles m length 

and 275 miles wide. Its mineral resources are very 

extensive ; stone, soda, and iron ore are abundant, and 

copper, lead, plumbago, and petroleum are also found within 

its borders, as well as coal of fine quality in many places. 

This Territory is as yet but sparsely settled, but in natural 
resources it is behind no section of America. The tourist who passes through 
it must not base his judgment on the view from the car window. Remember 
that Yellowstone National Park itself is in Wyoming. There are soda lakes 
near Taramie and Rawlins, immense Hot Springs near Camp Ground, and 
Warm Springs near Fort Steele. For the hunter it is an ideal hunting-ground, 
containing all manner of game, from cotton-tails to grizzly bears. 

CHEYENNE. 

Cheyenne, 6,050 feet in altitude, with a population of about 10,000, is one 
of the sprightliest and most prosperous cities in the entire West. It is well and 
compactly built, and for many years has been the centre of the cattle industry 
of the Northwest. Cheyenne has been a wild town, but is now a well regu- 
lated city with many fine stores and handsome residences. It constituted for a 
long time the outpost of civilization, becoming embodied in the legends of bor- 
der life, and is a place of rare historical interest. Five miles from the city is 
.Fort Russell, one of the largest military posts in the West. 

Cheyenne possesses all the modern improvements — gas, electric light, street- 
car service, and most of the luxuries of city life. This is the junction point of 
the two main stems of the Union Pacific — the Nebraska Main Line, 516 miles 

(47) 




Gardiner River Hot Springs, Yellowstone National Park— reached via the Union Pacific Ry. 



(48) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 49 

from Omaha, and the Kansas Main Line, 746 miles from Kansas City. This 
section is capable of producing great crops of corn and wheat, and, with the 
influx of the farming element, better results may be looked for. In the imme- 
diate vicinity of Cheyenne fire-clay is found in great abundance, and fine flint- 
sand is plentiful a few miles north. Two industries are thus secured in the 
matter of material — the manufacturing of pottery and glass. 

SHERMAN, 

A small station just west of Cheyenne, at an elevation of 8,247 ^eet, is the 
loftiest point in the transcontinental ride. From Sherman can be seen Long's 
Peak, nearly 200 miles away, and the Ames' Monument, a pyramidal granite 
structure sixty-five feet in height, with a base of sixty feet square, which was 
erected by the Union Pacific Railway to the memory of the Ames Brothers, to 
whom the completion of the Union Pacific was largely due. Hippopotamus 
Rock is one of the sights of the vicinity. The scenery is wild and rugged. 
Just beyond Sherman is Dale Creek bridge, one of the most remarkable sights 
of the overland trip. The structure is of iron, and stretches from bluff to bluff 
with a 650-foot span. The train passes over it just 127 feet above the creek, 
which looks like a mere rivulet below. Pike's Peak can be seen away off to 
the south, not less than 165 miles distant. The Red Buttes, an object of inter- 
est to the tourist, lie just beyond. 

LARAMIE. 

Laramie, often called the "Gem City of the Rockies," has an elevation of 
7,149 feet above sea-level, and a population of about 6,000. It is one of the 
principal towns on the main line of the Union Pacific between Council Bluffs 
and Ogden. It is situated on Big Laramie River, fifty-seven miles northwest 
of Cheyenne, and is an important market for wool. Its schools are good, and 
the University of Wyoming and the United States Penitentiary are located 
here. Just southeast of the town is located the Territorial fish hatchery, at 
Soldier Springs. This has a capacity of . hatching half a million trout at a 
time, and with these the streams and lakes of Wyoming are being rapidly 
stocked with the finest food-fish in the world. From Laramie there is a stage 
line, during the summer months, to North Park, Colorado. 

GREEN RIVER. 

There are many objects of interest in and around Green River, among 
which are the peculiar clay buttes by which it is surrounded. The coal mines 
of Rock Springs and Carbon, a few miles east of Green River, are well worth 
a visit from the tourist. The quality of the coal is excellent, and is used by 
the Union Pacific on its engines. It is at this point that the trains are made up 
for Portland, Oregon, although they do not leave the main line until Granger 
is reached, a few miles farther west. 




Cliff in Grand Canon, Yellowstore National Park— reached via the Union Pacific Ry. 



(50; 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 51 

EVANSTON. 

Evanston, 382 miles west of Laramie, is anotlier prosperous town, with a 
population of about 3,000 people, and an elevation of 6,759 f^et above the sea- 
level. There is in this locality much to interest the hunter, the tourist, and the 
scientist. It is not far to the resorts of large game. The formation of the 
country is a peculiar one, it being broken, distorted, and worn into the most 
fantastic shapes. There are strong indications of precious metals, and a great 
wealth of coal and building materials. Near Evanston are a series of cool 
mineral springs that gush forth from a stratum of limestone with an abundant 
flow. Evanston is also a military post. 

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 

The park occupies the northwestern corner of Wyoming, extending slightly 
into Idaho and Montana. It is readily reached from Pocatello, by the Utah & 
Northern Branch of the Union Pacific, via Beaver Caiion, Idaho, and thence 
by stage to Fire Hole Basin in the park. From various points along the line 
near Beaver Canon can be seen the Three Tetons, distant some hundred miles, 
overlooking the southwestern boundary of the Yellowstone Park, keeping, as 
it were, silent guard from their lofty heights over the national gift. 

There is, in the summer, a regular line of stages from Beaver Cafion to 
Fire Hole Basin in the park. The distance is about ninety miles and the drive 
a most exhilarating and delightful experience. Starting from Beaver Canon in 
the morning a spin of about twenty miles brings the traveler to Camas Mead- 
ows. These are level stretches inclosed by mountains and covered with brown 
grass. To the southeast the Three Tetons stand out majestically, their sharp 
peaks white with snow, and their sides deep blue. Snake River Crossing is 
reached at sunset. Resuming the journey in the morning, for the first few 
miles the road leads through the woods, and then enters a great circular basin, 
which is ten miles long by as many wide, and at its upper end is Henry's Lake, 
a bright blue body of water, filled with fish. Out of the basin the road toils 
up the steep slopes of Tyghee Pass, onto the "Continental Divide," and from 
the summit the tourist beholds a lovely panorama. To the east one looks into 
the Madison Valley; to the west the wagon-road can be traced over which the 
traveler has come. The ashes and maples on the mountain side are glowing in 
gold and crimson, the grass darkly brown, and the lake below a luminous blue. 
From the pass downward the road plunges into a dense forest, which hides the 
outlines of the valley. Manly's Cabin is reached at noon. From here the 
route is across the Madison River and down the valley, keeping the river in 
sight tor the most part of the way. Half way across is the western boundary 
line of the park, and a small military camp has been established here. The main 
duty consists in protecting the game within the park. There is a high, narrow 




(52) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 53 

ridge of land dividing the western portion of the park from Lower Geyser Basin, 
and from the top of this divide the vast area of the park is discerned. Fire Hole 
Basin is reached in the evening, and the tourist safely landed in the very heart 
of this marvelous region — that grand national gift to the people *ior their 
amusement and instruction — a lordly domain for themselves and their children. 

When Yellowstone National Park was set aside to be forever the grand tour- 
ist resort of the people, and their common property, few had an idea of the 
endless variety and stupendous grandeur of the features embraced in this tract 
of country, fifty-five by sixty-five miles. The park embraces an area of 3,000 
square miles, has an average elevation of about 8,000 feet above sea-level, and 
is encircled by magnificent mountain ranges. 

From Fire Hole Basin there are seen pillars of clouds showing where the 
springs and geysers are. Geyser Meadows are two miles away. Here are several 
geysers which throw their torrents twenty-five feet, or higher. Dome Spring is 
at the top of a calcareous deposit of livid colors, and some of its neighbors are 
similarly situated. "■ Queen Laundry " is a clear spring, whose waters will almost 
instantly cleanse even the dirtiest saddle-blanket, and which finally drop into a 
basin at delightful bathing temperature. Fairy Creek Falls jump 250 feet over 
an adjacent cliff. With these spouting, leaping novelties all about, Midway 
Geyser Basin is reached, five miles from Fire Hole Basin. Here are the grand- 
est hot springs in the world. The overflow of hot water comes from the Great 
Spring, the equal of which no human eye ever saw. This aperture is 250 feet 
across, and is walled in by sides thirty feet high. The surface is in constant 
turmoil, and the rising steam scalds the incautious. A glance into the gulf 
causes a shudder. Only a few yards away there is a cold fount twenty-five feet 
in diameter, filling an elaborately chased basin of unknown depth. Near by are 
the Chalk Vats, bubbling and spurting their mushy compound, and throwing out 
splashes of it which vary from a snowy white to a bright pink. 

Upper Geyser Basin, eight miles from Fire Hole Basin, is the seat of the ten 
largest geysers ever discovered, beside which those of Iceland are trifling. 
There is a charming grove within astone's-throw of Castle Geyser, which begins 
to give vent to its pent up force in muttered thunder, and then its flood shoots 
over the cone, first a spurt, then a stream ; then, with a shaking of the earth 
and the roar of a tempest, a river bounds upward like a rocket, submerging broad 
acres with the descent of its boiling flood. Half a mile away, " Old Faithful " 
spouts every fifty-seven minutes, throwing a stream several feet in diameter to 
a height of 200 feet. Across the river is the "Bee Hive," whose fountain flies 
200 feet in the air, forming a crystal arch beautiful in the sunlight. " The 
Giantess" has a crater eighteen by fifteen feet in diameter, belching forth such 
a volume as doubles the amount of water in Fire Hole River, here twenty feet 
in width and a foot deep. There is a thrill, a groan, a tremor, dense volumes 
of steam, a rolling and clashing of unseen waves, and a deafening boom as an 
immense body of water is hurled up toward the sky, its extreme jet reaching 250 
feet above the earth. 




Approach to Yellowstone National Park — reached via the Union Pacific Ry. 

1. Ford of the Snake River. 2. Spearing Trout, Snake River. 

3. Hunter's Cabin, Henry's Lalce. 



(54) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 55 

Next is Gibbon Falls, where, in a wildwood tangle, they drop 80 feet ; then 
Gibbon Cafion, with its sides 2,000 feet high, from which the tourist emerges 
into Elk Park. In the defile is heard a boom, boom, boom, that never ceases, 
and from an orifice in the rock comes steam in regular puffs and similar in 
sound to the exhaust of a powerful engine. Monument Geyser and the famous 
Paint Pots, with their various and vivid hues, are near by. Norris Geyser Basin 
is the next in order. It is the oldest basin in the park, the hottest and most 
dangerous for pedestrians. To the right is Mammoth Geyser; when at rest a 
peep may be had into its gaping throat, and its blood-chilling gurgle can be 
distinctly heard. 

Yellowstone Lake is twenty-five miles from Fire Hole Basin. The altitude 
of this lake is 7,788 feet. It is thirty miles long and ten to fifteen wide, with 
numerous islands. 

The Natural Bridge of Rock spans Bridge Creek at a height of forty feet 
and affords carriage room. Down the river twelve miles is Devil's Den; east 
of this is Mud Volcano. Brimstone Mountain is three miles below. Here pure 
sulphur can be shoveled up by the wagon-load. 

The Upper Falls of the Yellowstone are reached by an easy trail. Here the 
rapids narrow to less than 100 feet, and the overhanging rocks press so closely 
together that a bridge could be easily thrown across. The water eddies and 
cascades, and then flies downward 397 feet, while the grandest caiion of the 
world stretches away 1,500 feet below. The mind can not grasp Grand Canon; 
words can not paint it; it glows with a life of its own, and with colors of its own, 
or born of the sun and the spray. Tower Falls and Canon are twenty miles 
from this charming spot. Specimen Mountain is forty miles from Fire Hole 
Basin. It is covered with agate, once wood, stone snakes and fishes, with crys- 
tals and petrified roots, while the view from the summit is sublime. 

And this is Yellowstone National Park. Words can not convey a proper 
realization of its grandeur and magnificence. Nowhere else in America are 
there such superb views as the park affords; nowhere else such an abundance 
of finny game; nowhere else such myriads of wild fowl; nowhere else such a 
delightful camping place or more perfect weather. 

This route, with Fire Hole Basin as a centre, brings the tourist near the 
leading attractions. 

From Fire Hole Basin — The Falls of the Madison are six miles; Foot of 
Madison Canon, eighteen miles; Falls and Canon of the Gibbon, ten miles; 
Monument Geyser, eighteen miles; Midway Geyser Basin, or " Hell's Half 
Acre," three miles; Upper Geyser Basin, eight miles; Yellowstone Lake, twenty- 
five miles; Yellowstone Falls and Caiion, thirty-two -miles. 

Remember this route, via the Union Pacific from either Council Bluffs or 
Kansas Cit}^ via Cheyenne, Green River, Granger, and Pocatello, to Beaver 
Canon, and thence via stage to Fire Hole Basin. 




"he Geysers, Yellowstone National Park — reached via the Union Pacific Rv 



(56) 




IDAHO POINTS. 



AHO is an Indian word, meaning " Gem of the Mountains." The Territory 
is imperial in extent, its area of 84,000 square miles being greater than 
that of New York, New Jersey, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire com- 
^^ bined. It is 410 miles long, and its extreme width in the south is 257 
:v miles. The white population prior to 1850 comprised mostly trappers and 
^ missionaries, its actual settlement beginning only in i860 with the discovery 
of gold. It was organized as a Territory March 3, 1863. The mineral fields of 
Idaho are among the largest in the world, and nestling among its mountain ranges 
are countless valleys, affording a vast area of fertile agricultural and grazing lands. 



POCATELLO. 

This town is on the Portland Main Line of the Union Pacific, at the 
junction with the Utah and Northern Branch, 153 miles from Ogden, Utah, and 
244 miles from Green River. Its elevation is 4,466 feet above sea-level. The 
Utah & Northern Branch stretches off north to Beaver Caiion (where stage 
connection from the Yellowstone National Park is made), Butte, Garrison, and 
Helena, and to Ogden, Salt Lake City, and Garfield Beach, on the shores of 
Great Salt Lake. Pocatello is a lively little town of some 2,000 people, and 
growing rapidly. Here the division headquarters and machine shops of the 
railway are located. The climate is cool and bracing. The country is broken 
and rugged, but there are pleasant, fertile valleys, and the Fort Hall Indian 
Reservation, in which Pocatello is situated, is a beautiful stretch of country. 

The American Falls are located on the Snake River, which is crossed by the 
Union Pacific at American Falls Station. 

The Union Pacific Railway crosses the Snake River on a bridge more 
than six hundred feet in length, and carried directly over the American Falls, 
so that the traveler can look full upon the rushing waters, as, white with foam, 
they roar upon the rocks and disappear beneath the arches of the bridge. 

(57) 




(58) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 59 

These falls are described by Irving in his " Bonneville." The banks of the river, 
for a considerable distance both above and below the falls, have a volcanic 
character; masses of basaltic rock are piled one upon another; the water makes 
its way through their broken chasms, boiling through narrow channels or pitch- 
ing in beautiful cascades over ridges of basaltic columns. Captain Bonneville 
in his route missed the stupendous falls, now called the Great Shoshone, but 
these excited his admiration, and were it not for the marvels of that greater 
neighbor, these would still be the feature of all the country round. Looking 
northward, the Three Buttss of Lost River are seen lifted above the level 
expanse, and, somewhat to the westward, the steep, jagged outlines of the lofty 
Saw Tooth Range. Below the falls the banks are steep, but with an occasional 
alcove of grassy meadowy a growth of cedars covering the tops, not large, but 
very venerable in years and appearance. Trout fishing is remarkably good both 
up and down the stream. Just below the bridge on the west side, a large spring 
gushes forth, and after forming a broad, shallow pool, winds off into the river. 
When the river waters are high, the up-coming trout find their way into this 
pool, which is, therefore, a splendid place to cast the fly. 

From Shoshone Station, on the main line of the Union Pacific, there is a 
branch running to Bellevue, Hailey, and Ketchum, the principal towns of the 
famous Wood River Region. It will pay the tourist to make a digression from 
the through line to Portland, in order to visit this section, which possesses one 
of the richest silver mines m the world, and is as yet but little explored. It 
has a fine climate and plenty of game. 

Shoshone Station has a population of 2,000, and fair accommodations for 
the traveler. From this point Great Shoshone Falls are reached by a pleasant 
stage ride of twenty-five miles. It must be remembered that these falls are the 
wonder of the North American Continent. 

HAILEY. 

Hailey is situated just where Quigley and Croy Gulches unite with the Wood 
River Valley, the junction affording a fine view in four directions, embracing 
well-cultivated ranches, and ending with the foothills. The climate is mild 
and even, and the roads stretching away on all sides are perfect. The mines 
at Hailey possess much of interest to the tourist, and a good hotel furnishes 
accommodations. 

One and a half miles from Hailey are the famous Hailey Hot Springs. 
Here will be found an elegant hotel, strictly first-class in every particular, 
and fitted with all modern appliances and conveniences. The ride or walk 
thither is very pleasant, leading through a picturesque little valley, and the 
location, in a lovely glen, in sight of several rich mines, is very pleasing. 
Large volumes of water, of a temperature of 150? and containing sulphate 
of soda, iron, magnesia, sulphur, and other desirable ingredients, are found 
in scores of springs. Commodious swimming-baths are provided. Many 



60 WESTERN RESORTS 

patients have gone to these with chronic cases, beheved to be hopeless, of 
neuralgia, paralysis, dyspepsia, inflammatory or mercurial rheumatism, and 
other complaints for which the Arkansas springs are considered a specific, and 
after a few months of bathing and drinking have left completel}' restored. The 
baths are also very popular with those in good health, thousands visiting them 
annually for the delightfully exhilarating effects of a plunge. 

The largest hospital of Alturas County is near. A two-mile drive from Hailey 
takes the tourist to the beautiful valley of Croy Gulch, with an altitude of about 
5,300 feet. The Bolton Hot Springs, five miles from Hailey, are also very 
efificacious in relieving and curing rheumatism. Bellevue, five miles south of 
Hailey, is a pretty little town. 

KETCHUM. 

Ketchum, a rapidly growing town of about 2,000 to 3,000 people, lies 
thirteen miles north of Hailey, and is beautifully situated at the head of the 
Wood River Valley. At this point, Wood River is as clear as crystal, and rich 
in the finest of mountain trout. The vicinity surrounding affords good hunting, 
and elk and bear abound. The mines round about Ketchum are large, and 
will well repay inspection. The Guyer Hot Springs, two miles by stage from 
Ketchum, are noted for their medicinal waters, and are of high repute through- 
out the neighboring country. There are many objects of interest, both for the 
tourist and pleasure seeker, in and about Ketchum. The scenery is beautiful, 
and the climate all that could be desired. 

BOISE CITY. 

From Shoshone Station, passing westward, the next town of importance is 
Boise City, which is now reached from Nampa on the Union Pacific, via the 
Idaho Central. Boise City is nineteen miles from Nampa, and has an elevation 
of 2,885 feet. It has a population of about 6,000, has good hotel accommoda- 
tions, and is a point of interest to the tourist. Boise City is the largest, 
wealthiest and most attractive town in the Territory, with good schools and 
pleasant homes. It is in the centre of the Idaho fruit belt. A great many 
medicinal springs are to be found within the immediate neighborhood of Boise 
City, easy of access, and possessing many charms both of water and scenery. 

GUYER HOT SPRINGS. 

This romantic little mountain resort is situated about two miles from the 
town of Ketchum, Idaho, on the Wood River branch of the Union Pacific, 
seventy miles from Shoshone. Regular hacks run to and fro from the 
springs, in connection with the branch trains. The springs are comparatively 
unknown outside of Idaho, but are destined to become famous for the well- 
known medicinal qualities of the w^aters and the great natural beauty of the 
place. The springs, about fifteen in number, gush out from the mountain side 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. fil 

intensely hot, and are conveyed a short distance by pipe to the bath-house, 
where there are two large plunge baths and quite a number of single rooms 
with tubs. The waters are good for all nervous complaints, rheumatism, skin 
and blood affections. This place is much resorted to by tourists and invalids. 
It is a beautiful, quiet mountain retreat. The accommodations for guests are 
first class, and in addition to the hotel, there are bath-houses, bowling-alleys, 
croquet and tennis grounds, swings, band-stands, and dancing-platforms — every- 
thing, in short, to make a visit pleasant. 

SODA SPRINGS. 

The Soda Springs are located on the main line of the Union Pacific, and are 
within a stone's-throw of the railway station bearing the same name. They are 
in Bingham County, Idaho, sixty-eight miles east of Pocatello, in the depres- 
sion of the Wahsatch Mountains. Their altitude is 5,780 feet above sea-level, 
with snowy mountains perpetually in sight. Ages ago the Indians sought these 
'springs because they discovered that the waters were a sovereign remedy for 
many of their ills, and that something about the air and the water gave them, 
at least in part, what Ponce de Leon dreamed of finding, a fountain of water 
which had within it the elements to insure to those who drank the boon of 
eternal youth. So through the centuries the Indians held their treasure, until 
civilization claimed them for her own. 

The waters of these springs are charged with bicarbonate of soda, bicar- 
bonate of potash, chloride of sodium and potash, sulphate of magnesia, bicar- 
bonate of magnesia, lime, alumina, silica, carbonate of iron, free carbonic acid 
gas, and a multitude of other ingredients. They are a specific for the cure of 
all manner of indigestion, kidney troubles, even up to advanced symptoms of 
Bright's disease, and diabetes, dropsy, and a thousand kindred ills. 

Of the tens of millions of people who inhabit the United States east of the 
Rocky Mountains, probably not one in a thousand has ever heard of Soda 
Springs, Idaho. Probably not one in ten thousand has any idea of their rare 
medicinal properties, and not one in a hundred thousand realizes that in com- 
parison with them all the famous spas of the Old World sink into insignificance. 
They take away all appetite for spirituous liquors, and the water is the most 
pleasant for table use that has ever been found. 

Fremont's account of the excellence of these springs will be found in his 
official reports. In 1850, Mormon explorers traversing the country reported 
the marvels of the springs, and later on, the chiefs of the Mormon Church vis- 
ited the place, and Brigham Young solemnly blessed them. 

But, despite the virtues of the water, backed by the blessing of Brigham 
Young, Soda Springs remained an out-of-the-way place, little frequented and 
little known, until the Union Pacific was built from Green River and Granger^ 
to Portland, Oregon, which line runs directly by the springs, where now Pullman 




it Shoshone Falls, Idaho — reached via the Union Pacific Ry. 



(62) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 63 

palace cars land passengers from all portions of the country. These springs 
are within fifty hours' ride of Council Bluffs or Kansas City. One of the chief 
inducements which decided the company to build the line was to open these 
springs to the public. Last year the Soda Springs Company was organized 
and began bottling the water, which, by a new process, retains all its pleasant 
and medicinal properties; and this water is now on sale throughout the East 
and West. 

The climate of the springs is as wonderful as the water. The topography 
of the country is interesting; the springs cover a large area, and those who 
desire to, can spend the summer there camping out. The water, the air, and 
the sky are free, and their virtues, like those of the Master, go out to all who 
are able to touch so much as the hem of their robes. The days in the summer 
are warm, while the nights are invariably cool enough for blankets. The sur- 
rounding country abounds in fine hunting, while Blackfoot Creek, ten miles 
away, reached by a natural road, supplies the best trout fishing in the West. 
These Springs are readily reached from the east and west by the Union 
Pacific, and from the north and south by the Utah & Northern branch of the 
Union Pacific, and they will soon be recognized as one of the most wonderful 
sanitariums in the world. Good accommodations can be had at the Idanha 
Hotel, which is managed by the Pacific Hotel Company. Tourists and 
health and pleasure seekers will be amply repaid by a visit to these wonderful 
springs. 

THE GREAT SHOSHONE FALLS OF THE SNAKE RIVER. 

These falls are readily reached by a stage ride of twenty-five miles from 
Shoshone Station, on the Union Pacific. The tourist takes this ride in a stage, 
or by private conveyance. The road is good and across a desert that is no 
pretense. No streams or springs gladden its barren surface, broken only 
by grassless knolls and blocks of lava, over which the horses fairly fly, the 
downward impulse of one hill carrying them up the next. The question is 
often asked, where all of the lava over which the stage rolls comes from, as there 
are no volcanic mountains for hundreds of miles. The whole area was 
once a simmering mass, that being submerged, resulted in many curious 
fractures, into some of which an article dropped will go clinking from side to 
side until the noise dies away, apparently without bottom being reached. 
It is in such a crevice that the Lost River disappears never to be seen again. 
The Snake River is indicated by no sign, when all at once from the edge 
of a vast chasm, smooth between stupendous walls, it is seen flowing 
hundreds of feet below. What power has wrought this sculpture ? It does not 
seem possible that water, even in untold ages, could work into the lava and 
granite, leaving the pillared heights to testify to its work. The roar of the falls 
is heard, and, picking its way down the slope, the four-in-hand pauses within 
earshot of the solemn music, and the baptism of the spray. Having arrived 




(64) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 65 

in the evening, it is well to rest in a luxurious bed and await the revelation of 
sunlight. It comes like a gleam of intelligence, passing- over the mighty canon. 
The walls, rising hundreds of feet, catch the glint before it reaches the bottom 
of the gorge and the river, and from height to height the beams of the morning 
flash signals. There are no mountains by which to judge altitude^ but a drop 
out of the world seems to be taken. The overwhelming massiveness of the 
gorge baffles all eye-measure of the stupendous rift, out of which a climb would 
be impossible. The close-pressing lava towers are as sombre as a prison-house. 
After breakfast a boat is found in the little willow-fringed bayou and launched 
upon the open river — which here broadens to a lake — but silent, stern, and 
powerful the current sweeps along. That cloud of steam ahead rises from Sho- 
shone Falls, and that ceaseless clamor is the great voice of its waters. There 
is an easy trail upon landing, which leads through a border of fir, and a rest is 
taken upon Point Lookout. Just then the sun breaks forth in renewed radiance, 
and from cliff to cliff there springs a bow as perfect as was ever made glorious 
in the heavens — an arc of beauteous coloring against a background of glitter- 
ing, beadlike foam tumbling in crystal chaos 220 feet, the circling halo losing its 
bases in the turmoil and the mist, with an unbroken crescent above. The rock 
foothold quivers, a gentle bath dews the uncovered head, while the spirit soars 
as lofty as the illumined spray. There is a spell like that of a nameless melody 
in the awfulness of the irresistible plunge. Niagara is different, but not supe- 
rior. Where Niagara is calm, Shoshone is tempestuous; where Niagara pours 
over evenly, Shoshone bursts into a million wild jets, each with a diamond's 
lustre; where Niagara is environed by common-place landscapes, Shoshone 
dashes from between rocks nearly a thousand feet high, stately and time-stained, 
and its surroundings are weird and supernatural. Seven distinct channels are 
to be seen forming a number of brilliant falls, before the final grand reunion 
of the waters, and so united, over they go, to be lost in the swirl of a terrible 
surge, to riot in an infuriate whirlpool, and to rise soft as the feather of a bird 
and be touched by the sun to splendor. 

Locomotive Cave is one of the wonders of the place. It is reached after 
leaving the vaulted dome and by climbing along the face of the wall near the 
water. Stepping inside, one hears a sound similar to the exhaust of a monster 
locomotive. The waves of sound are quick and powerful, and the sensation is 
as if one were standing by the side of a large locomotive whose wheels were 
slipping on the rails. 

Only a stone's-throw from the shore. Eagle Rock has never been touched 
by man, but on the topmost crest an eagle hovers with wrathful mien over her 
young. Standing face toward the falls, on the extreme left is Pulpit Rock; 
next. Prospect Point. Cedar, Walgamotts, and Bells are a chain of islands 
across, the divided flow of the Snake coming between them. Prospect Point 
and Pulpit Rock overlook Bridal Veil, one of the brightest of the smaller falls. 
The former is immediately in front of the site selected for the large hotel. 
6 



66 WESTERN RESORTS 

Lover's Leap affords one of the finest views. Facing it are the lesser falls and 
the unbroken front of the great one — 950 feet from shore to shore — unbroken 
because no rocks mar its contour, and yet broken, for it is not a glassy sheet of 
water that makes the leap ending in glistening foaming spray. Looking aghast 
you cling to the withered pine marking the spot where the lovers fell 750 feet 
in front of the maddened, malignant torrent, devilish in the delight it takes in 
sweeping with a rush which nothing but the eternal rocks could withstand, torn 
and tossed into billions of sparkling threads with a constant play of prismatic 
hues changing quicker than thought, half enveloped in its own mist, and then 
the wind carrying that away, leaving it unobscured, in sublimity unmatched 
and indescribable. A long, winding trail leads past the Natural Bridge and 
the Devil's Flues, the last apertures reaching down to the level of the stream 
below the falls. Their origin is a mystery. The trail is half hidden in luxuriant 
shrubbery, the shallow soil being constantly drenched with spray. It is no 
place for the lame, halt, or blind. Each eye must be open, each hand and foot 
alert for a hold. The scramble is for 850 feet. From below, there is such a 
change from the point of inspection, that the treat is entirely new. Here the 
opposite wall, black and frowning, is over a thousand feet sheer. A thousand 
feet means more in such a place than two thousand among the mountains. The 
vaulted dome is near by. It is made by the throwing together of huge rocks. 
It is a conical chamber 175 feet in height, and with an atmosphere cooling as a 
draught from the fountain. From the top there is a steady sprinkle of 
water — a shower-bath which, falling year after year, has worn a hollow, known 
as Diana's Bath. Surely a goddess could covet no place more charming. The 
water fills this to overflowing. It is nearly ice cold. Drink it freely. It is 
nectar. The sides of the chamber are wet, and green with moss. High out 
of reach are brilliant festoons of flowers growing from the rock. It is an 
ideal place to lunch, and in itself a wonder. 

It is now time to go back, re-cross the river, or row up to Twin Falls. The 
two sets of falls are three miles apart. A portion of the way a boat may be 
used and a trail completes the journey. There is some good, honest perspira- 
tion attendant upon the row to Clark's Point, beyond the Devil's Corral. The 
latter is an inclosure with only one entrance. Clark's Point is a huge fortress 
jutting into the stream. It is a curious place to be, in that long defile, and it 
is not designed for a thoroughfare. The ride seems short, but the walk does 
not. An acute ear detects a suppressed roar coming jointly from above and 
below. The waves of sound from Great Shoshone and from the Upper Falls 
meet and mingle somewhere in the gorge. Finally the falls are reached, and 
standing above them is recompense enough for all the toil. The view along 
the canon in itself is worth a journey of miles. There is a frightful snakiness 
about the river, an appalling strength as it enters the rapids, and a glorying in 
this strength as it leaps below. The stream is divided by a tower of solid rock 
into two channels, across which an easy toss would carry a stone. All that 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 67 

mass of water, which three miles farther is so magnificent with its frontage of 
950 feet, is here condensed into these narrow spaces, descending through them 
180 feet, so that even these falls, secondary though they be to Great Shoshone 
Falls, are higher than the far-famed Niagara. A constant vapor arises from-them, 
and when the air is still, bedews the rocks far higher than the upper level. Yet 
for all its great height, it is the superior height of the rocks which makes the 
greatest impression. At the crest of the walls there is no grade to correspond 
with the sinking of the river, so that the chasm gets deeper and deeper, until, 
beyond the Great Shoshone Falls, it is stupendous. 

The float down the river is something to be always remembered. To sit and 
calmly glide, to dip in the cool stream and drink, to watch the serried columns 
of lava pass in review, and listen to the song of the eddies, is a pleasure. Night 
is coming on, and the shadows begin to stretch darkly across. The gloom 
makes the rocks look more weird and supernatural, and the motion and the 
twilight belong to the realm of the mystic. The cailon is a wonderful whisper- 
ing gallery. A whistle awakes a thousand echoes, and to a shout, each castle 
perched above gives back a loud response. The notes of a cornet are taken up 
and repeated fainter and more faint till they die away in melody. And so 
challenging the rocks to reply to a tune, and every challenge being accepted 
and hurled back with treble force, the notes are again repeated far away, long 
after the air is finished. 

After supper a walk is taken to Prospect Point, and, as if in greeting, just 
then the mist changes from its billowy white to a rainbow mass, which the lunar 
rays make softly brilliant, and which seem to fade away in farewell as the moon 
is lost under shifting clouds. 

No one can inspect this place thoroughly in a day. The day is simply 
a hint. The Great Shoshone Falls demand a day, the Upper Falls another, and 
the canon still another. 

As yet the surroundings of the falls are as wild and untouched as when the 
pilgrims for Astoria, wandering through the wilderness years ago, marveled at 
their great beauty. And such is the Great Shoshone Falls, one of the greatest 
points of interest in the world. 

Note. — For further information, see " Sights and Scenes in Idaho and 
Montana," issued by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and 
containing minute descriptions of points of interest and health resorts in those 
Territories. 

The Union Pacific Railway will sell, at greatly reduced rates during the 
summer season of 1890, a series of excursion tickets called " Shoshone Tours," 
covering the principal points in Idaho and Montana, using Pocatello and 
Shoshone, Idaho, as central points. Stop-over privileges will be given within 
the limitation of the tickets. Tickets will be good thirty days from date 
of sale. 




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FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 



69 



First Shoshone Tour: From Pocatello to Great Shoshone Falls and return 
to Shoshone Station; from Shoshone Station to Hailey and Guyer Hot Springs 
and return to Shoshone Station, and from Shoshone Station to Boise City and 
return to Pocatello. 

Second Shoshone Tour: From Pocatello to Soda Springs and return. 

Third Shoshone Tour: From Pocatello, via Beaver Canon, to Yellowstone 
National Park and return. 

Fourth Shoshone Tour: From Pocatello to Butte and Helena and return. 





m 




/ MONTANA POINTS. 



|ONTANA is an Indian word — " Tay-a-be-shock-up" — and 
means "Country of the Mountains." It is probable 
that the Sieur de la Verendrye and his brother were 
the first visitors to these rocky fastnesses in 1743-4. This 
region was included in the Louisiana purchase of 1803, 
and the famous Lewis and Clarke expedition explored 
the country in 1804-5. Gold was discovered in what is 
now Deer Lodge County in 1852, and again in 1856 and 
1858, but it was not until July,i862, that the Bannack mines 
were discovered. In 1863 gold was found at Alder Gulch, 80 miles east of 
Bannack, and here Virginia City, the first Territorial capital, sprang into exist- 
ence. Alder Gulch has yielded over sixty million dollars of gold since discov- 
ery. Gold was found where the beautiful city of Helena now stands. Montana 
was formerly a part of Idaho, and was organized as a Territory in 1864; she 
received 2,000 square miles from Dakota in 1870. Her area is 146,000 square 
miles. The Territory extends from east to west about 550 miles, and 275 miles 
from north to south. Montana possesses an immense area of very rich agri- 
cultural land and stands fifth in the production of gold and silver. 

Leaving Green River and Granger on the main line of the Union Pacific, 
through Soda Springs and Pocatello, and thence from Pocatello north 
on the Utah & Northern branch, and passing the Three Tetons and 
Beaver Caiion, where connection by stage lines is made for the Yellow- 
stone National Park, a few miles bring the tourist within the confines of 
Montana. Passing the water line, Red Rock Station is the first point of inter- 
est. Here the scenery is wild, and there is a peculiar formation of points of 
jagged land, the highest of which is Red Rock, which juts up some 500 feet, 
and may be seen in either direction for twenty miles. Then through Dillon, 
which is in Beaver Head Valley, and one of the thriving towns of Montana, 
Silver Bow is reached. From Silver Bow the Montana Union Railroad, an 
auxiliary line of the Union Pacific, branches off, one spur running to Butte 
City, another through Stuart to Garrison, where connection is made for Helena, 
and still another from Stuart to Anaconda. 

(71) 



WESTERN RESORTS 



BUTTE CITY. 



Butte City, with an elevation of 5,482 feet above sea-level, is the largest 
mining camp in the world, not even excepting Leadville, Colorado. Standing 
next to the Lake Superior region in the production of copper, and first of all 
in silver output, attention has been drawn to it from all over the world. Butte 
has a population of some 25,000 people, is the possessor of fine hotels and all 
the- modern conveniences of a large city. It is the greatest silver producer, not 
alone of Montana, but of the Rocky Mountain mineral belt. It is situated on 
a gentle slope and is surrounded by rugged and beautiful scenery, and takes its 
name from the point known as the Big Butte, located just north of the original 
town. It is ten miles to the main range of the Rockies, but towering foothills 
have formed the basin where Butte flourishes. From Butte City, points of inter- 
est in Silver Bow, Jefferson, and Madison Counties can be readily reached. Butte 
is a healthy place, blessed with a pure and bracing atmosphere, and presents 
many attractions to the tourist and health and pleasure seeker. 

ANACONDA. 

From Stuart, the Montana Union has a branch to Anaconda. Here is lo- 
cated the largest smelting works in the world, the consumption of coal alone 
for these works being 300 tons per day, and the yield from copper ore is enor- 
mous. From Stuart, the pretty little town of Deer Lodge is but a short distance, 
and is a point of much interest. 

GARRISON. 

Further on is Garrison, a place of note, being the junction of the Montana 
Union Division of the Union Pacific with the Northern Pacific, and formerly the 
transfer point of passengers going to Portland. But since the opening of the 
Union Pacific, the route is via Huntington, which is the direct line to Port- 
land; the Garrison Route is used for Helena business. 

HELENA. 

Helena is the capital of Montana, with an elevation of 3,930 feet above the 
sea-level, and a population of about 20,000. Helena is also a mining camp, and is 
reached over the Union Pacific via Garrison or Butte. It is beautifully situated; 
Fort Benton to the north, Bozeman to the east, Virginia City to the south, with 
Butte City and Deer Lodge to the west. It has fine hotels, clubs, banks, news- 
papers, street cars — in fact everything that contributes to city life. There are 
many attractions for the tourist. Mt. Helena is to be climbed, and the view 
from its summit well repays the labor. There are pleasant drives, one of the 
most popular leading to Hot Springs, four miles away. Prickly Pear Canon pre- 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 



73 



sents attractive features. " The Gate of the Mountains," where the Missouri 
River bursts through, infinitely surpasses the Hudson Highlands, and for loo 
miles down-stream there is a succession of pillared hills, castles, eroded 
stone, caves, and of falls. East of Helena are the White Sulphur Springs, 
Hell Gate Cafion, and the Devil's Watch Tower. Northwest is Flat Lake, ten 
by twenty-eight miles, and the Twin Cascades, Elizabeth and Alice, falling 
2,000 feet. 

Note.— For further information see " Sights and Scenes in Idaho and MoA- 
tana," issued by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and containing 
minute descriptions of points of interest and health resorts in those Territories. 





(74) 




OREGON POINTS. 




[HE name Oregon is derived from a Spanish word which 
means "wild thyme," and probably arose from the 
■^Z / abundance of that herb which the early explorers found 
^^^jii^ there. Oregon seems to have been first visited by a 
f Spanish navigator in 1775; Captain Cook coasted down 

its shores in 1778; but the Columbia River is believed to 
' have been first made known to the civilized world by Cap- 
tain Gray, of Boston, Mass., in 1791. He sighted the river 
late that year, and in May, 1792, he ventured up the stream 
a few miles and named it after his ship — the Columbia. From 
this time onward it was visited by fur-traders, both British and 
American, and the Lewis and Clarke exploring party spent the 
winter of 1805-6 at the mouth of the Columbia. The English and American 
fur-traders held joint possession of Oregon and fought unceasingly until 
the treaty of 1846 gave to the United States all the country below 40 de- 
grees north. The Fur Company's post at Astoria was founded in 1811. The 
tide of immigration finally set in during 1839. Oregon was organized as a 
Territory in 1848, and admitted to the Union as a State, February 14, 1859. 
The State has an area of nearly 96,000 square miles, and is 350 miles long by 
275 wide; it has 50,000,000 acres of arable and grazing land and 10,000,000 
acres of forest. 

Oregon has nothing to lose by a close inspection of what she has to offer in 
the way of climate, productions, scenery, and pleasure resorts. Within its im- 
mense area of 96,000 square miles all that is desirable in the make-up of a great 
and prosperous State is to be found, and its wonderful resources augur well for 
its future. 

From Nampa, Idaho, the Union Pacific passes through the towns of 
Caldwell, Payette, Ontario, and Weiser, skirts along the boundary line of 
Idaho and Oregon, following the Snake River, which it crosses and re-crosses, 
first in Idaho, then in Oregon, until Huntington, just within Oregon, is readied, 

(75) 




Oneonta Gorge, Columbia River, Oregon— on the Union Pacific Ry. 



(76) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 77 

where it starts directly across the State, Baker City, Union, and La Grande, 
important towns beyond Huntington, are passed. Just beyond La Grande, in 
the Grande Ronde Valley, comes a passage in the Blue Mountains, replete with 
the dark beauty of the pine and the rippling brook and waterfall. 

THE GRANDE RONDE VALLEY. 

The Grande Ronde Valley presents many points of interest to the tourist, 
and a sojourn here will amply repay the visitor. It is one of the most fertile 
valleys of the Pacific slope. The Grande Ronde River flows in from the Blue 
Mountains, and follows an extremely crooked channel through the valley, 
and here fish and game abound. Mountain streams and copious springs 
break forth on every hand, converting portions of the valley into a beautiful 
meadow. 

There are lovely vistas of scenery all along the line. The tourist will note 
the beautiful outline of the mountains around Baker Gity; the Swiss-like valley 
of Powder River; the clear and vital air of the Blue Mountains, a range which 
closely resembles the Alleghanies, and the exquisite vievts along Meacham 
Creek and the Umatilla River. 

Leaving La Grande, and passing over the summit at Meacham, on through 
the Umatilla Reservation, we reach Pendleton, one of the brightest, busiest 
cities in Eastern Oregon. Here a branch line of the Union Pacific system 
reaches toward the north to the far-famed 

PALOUSE COUNTRY AND SPOKANE FALLS. 

The great plains of the Columbia, stretching away to the northward from 
the river, are, according to competent authorities, the richest basaltic lands in 
the United States. The soil seems to possess simply marvelous properties; the 
crops grown exceed belief ; the harvests are rainless; the climate, subdued and 
tempered by the soft Chinook wind, well-nigh reaches perfection. 

The climate of this new empire of the Pacific Northwest is, as yet, but little 
understood by dwellers in the East. The winters in this region are very nearly 
the same temperature as those of the Southern Gulf States, while the summers 
are cool. This immunity from heat is accounted for by high latitude, and the 
fact that the prevailing wind, in midsummer, is from the north. The soft 
south wind, the "Chinook," is born of the great Japan current which breaks all 
along these shores, and this breath of summer is wafted inland all during the 
winter months. Both these currents of air partake of the nature of trade 
winds, and are constant and unfailing in their appointed time. So steadily do 
these winds blow that there are no excessively hot days in summer nor any 
bitter days of cold in the winter. 

The road runs through thriving towns — Walla Walla, Colfax, Farmington, 




(78j 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 79 

and Rockford, where a detour may be made to Coeur d'Alene Lake, one of the 
loveliest sheets of water on the continent — until it reaches its terminal at Spo- 
kane Falls, the young giant of the North. This prosperous city of nearly 
25,000 people was almost totally destroyed by the appalling fire of August, 
1889, but has been rebuilt stronger, better, and more beautiful than before. 
Fine business blocks, palatial hotels, churches, and theatres have arisen as if 
by magic, and the city leaps forward again in her race, the stouter-hearted for 
her terrible affliction. 

Resuming the journey from Pendleton over the Cascade Range, the tourist 
reaches Celilo. A short distance above Celilo is " Hell Gate " whirlpool, so 
called from its resemblance to the famous New York Hell Gate. At Celilo is 
the commencement of " The Dalles " of the Columbia, a stretch of river reach- 
ing fourteen miles to Dalles Station. 

THE DALLES OF THE COLUMBIA. 

The Columbia is navigable for 275 miles above Celilo, and then the Snake 
River offers a clear course for 300 miles up as far as Lewiston. The fourteen 
miles from Celilo to Dalles Station are simply rapids. A little way above 
Dalles Station is the gorge which is so often termed " The Dalles." The chasm 
occupies about two and a half miles out of the fourteen comprised in the dis- 
tance from Celilo to Dalles Station. The river above is from 2,000 to 2,500 
feet wide, and in flood time is often a mile in width, but for this two and a half 
miles the great volume of the stream is compressed into a narrow cleft about 
130 feet across. During a "June rise" the water has risen here 126 feet — it 
is no uncommon thing for it to mark sixty and seventy feet rise every year. 

The word " Dalles " is somewhat of a misnomer. It is a French word, 
"Dalle" signifying "flagstone," or "slab," or, as some translate it, "plates." 
The significance of the name is found in the oval or square-shaped stones, 
"flagstones," or "plates" of basaltic rock in the river and valley. In the 
patois of the French hunters, " Dalles " seems to have been applied always 
to a narrow gorge or caiion, and so the name has stood for this part of the 
Columbia River. 

So much has been said of this mighty river that the preconceived idea of 
the tourist is of a surging flood of unknown depth rushing like a mountain 
torrent. The plain facts are that the Lower Columbia is rather a placid 
stream with a sluggish current, and the channel shoals up to eight feet, then 
falling to twelve, fifteen, and seventeen feet, and suddenly dropping to 100 
feet of water and over. In the spring months it will rise from twenty-five 
to forty feet, leaving driftwood high up among the trees on the banks. The 
tide ebbs and flows at Portland from eighteen inches to three feet, according 
to season, and this tidal influence is felt, in high water, as far -up as 
the Cascades. 




(80) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 81 

At " The Dalles " Station the tourist may leave the train and take the steamer 
down the Columbia for Portland. It is eighty-eight miles by rail to the city, and 
about no miles by river. The day's run down this lordly stream is a never-to- 
be-forgotten experience. 

From " The Dalles " Station the noble river, surging and whirling to the 
sea, breaking the image rocks into wave fragments, occupies the mind of the 
beholder. The Columbia is one of the world's great rivers, affording a water- 
way that is navigable for traffic for over 1,200 miles. Upon it, for 100 miles 
from its mouth, the largest ocean steamers ply with safety. It is Oregon's 
artery, throbbing with trade. Its largest tributary is the Willamette, draining 
the valley of the same name, and being navigable for vessels of any size to Port- 
land, and for light river boats for over 150 miles further. There can be nothing 
more inspiring than the ride from " The Dalles " down the gorge of the Colum- 
bia through the Cascade Mountains, with the shining river on one side and the 
towering battlements of the shore on the other. The scene is one of continued 
magnificence. The grottoes, in which are moss-garlanded cascades almost 
hidden under the dense foliage, are most inviting and beautiful. 

Twelve miles from " The Dalles " we pass Memaloose Isle, the ancient burial 
place of the Chinook Indians. A tall, white shaft springs from the rocky bosom 
of the island, marking the last resting place of Victor Trevet, one of Oregon's 
eccentric pioneers, and a firm friend of the Indians. In deference to his oft- 
repeated request during his lifetime, his remains were brought from San Fran- 
cisco, where he died, and placed among his red brethren on the " Isle of the 
Dead," as Memaloose signifies in the Chinook language. 

The gorge proper of the Cascade Mountains, through which the Columbia 
flows, is reached about twenty miles down from " The Dalles," the hills near 
that station being rather low, but for the next thirty miles the panorama is a 
perpetually shifting and shining splendor. The Cascades are fifty miles from 
*' The Dalles." The river-bed is filled with gigantic boulders and huge mis- 
shapen stones, and for six miles the mighty stream lashes itself into a fury over 
these obstructions. The Indian legend is to the effect that once there was 
a bridge across the river here, formed by nature, and that Mt. Hood and 
Mt. Adams quarreled and threw stones at one another, and that in this con- 
flict of giants the bridge was destroyed. We leave the steamer at the upper Cas- 
cade and make the portage of six miles by narrow-gauge railway, re-embarking 
at the lower Cascade where the Portland boat is in waiting. This second section 
of the Upper Columbia is magnificent beyond description. Attention is called 
to the beautiful islands above the Cascades and to Wind Mountain, a bare peak 
which seems to have been stripped of every particle of grass, shrub, or tree. 
There are scores of small falls lining the river: " Horse Tail " first we meet; then 
"Multnomah," the beautiful, a slender veil of spray falling 850 feet perpendic- 
ularly from the cliff above — a delicious bit of fairyland; then "Bri<;Jal Veil" 
and " Oneonta," all clear and dashing, and banked by a wealth of moss. The 

6 




(82) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 83 

lofty summits over which they pour are reproduced in the river, and made 
doubly impressive. For miles upon miles this wild scenery continues, and a 
thousand times the tourist thinks the climax has been reached, only to acknowl- 
edge later that something grander has developed. 

Just below Oneonta Falls there is a beautiful glen. It is inaccessible even to 
the most venturesome climber, and nestles there securely under solemn crags; 
but the charm is in the coloring — the air has a peculiar glowing blue tint, a 
misty web of beauty, caught, perhaps, from sky and river and reflected there. 
Next comes " Castle Rock," rising i,ooo feet sheer from the water's edge; 
" Rooster Rock," a bold and impressive pinnacle anchored amid stream; " Cape 
Horn," towering up 500 feet, and those twin shafts, massive and grand, the 
•'Pillars of Hercules." 

Along the River Rhine, the Rhone, or the Hudson, there is nothing that 
will compare with the stately palisades of the Columbia, with their cool recesses, 
kept sunless by the overhanging rocks, and watered by the melting snows of 
their own summits. From the mouth of the Willamette a splendid view can be 
had of Mt, Hood, Mt. St. Helen's, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Ranier, where the 
scenery surpasses anything of its kind in the world. From Hood River Station 
above the Cascades the traveler will find good stages to convey him over an 
excellent road to the base of Mt. Hood, twenty-five miles distant. The view 
from Mt. Hood is simply incomparable, and the trip from Hood River Station 
to Mt. Hood is made through some of the most extraordinary scenery in the 
world. 

Mr. E. McD. Johnstone speaks of Mt. Hood as follows: " The view from the 
summit of Hood is one of unsurpassed grandeur, and probably includes in its 
range a greater number of high peaks and vast mountain chains, grand forests 
and mighty rivers than any other mountain in North America. Looking across 
the Columbia, the ghostly pyramids of Adams and St. Helen, with their con- 
necting ridges of eternal snow, first catch the eye; then comes the silent, lofty 
Ranier, with the blue waters of Puget Sound and the rugged Olympian Mount- 
ains for a background; and away to the extreme north (nearly to H. B. M.'s 
dominions), veiled in earth mists and scarcely discernible from the towering 
cumuli that inswathe it, lies Mt. Baker. Looking south over Oregon the view 
embraces the Three Sisters (all at one time), Jefferson, Diamond Peak, Scott, 
Pitt, and if it be a favorable day, and you have a good glass, you may see 
Shasta, 250 miles away. The westward view is down over the lower coast range, 
the Umpqua, Calapooya, and Rogue River Mountains, with their sunny, upland 
valleys, and away out over the restless ocean. In the opposite direction, across 
the illimitable plains of Eastern Oregon, to the Azure Blue Mountains; down, 
almost to the foot of this mountain, ' rolls the Columbia,* through the narrow, 
rugged gorge of ' The Dalles,' 250 miles of its winding course being visible. 
The entire length of the great Willamette Valley, with its pleasant, prosperous 
towns and gently flowing river, its broad, fertile farms, like rich mosaics, with 




"0) 



(84) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 85 

borders of dark-green woodlands, is spread out in great beauty under the 
western slope of Mt. Hood." And next, Fort Vancouver, eighteen miles from 
Portland, is passed, a post well known in history, where Grant and Sheridan 
were once stationed. Six miles below the fort the Willamette swells the Colum- 
bia, and twelve miles up this lovely river brings us just at nightfall to the light 
and warmth and comfort of cheery Portland. 

PORTLAND. 

It was as far back as 1843 that the first settlers came to make a home here 
on the banks of the Willamette River, and the city of Portland was incorpo- 
rated in 1 851; the year 1889 witnesses its growth to metropolitan dimensions, 
and a population of over 50,000 souls. It is twelve miles from Portland to the junc- 
tion of the Willamette with the Columbia, and ninety-eight miles from the Pacific 
Ocean. The length of the city parallel with the river is about seven and one- 
half miles; two-thirds of this frontage is occupied with wharves from one to 
three stories in height. The western boundary is formed by a chain of hills 
about one mile distant, with a gentle slope toward the river, thus assuring natural 
drainage. The view from any one of the hundred elevations west of the 
city is very beautiful. There are long rows of stately mansions that skirt the 
foothills, many of them costing over $100,000. The business portion comes next, 
extending to the water front, with its massive brick and stone blocks, towering 
church spires and handsome public buildings. There is added to this the 
spectacle of a great navigable river (over a half-mile in width), literally dotted 
with palatial steamboats, magnificent steamships, and large ocean-going vessels 
which are daily arriving and departing for all parts of the world. Directly 
across the river, one-half mile distant, and connected with Portland by two 
bridges and three ferry lines, is the flourishing city of East Portland, with a 
population of 12,000. To the north of, and adjoining, the last named city is 
the growing town of Albina, with a population of probably 4,000. The two 
cities are practically part of the city proper, so much so in fact, that a move- 
ment is now under way to incorporate the three into one, thus swelling the 
actual population of Portland to at least 65,000. 

PORTLAND TO SAN FRANCISCO. 

From Portland to San Francisco the trip can be made in the iron steam- 
ships of the Union Pacific, which favorably compare with the best ocean 
steamers on the Atlantic for safety, speed, and comfort ; or by rail over the 
Mt. Shasta route of the Southern Pacific Company. After the long ride by 
rail, the ocean voyage makes a pleasing break, the murmur of the ocean 
breezes, and the rythmic cadence of the waves as they kiss the sides of the 
noble ship, form a fitting finale to the overland trip across the continent. 




(86) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 



PORTLAND TO ALASKA. 



87 



To the tourist, Alaska presents many points of interest. Its curious people, 
wonderful scenery, extinct volcanoes, magnificent glaciers, hot springs, sulphur 
lakes, and boiling marshes, well repay the tourist for making the trip. The 
verdure, flowers, and birds of this Northland dispel the popular illusion of its 
frigid temperature. The trip to Alaska via steamer from Portland will be 
something to think of in after years. 

PORTLAND TO PUGET SOUND. 

The magnificent region of the Sound may be reached by the tourist either 
by rail, the distance being 150 miles to Tacoma, or by steamer from Portland 
to Victoria, B. C, there connecting with the Union Pacific Railway Com- 
pany's elegant line of boats for Tacoma. This royal realm of beauty is 
beginning to be appreciated by travelers. The voyage from Portland on the 
calm Pacific, through the stately Straits of Fuca and glorious Puget Sound, is 
charming beyond description. There is complete immunity from that dread 
scourge sea-sickness ; the steamers are elegantly furnished and equipped, and 
the bold, impressive, yet harmonious scenery rimming these noble sheets of 
water is not equaled on the American continent. The points touched are 
Victoria; then the bustling "city of destiny," Port Townsend; Seattle, the 
sturdy ; and Tacoma, a beautiful city located on the upper arm of the Sound. 
After the Columbia, there is no trip to compare with this in the Northwest, so 
complete is the escape from dust and the stifling heat of mid-summer. 

THE LOWER COLUMBIA. 

After the numerous attractions of handsome Portland have been thoroughly 
gone over, the many drives and walks accomplished, the beautiful falls of the 
Willamette visited, twelve miles up the river at Oregon City, there remains a grand 
excursion for the tourist from Portland down the river to Astoria and Ilwaco — 
the mouth of the Columbia. The Union Pacific Railway Company's steamers 
on this route are not surpassed in speed, elegance, or comfort of every 
description. A new floating palace, the T. J. Potter, was last year added to the 
fleet, and in August, 1888, this boat made the run from her dock in Portland to 
Astoria, a good long ninety-eight miles, in five hours and thirty minutes. The 
scenery of the lower river is not so rugged, neither is it so sharply defined. 
The grand Columbia broadens out into a majestic stream moving slowly to its 
death in the Pacific, and there is something stately in its measured flow. Small 
hamlets, villages, and towns dot the banks, mammoth salmon canneries on 
either hand. There is "Cofifin Rock," a gruesome looking affair, and " Saddle 
Mountain " with its lovely tints, Baker Bay, Clatsop Beach, and Astoria, known 
of all men for three-quarters of a century. Clatsop Beach is one of the most 
charming resorts in all Oregon. Leaving the boat at Astoria, the tourist has a 




,,,^\v»^--"i^ 



Crater Lake, Oregon — reached via tlie Union Pacific Ry. 



(88) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE, 89 

drive of sixteen miles through the beautiful lowland country back of the town. 
At the Beach will be found a first-class hotel affording every needed comfort 
and convenience. The bathing at Clatsop is unequaled, and the beach is 
longer than any bit of sea coast in this part of the State. With the luxurious hotel 
accommodations provided, and the superior bathing facilities always at hand, 
Clatsop offers inducements not elsewhere extended to the traveler in pursuit 
of happiness and solid comfort. Ilwaco is a charming village across the river 
from Astoria. A miniature railway runs out to the long pier, and passengers 
step from the boat onto the train and whirl away to the outside beach two miles 
distant, where one luxuriates in the mild majesty of the Pacific. Secure round- 
trip tickets and berths, sleep on board, and watch the moon rise over the harbor 
bar. There are satiated old-timers who pronounce this the most luxurious of 
all the trips offered the tourist out of Portland. The cuisine of these steamers 
is as fine as any hotel on the coast, and the staterooms, attendance, and conven- 
iences are simply perfect. 

CRATER LAKE. 

Crater Lake, Oregon, can be reached from Medford, Oregon, on the Mt. 
Shasta route of the Southern Pacific Company, and stage line to Ft. Klamath, 
the military post in the Klamath Indian Reservation. The distance by stage 
from Medford to Ft. Klamath is about ninety miles, and from Ft. Klamath to 
Crater Lake about twenty-two miles. 

Crater Lake is situated in the Oregon National Park, about twenty-two 
miles north of Ft. Klamath, among the summits of the Cascade Range. It is 
the crater of a long extinct volcano, and its waters, formerly believed to be 
fathomless, were found by the measurements of the geological survey to be 
4,000 feet deep. 

The surface of the lake is 6,351 feet above the level of the sea, and its 
shores rise almost perpendicularly from the water's edge to a height of from 
1,000 to over 2,000 feet — that is, to an elevation of from 7,351 to over 8,351 
feet above sea-level; three-fourths the height of Mt. Hood, only 1,000 feet 
lower than Mt. St. Helen's, and 2,000 feet above Mt. Washington. 

It is oblong in shape, being seven miles long and six miles broad, and 
covering an area of about forty-two square miles. Out of its abysmal depths 
rise numerous islands, towering precipitously to enormous heights. Shag; 
Rock is 2,115 f--t ^^'gh. Button Cliff 2,109 ^Q&^, Llao Rock 2,000 feet, Helio- 
trope Station 1,965 feet, and Wizard Island towers 845 feet above the surface 
of the water. 

It is in many respects the most wonderful body of water in the world. Lake 
Baikal, m Siberia, is eighty feet deeper, but it is a sea in comparison, covering 
a space of 54 by 397 miles. 

Though it lies on the very ridge of the great Cascade Range, and Mt. Scott, 
close by, towers in snowy majesty to a height of 9,117 feet above the sea, the 
ascent is easy, and wagons can be driven to its very brink. The visitor 




Multnomah Falls, Columbia River, Oregon — or 



Pacific Ry. 



(90) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 91 

approaching the spot, suddenly emerges from the belt of encircling timber into 
an amphitheatre of desolation. Huge masses of rocks, lava, cinders, scoria, 
and pumice stone, lie scattered and piled all around ; rocky pinnacles tower 
skyward on every hand ; and just beyond rises a semi-circle of mountain peaks, 
from 200 to 1,000 feet high. Advancing a few steps farther, one is suddenly, 
without warning, on the brink of the abyss, and cautiously peering over its edge, 
the inky waters of the lake are seen in glassy calm, or in stormy tumult, 2,000 
feet below in the very bowels of the mountain. The dizzy walls are scarred, 
melted, and blackened from the belching floods of flame and molten lava that 
ages since were vomited up from the Plutonian furnaces of the central earth ; 
and lying flat upon the ground, a stone dropped will almost pass from sight 
before it strikes a projection in the perpendicular wall. 

It is a sublime, a majestic, an awful — almost a horrible — spectacle, and the 
head swims with the contemplation of it. It is little wonder that the simple- 
minded natives believe it to be inhabited by llaos, or devils, and regard a 
curious glance therein as a profanation. Their traditions teach them that ages 
ago it was the scene of terrible convulsions — of fiery struggles between warring 
spirits, and that the conquerors retain possession to this day. Geologists 
confirm these traditions, in teaching us that the mountain once rose to a height 
of 10,000 to 20,000 feet, and was a peculiarly active volcano, the peak having 
been gradually eroded by the violence of the successive eruptions to its 
present height. 

The vent of the final eruption was Wizard Island, a regularly conical 
mountain of cinder, with a cup-shaped top, usually filled with snow. 

There are several descents by which access can be had to the- level of the 
lake, where the visitor may enjoy the strange luxury of a boat-ride over the 
waters of Jules Verne's "Central Sea," and look up, as it were, through the 
chimney of the globe, and picture the terrible energies that once found through 
it a vent, with fire, and smoke, and quakings, and vast thunders of torment 
compared to which the throes of ^tna are but pigmy tremors. 

THE MT. SHASTA ROUTE. 

(from PORTLAND TO SAN FRANCISCO.) 

The Mt. Shasta route is very interesting, and the tourist should see its 
marvels to fully appreciate the wonders of Oregon and California. This route, 
through the western portion of Oregon, southward through the northern portion 
of California, 772 miles from Portland to San Francisco, passes through a 
country fertile in resources, and rich in points of scenic interest. Particularly 
is this true of Northern California, which will in time equal and excel the 
southern portions of the State in wealth and population; and the rapid strides 
this section has been making since the completion of the Mt. Shasta route 
by the Southern Pacific Company augurs well for its future importance and 
prosperity. 



92 WESTERN RESORTS 

The Mt. Shasta route takes its name from Mt. Shasta, which is situated on 
its line in CaUfornia. It is one of the most wonderful mountains in the world, 
as well as one of the largest. It has a number of peaks: Main Peak, altitude, 
14,440; Thumb Rock, 13,000, and Crater Peak, 12,900. The view from the 
different portions of the mountain is incomparably lovely, and can not be 
excelled on the American continent. Other points of interest are Mt. Hood 
(which is reached by stage from this line of road), Umpqua and Rogue River 
Mountains. The Rogue River Valley, the Siskiyous, Strawberry Valley, one of 
the scenic wonders of the Pacific coast, the plains of Northern California, 
Upper Soda Springs in Sacramento Canon, Lower Soda Springs, the Sacra- 
mento River, which rises at the base of Mt. Shasta, and is one of the most 
beautiful rivers in the world, and Mossbrae Falls, are a few of the wonders 
presented to the tourist in the trip from Portland to San Francisco via the Mt. 
Shasta route. 

Note. — For further mformation see *' Sights and Scenes in Oregon, Washing- 
ton, and Alaska," issued by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and 
containing minute descriptions of points of interest and health resorts. 

The Union Pacific Railway will sell at greatly reduced rates, a series 
of excursion tickets called "Columbia Tours," using Portland as a central 
point. Stop-over privileges will be given wilhin the limitation of the tickets. 

First Columbia Tour : Portland to " The Dalles " by rail, and return by 
river. 

Second Columbia Tour : Portland to Astoria, Ilwaco, and Clatsop Beach, 
and return by river. 

Third Columbia Tour : Portland to Port Townsend, Seattle, and Tacoma 
by boat and return. 

Fourth Columbia Tour : Portland to Alaska and return. 

Fifth Columbia Tour : Portland to San Francisco by boat. 





UTAH POINTS, 



|TAH was originally part of the territory of Upper California ceded 
to the United States by the Mexican treaty of 1848, and was 
settled by the Mormons under Brigham Young in 1847. A 
Territorial government was formed September 9, 1850. The name "Utah" 
is of Indian derivation, and signifies " a home or location on a mountain top." 
The Territory contains 84,000 square miles; is 350 miles long by 260 wide. 
There are 400,000 acres of land under cultivation, and the yearly value of 
farm products as last reported was upward of $10,000,000. We have but scant 
and meagre mention of Utah in any historical record. Great Salt Lake was 
first mentioned by Baron La Hontan in 1689, but he knew of it only from 
Indian traditions. Captain Bonneville's party failed to reach there in 1833, and 
wandered aimlessly into Southern California. General Fremont was the first 
white man who invaded the solemn stillness of this mysterious sea, in 1842. 



OGDEN. 

Ogden is one of the western termini of the Union Pacific. It has an 
elevation of about 4,301 feet above the sea-level. It has a population of about 
12,000 people, and is steadily gaining all the time. While its growth has been 
slow, it has been on a solid basis. The enormous supplies in shipments from 
the great country tributary to it give employment in their transfer to a large 
number of men. Here are located the division headquarters and shops of the 
Union and. the Southern Pacific railroads. It has good schools, hotels, banks, 
and churches, and the surroundmg country possesses much to attract the 
tourist. 

Just north of Ogden, and beyond the Utah Hot Springs, is the celebrated 
Cache Valley, oval in form, and surrounded by mountains and trimmed with 
green-fringed brooks and rivulets. Through this valley runs the Utah & 
Northern Branch to Pocatello, and north of the valley is the famous Port 
Neuf Canon, unusually picturesque in formation. 

(93) 




o 



(94) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 95 

ECHO CANON 

Is on the main line of the Union Pacific, and is entered upon soon after leaving 
Evanston, Wyoming. " Echo Caiion," says a celebrated English traveler, "is 
a superb defile. It moves along like some majestic poem in a series of incom- 
parable stanzas. There is nothing that I know of on the earth like it." This mas- 
terpiece of Nature is some thirty miles long, and its wonderful diversity of con. 
tour, its beauty and its grandeur are astounding. It has every feature of 
impressiveness, strong, sharply-defined color, and groupings of majestic forms — 
temples, towers, colonnades stretching out in long perspective, and supporting 
the weight of mighty cornices, striking objects whose vast proportions show 
them to be the work of Nature alone, and yet their symmetrical forms are as 
true as if fashioned by the hand of man. Geologists tell us that this section is 
undoubtedly among the most anciently exposed portions of the American 
continent. Among the wonders of this marvelous defile the tourist will note 
"Hanging Rock," "The Steamboat," "Gibraltar," "Monument Rock," and 
" Pulpit Rock," famous the world over. Pulpit Rock is so called from its shape, 
and from the supposition that Brigham Young preached from it his first sermon 
on Utah soil, addressed to the pioneers then on their way to the Salt Lake 
Valley, in 1847. 

WEBER CANON 

Is on the main line of the Union Pacific. Between the little town of Echo and 
the head of Weber Caiion there are several miles of the Weber Valley, luxuriant 
in meadows and dotted with farm-houses. Weber Canon is not simply a long 
defile through the mountains, but it is a majestic succession of true mountain 
scenery; mighty gateways, long, narrow valleys, visions of great peaks, holding 
in their ravines eternal snow, heights crested with pine and aspen, and towers 
and domes of rock. Says an eloquent writer: " As on the Rhine, the long 
stretch of the river from Mainz to Cologne has been for years by acknowledg- 
ment ' The River,' so that portion of the Union Pacific which lies between 
Wahsatch and Ogden in this northern part of Utah will some day be that part 
of the journey across the centre of the continent which will be regarded by 
the tourist as necessary to see beyond all others. And long after the Pacific 
journey is as hackneyed to Europeans and Americans as the Rhine tour is now, 
Weber Canon will keep its freshness among the most marked scenes of the 
journey. It is a place which cities and settlements can not destroy." Among 
the many points of interest the traveler will note "Wilhelmina Pass," "Devil's 
Slide," the " One-thousand Mile Tree " (from Omaha), and the " Devil's 
Gate." 

SYRACUSE BEACH. 

Syracuse Beach, fifteen miles from Ogden, is reached by the Utah Central 
Branch of the Union Pacific. Here the tourist will find an excellent strand 




(86) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 97 

and comfortable appliances for bathing. Close at hand are lovely groves, cool, 
shady, and inviting, where an ideal picnic can be held. Syracuse Beach is 
beginning to be recognized as a charming summer resort for families who 
desire to spend the heated term by the sea-side. 



OGDEN CANON. 

Ogden Cafion, one of Utah's chief scenic attractions, is reached by a half- 
hour's drive over a good road from Ogden. The Ogden River, which courses 
between its walls, is a famous trout stream. The sides of this canon are very 
precipitous and picturesque, rivaling the American Fork in the variety and 
character of their striking features. At the head of the canon is an elevated 
park, called Ogden Park, and beyond this the drive may be extended to Cache 
and Bear Lake Valleys. 



UTAH HOT SPRINGS. 

These springs are sometimes called Red Springs, and sometimes Ogden 
Springs. They are just nine miles north of Ogden, and are readily reached from 
there over the Utah & Northern Branch of the Union Pacific to Hot Springs 
Station, which is a regular station on the road, and the springs are but a few 
steps away. All trains stop at the door of the hotel. This hotel is plainly, but 
comfortably furnished, accommodating about 150 people, and additional accom- 
modations are being provided every season. These springs have an elevation 
of some 4,500 feet above sea-level, and are far superior to the celebrated Hot 
Springs of Arkansas. The main spring boils up at the foot of a low ridge of 
the Wahsatch Mountains, a short distance east of the railway station. These 
springs impart a red hue to the surrounding soil. Their temperature is so high 
that the hand can not be held in the water without great pain. The water is 
conducted into the hotel from the springs in wooden pipes for private bathing 
and for the great open bath, when it becomes cool enough for use. These 
springs are patronized all the year round, and are very efificacious in curing 
rheumatism, neuralgia, catarrh, and all skin, blood, and kidney diseases. The 
waters are intensely hot, and their chief constituents are iron, magnesia, soda, 
and salt. 

The bracing air of the Wahsatch Range, mingling with the saline breezes of 
the Great Salt Lake, with the pure water of these thermal, balsamic springs, 
nowhere excelled for drinking or bathing purposes, produce a natural combina- 
tion of marvelously curative properties. 

The flow is about 156,000 gallons of water every twenty-four hours, at a 
temperature of 131° Fahrenheit. A close analysis of the water by Prof. Spencer 




i98) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 99 

Fo Baird, of the Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D. C, shows that besides 
containing carbonate of iron in heavy deposits, it also contains: 

Grains to 
the gallon. 

Silica 2.687 

Alumina 0.234 

Calcium sulphate. 18.074 

Calcium chloride 170.498 

Potassium chloride 97. 741 

Sodium chloride 1,052.475 

Magnesium chloride 1.067 

Magnesium carbonate 11.779 

The bathing accommodations consist of a number of private tubs, for vapor 
or steam, and hot mud baths. The latter is the great Indian cure for rheuma- 
tism. Besides supplying these baths, this wonderful water is run into an outside 
summer bath i66 x 204 feet, three feet deep at the upper, and seven at the lower, 
side, arranged with foot-runs and spring-boards, thus affording amusement for 
hundreds at a time. 

WILLARD CANON AND FALLS 
Are reached via the Union Pacific to Ogden, and thence via the Utah & 
Northern Branch of the Union Pacific to Willard Station, where a good team 
can be had for the falls. The distance from Willard Station is three miles. 

Willard is the name of a picturesque little town six miles beyond the Ogden 
Hot Springs. It is surrounded on all sides by natural beauty, but mostly the 
,eye is attracted toward the west, where the Great Salt Lake, with its deep blue 
waters and mountainous islands is seen to fine advantage; and to the east where 
there is such a wild lot of beetling crags, which, for height and grandeur, are not 
exceeded by even the wonders of Echo and Weber Canons. 

Just back of the town are the falls, situated in a canon or glen, truly alpine 
in its wildness. Some of its walls of rock are simply terrific, and during the 
early months its stream comes down with a magnificent rush. There are great 
naked aiguilles and towers which make one dizzy to look up to their summits. 
About two miles from the entrance there is a huge mountain which, where it 
faces down the glen, is a bristling mass of crags, jags, and splinters, but which, 
at the back, has all of its ledges so smoothly polished that not a foothold could 
be found upon them. Such a mountain as we dream of, when our sleep is 
feverish, and we imagine ourselves going down, down, down, vainly catching 
at bits of seam-grown grass which, breaking at our grasp, lets us slowly glide, 

A week's sojourn at Willard at any time from May to October means a week 
of rare enjoyment. 

GARFIELD BEACH. 

Garfield Beach, or Black Rock, is eighteen miles from Salt Lake City, on 
the shores of the Great Salt Lake, and is reached from Salt Lake City by the 
Utah & Nevada Branch of the Union Pacific. During the season, trains run 




(101)') 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 101 

back and forth at frequent intervals during the day and evening. It is the 
only real sand beach on the lake, and is considered by many to be the finest 
in the world. It should be, and will be, the great resort of the continent. It is 
not a sullen, listless sheet of water, beating idly on the shores, barren and 
repellent; but, on the contrary, it is as beautiful a sheet .of water as can be found 
anywhere. The waves are a bright blue or green, and as they dance on its sur- 
face it would be hard to tell which color prevails. The wate;r supports no life. 
Its constant sinking and rising is only one of its many curious phases. The 
sensation upon entering the water is novel and congenial. In the long, sunny 
days of June, July, August, and September, the water becomes delightfully 
warm, much warmer than the ocean. It is 21 per cent, salt, while the ocean is 
only 3 per cent. The water is so dense that a person is sustained on its sur- 
face indefinitely without effort. Experience has proven its great hygienic 
effects. Owing to the stimulating effect of the brine upon the skin, or the 
saline air upon the lungs, or both together, the appetite is stimulated, and after 
a bath, bathers are ready for a hearty meal. The baths are extremely invigorat- 
ing. If there is any abrasion upon the skin it will smart for an instant when 
it touches the brine, but after the bath the smarting isgone never to return; and 
after rinsing off in the fresh water, provided in every bath-room, there is a sense 
of cleanliness more perfect than any other bath can produce. A fine bath- 
house accommodating 400 people has been erected at Garfield Beach, m con- 
nection with' which there is a first-class restaurant, and a large dancing-pavilion 
built out into the lake, all of which are run by the Pacific Hotel Company, 
under the supervision of the Union Pacific. At the restaurant excellent meals 
can be had during the entire season. The buildings at Garfield Beach are 
modern, have every convenience, and were erected last year at a great cost. 
It is proposed to erect a large hotel on the beach, although the ready access 
which is had to and from the Salt Lake City hotels has heretofore rendered a 
hotel at Garfield Beach unnecessary. The view from the pavilion at Garfield 
Beach is one of surpassing loveliness. The mountains on the shore form a fine 
background to the rippling waters on the lake, which stretch out on either hand 
before the beholder, dancing in the sunlight, sometimes a beautiful blue, and at 
other times green, with three or four of the largest islands m full view, which, 
in the distance, have a peculiar purplish hue. 

Concerning Garfield Beach as a health and pleasure resort the following 
candid remarks of a prominent Western journalist may not be uninteresting: 

" It is true I am not the first to visit Garfield Beach, but it so happens that 
those who have visited it ahead of me have not properly published its wonders 
in the public press, and people are not, therefore, aware of the fact that Salt 
Lake is already one of the most attractive bathing resorts in this country. 

" Some day people will visit Salt Lake as they now throng the sea-shore. 
Some day the borders of this immense inland sea will be lined with large 
hotels, elegant villas, and gaily-colored bathing-houses. The waves of this 




(102) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 103 

briny lake will some day bear the light burden of excursion boats, yachts, and 
row-boats in large numbers. The mountains around it will be dotted with 
country homes and scoured by excursion parties. The seekers after health and 
recreation will find both in the benefits and pleasures of frequent baths in this 
most wonderful of lakes. 

" Salt-water bathing may now be enjoyed by all who visit Salt Lake, and it 
can not fail to convert this place into a great health resort. Good bathing- 
houses having been erected and railroad accommodations made adequate; 
hundreds of bathers enter the waters of Salt Lake every day, and hourly trains 
run from the city to the beach. 

'*Have you ever bathed in water that is 21 per cent., or almost one-fourth 
salt? Probably not. Comparatively very few people have yet realized the 
exhilarating and invigorating effects of a bath in Salt Lake, and nowhere else 
in the world can such water be found. The water of the ocoan is 3 per cent. 
salt and considerably more buoyant than fresh water. The waur of Salt Lake 
contains nearly eight times as much salt as the water of the ocean, and is so 
buoyant that a human being floats upon its surface like a log of wood. Men, 
women, and children, totally unable to swim, enter the lake with perfect safety, 
and in their gaily-colored bathing-suits bob around in the water like so many 
human bubbles. So great is the specific gravity of the water in this lake that 
a person can not sink, and the only evil to guard against is getting a mouthful 
of salt water, which is so strong as to choke one disagreeably and even pain- 
fully. 

" Garfield Beach, the bathing resort par excellence of the lake, is established 
on the shores of the Great Salt Lake, and is reached by the Utah & Nevada 
Branch of the Union Pacific from the city in from half an hour to forty-five 
minutes. It is located on the southern shore of the lake, about eighteen miles 
distant from the city, at the base of high mountains. Five hundred bathers 
were enjoying the waters of this beach when the writer, attired in a gaudy 
bathing-suit, entered the briny flood. We soon found ourselves in the midst 
of men, women, and children, indolently floating on the water or lazily swim- 
ming to and fro. The habits of the fresh-water bathers are more brisk, and 
naturally enough I * struck out,' as the saying is, to do some swimming. In 
a moment I wished I had not been in such a hurry. My feet and hands bobbed 
up to the surface, or near it, and the consequent splash of water landed several 
stinging drops in my eyes. For a moment the briny, burning sensation was 
quite severe, far more so than ocean water could make it. I then realized what 
excellent judgment was displayed by those who behaved more quietly in the 
water. They had no difficulty in keeping eyes, nose, and mouth free from the 
strong brine, which is so pleasant to float in. A little experience will enable 
anyone to float and slowly swim in this water without getting it into his mouth 
or eyes. The chief precaution is to keep quiet, and that the bathers realize 
this is evident from the lazy manner in which they lie around in the water, or 




o 



o 



(1U4) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. ]05 

the equally lazy way in which they roll, or swim, or paddle from place to 
place. 

" The fresh-water bathers can not but be surprised at the feats performed 
in this lake without any difficulty. Men lie on their backs m the water quietly 
smoking as they are rocked delightfully in the swells which roll in lazy waves 
upon the beach. Men and women lying upon their backs form long processions, 
the leader putting his feet under the armpits of the next person, and he or she 
in turn doing the same to the third person in line. In this way eight or ten 
linked together may be seen floating on the water, slowly proceeding in pro- 
cession, as the leader uses his arms to propel the human raft. Those who thus 
link themselves together are, I presume, well acquainted with each other. 
Several ladies dressed in fancy bathing-suits attracted my attention from the 
ease and grace of their movements in the water. Indeed, one can not fail to 
note that women are far more graceful in the water than men, as soon as they 
acquire confidence, which they appear to gain very soon. 

" It is common for the bathers in this lake to remain in the water an hour. 
Many extend the time to two and some to three hours. Moderate bathing can 
be indulged in day after day without the ill effects which would follow such 
frequent bathing in fresh water. 

" I can not close without renewing the prophecy of future greatness for 
Salt Lake as a summer resort. To develop the great advantages of the lake 
and to make them accessible to the people of the East, the Union Pacific pur- 
sues a liberal policy. Salt Lake is no farther from the Missouri River than 
Chicago is from the Atlantic coast, and Eastern people are able to reach this 
splendid salt-water bathing place just as quickly as Chicago people can travel to 
the coast, as the Union Pacific now run their trains in thirty-six hours from 
the Missouri River, and will doubtless soon shorten this time to thirty hours or 
less. The rate of fare is very reasonable, excursion tickets being sold at a 
greatly reduced rate everywhere. 

" The people of the Western States long for a cheaply accessible summer 
resort. The ocean coasts are too far away; but Salt Lake, only i,ooo miles 
from the Missouri River, offers already a combination of attractions unequaled 
anywhere else in America. The visitor can bathe in salt water on a splendid 
beach, surrounded by lofty mountains; he can take hot sulphur baths m water 
coming from natural springs above the city; he can drink mineral waters com- 
ing from neighboring springs; he can make short excursions on foot or on 
horseback into canons within a few hours' ride of the city; he can find excel- 
lent fishing m many mountain streams, and he can have the opportunity of 
watching and studying the strangest people in America — the only one, m fact, 
which submits to and believes in a union of church and state, and the priestly 
rule. 

" To my taste. Salt Lake is already a far more attractive summer resort than 
others to which wealth and fashion throng, and as yet the development of its 




Jack in the Pulpit, Echo Canon, Utah— on the Union Pacific Ry 



(lOG) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 107 

attractions has only begun. A man can take his family and come to Salt Lake 
in thirty-six hours over the Union Pacific, and if desired can return by way 
of Denver. The splendid scenery in the Weber and Echo Canons of the Union 
Pacific, coupled with the attractions and wonders of Salt Lake, makes Salt 
Lake City the natural summer resort for those who are so fortunate as to be 
able to spend a few weeks of the hot weather away from home." 

Giant's Cave is located about a third of a mile to the southwest of Garfield 
Beach, in one of the mountains comprising the Oquirrh Range, and the en- 
trance to the cave is a few hundred feet above the road-bed of the Lhiion 
Pacific. In years past, the cave was submerged beneath the waves of Great 
Salt Lake; or, more correctly speaking, was probably hollowed out by its 
receding waters, so that like Staffa, it has resounded to the wash of briny waters. 
Somewhere between 500 and 600 feet is the distance the opening extends into 
the mountain, and the height of the ceiling above the floor varies from ten to 
seventy-five feet. The walls are composed of limestone, the ceiling and floor 
of conglomerate, and the sharp lines of demarkation produce the effect of 
its having been built by the hand of man. 

When the cave was first entered, nearly thirty years ago, it was found to 
contain a number of human skeletons. Whether the remains belong to the 
present race of Indians in the Salt Lake Valley is not known, but most probably 
they do. The skeletons are most likely those of warriors slain ifi some Indian 
fight of long ago, and a large number of arrow heads have been found in the 
hillside near the entrance, and occasionally one is picked up at the present day. 
These vary in size from one-third of an inch to three inches in length, and 
are of many different patterns, the small ones showing fine workmanship. In 
many cases they are made of agate and other transparent material. A pleas- 
ant morning or evening can be spent in exploring this cave and enjoying the 
sights it affords. 

GREAT SALT LAKE. 

When Great Salt Lake was discovered it was out of the world, but it is now 
isolated no longer. Everyone taking the transcontinental trip on the Union 
Pacific is afforded a d6tour free of charge to Salt Lake City, and once in Salt 
Lake City, the great lake must be seen, and this lake, as a special feature, is 
becoming better and better known every year. It is called the " Dead Sea of 
America." 

-The first mention of Great Salt Lake was made by the Baron La Hontan in 
1689, who gathered some vague knowledge of its existence from the Western 
Indians. Captain Bonneville sent a party from Green River in 1833 to make 
its circuit, but they gave it up on striking the desert on the northwest, lost their 
way, and finally wandered into California. Until Colonel Fremont visited it in 
1842, on his way to Oregon, it is probable that its dead waters had never been 
invaded, or the solemn stillness of its islands broken by the pale-face, although 




U08) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 109 

mention is made of the " Great Salt Sea " in the writings of other explorers. 
Brigham Young and the Mormon pioneers in '47, were the first settlers along its 
shores. From this time this region ceased to be a terra incognita. 

There have been many analyses made of the waters of the Great Salt Lake, 
all of them agreeing that it is a solution consisting of chloride of sodium or 
common salt, or sulphates of silver, potash, alum, and the chloride of magne- 
sium. The following comparison of solid contents and specific gravity may be 
of interest: 

Solid Contents. Specific 

Per Cent. , Gravity. 

Great Salt Lake water 13.8 1.107 

Dead Sea water , 2i.o 1.116 

Ocean water 3.5 1.026 

One of the most recent reliable analyses of the waters of the Great 
Salt Lake, by Prof. O. D. Allern, of New Haven, Conn., gave the following 
results: 

Solids. 
Per Cent. 

Chloride of sodium 79- 1 1 

Chloride of magnesia .■ 9.95 

Sulphate of soda 6.22 

Sulphate of potassa 3 -SS 

Sulphate of lime .... 0.57 

Excess of chlorine 0.57 

Total 100.00 

The Jordan carries into the Great Salt Lake ten grains of salt per gallon of 
water. Great Salt Lake has no outlet, and its fluctuating level is determined 
by the balance between in-flowing springs and solar evaporation. On the sur- 
rounding mountains are water lines rising in steps to a thousand feet above its 
surface, showing that in ancient times a great body of water occupied its basin. 
This ancient body, which was known as Lake Bonneville, was 345 miles long 
from north to south, and 135 miles broad, and its vestiges are on so grand a 
scale that they have attracted the attention of not only geologists, but of every 
observant traveler. The principal islands are Antelope and Stansbury, on 
which are rocky ridges ranging north and south, and rising abruptly from the 
lake to an altitude of 3,000 feet. The view from the summit of Antelope is 
grand and magnificent, embracing the whole lake, the islands and the encircling 
mountains covered with snow — a superb picture set in a frame-work of silver. 
The scenery on the eastern side of Stansbury is fine. Peak towers above peak, 
and cliff beyond cliff in lofty magnificence, while, crowning the summit, the 
dome frowns in gloomy solitude upon the varied scene of bright waters, scat- 
tered verdure, and boundless plains of the western shore, in the arid desolation 
below. Descending one way from the dome, a gorge, at first almost shut up 
between perpendicular cliffs of white sandstone, opens out into a superb, wide 




(110; 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. Ill 

and gently sloping valley, sheltered on each side to the very water's edge by 
cliffs, effectually protected from all winds except on the east, and covered with 
the most luxuriant growth of bunch grass. Of the minor islands there are Fre- 
mont, Carrington, Gunnison, Dolphin, Mud, Egg, Hat, and several islands with- 
out a name. 

Great Salt Lake covers an area of 2,500 square miles, and its surface is 
higher than the average height of the Allegheny Mountains. Its mean depth 
probably does not exceed twenty feet, while the deepest place, between Ante- 
lope and Stansbury Islands, is sixty feet. The water is of a beautiful aqua- 
marine hue, and so clear that th^ bottom can be seen to the depth of four 
fathoms. Great Salt Lake is one 01 "he greatest curiosities of America. Its 
extreme dimensions are about eighty miles in length by about fifty miles in 
width, and its elevation about 4,000 feet. Great Salt Lake is a wonderful place, 
and to be appreciated must be seen. 



SALT LAKE CITY. 

Salt Lake City is reached from Ogden via the Utah Central Branch of 
the Union Pacific, thirty-seven miles from Ogden. The ride from Ogden 
to Salt Lake City is one of peculiar interest, passing down the Utah or Salt 
Lake Valley, sloping gently from the mountains on the one side to the Great 
Salt Lake on the other. In fact the railway skirts the shores of the lake for 
almost the entire distance. Nine miles from Ogden is Syracuse Junction, from 
which point the Ogden & Syracuse branch of the Union Pacific runs to 
Syracuse Beach, a fine summer resort on Salt Lake. Just before entering Salt 
Lake City on the Union Pacific, are Beck's Hot Springs, three miles out, where 
there are good hotel accommodations and fine baths. The medicinal qualities 
of the water are good, and the place is largely frequented at all seasons of the 
year. It is well located and is only a few rods from the railway station. 

The famous Warm Sulphur Springs are within the northern limits of the 
city — about one mile from the business centre — and are easily reached by street 
cars. These springs issue from the base of the mountains, and the great virtue 
of the waters has long been recognized in cases of rheumatism, dyspepsia, 
catarrh, scrofula, and the entire family of blood diseases. Beneficent effects 
are experienced both by internal and external application. 

Salt Lake City was founded July 24, 1847, by the Mormons or Latter Day 
Saints. The city has a population of about 35,000 people, and the elevation is 
4,350 feet above sea-level. Her buildings are fine, both business blocks and 
private residences, and every indication of wealth is apparent. The points of 
interest are Fort Douglas, The Great Temple, The Tabernacle, The Assembly 
Hall, The Endowment House, and Zion's Cooperative Mercantile In- 
stitute. 




Devil's Slide. Weber Canon, Utah — on the Union Pacific Ry- 



(112) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 113 

Salt Lake City is one of the largest military posts in the West. The place 
attracts thousands of visitors annually, and the wide streets, lined with shade 
and fruit trees, bordered on either curb by clear running streams, are of them- 
selves sights worth the long journey from the East. The luscious fruits of 
orchards and vineyards and the delightful view of the Wahsatch Range are 
additional attractions. 

The Tabernacle is oblong, oval, and many doored. Its seating capacity is 
about X 2,000. The roof, with one exception, is the largest self-supported roof 
in the world. The Great Temple, just beside it, possesses more of beauty, but 
it is less quaint in style. It is slowly approaching completion. Its stately 
walls, of polished Utah granite, rise loo feet above the foundation, and the 
towers are to reach loo feet higher. The building will be one of the most 
massive, imposing, and expensive churches in the world when completed. The 
grave of Brigham Young, his old residence, and the palace of his favorite wife, 
will be pointed ouf as objects of local interest. But from a geological stand- 
point the whole region merits attention. Driving to the high plateau which 
overlooks the city, on every hand is seen the valley, smooth, verdant, and 
dotted with farms. In the middle, the city peers through its myriads of leaves. 
Its long roads stretch into the country straight as an arrow for some fifteen 
miles, while to the south is seen Fort Douglas, perched upon a high knoll over- 
looking the city. On the inclosing hills the old water-line of Great Salt Lake 
is visible, showing that at some time its salt waves dashed high above the dome 
of the Temple, and that this great valley was once an inland sea. Beneath this 
water-mark is another one, proving that the lake had at least two periods of 
sinking. The chief resort, however, is the Great Salt Lake, eighteen miles 
distant. This " Dead Sea of Amej^ica," with its River Jordan and the distant 
Mount Nebo, have an interest kindred to the places of the same name in the 
Holy Land. The Mormons, who are inseparably identified with Salt Lake 
City, are a peculiar people, and, modeling their form of church government and 
many of their rites and ceremonies after those of the Hebrews, they have 
clothed the valley with a mantle of nomenclature which constantly reminds the 
traveler of the land from which sprang the Christian religion; and Salt Lake 
City itself, with its immense Tabernacle and Great Temple, has been consid- 
ered the Jerusalem of the Latter Day Saints. The fame of this city and its 
Mormon institutions has gone abroad into the four quarters of the globe, but 
its wonderful attractions for the tourist and the health and pleasure seeker, with 
its unlimited resources, are destined to give it a wider and more enduring fame 
m the near future. 

Salt Lake City, at the foot of the Wahsatch Mountains, and in sight of lonely 
Nebo, the loftiest peak of Utah, would be 28,000 feet above Nebo now, if its site 
could take the altitude it occupied ages ago. That before becoming the bed of 
this lake, this site was a plateau 40,000 feet high, is clearly told in the story of 
the rocks. The mountains of old broke in half and settled back, leaving the 




Giant's Cave. Garfield Beach, on Great Salt LaUe, Utah. 



(114) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 



115 



valley between. The western slope of the eastern range, and the eastern slope 
of the western range, could some giant force bring them together, would fit 
like two cog-wheels. 

Note. — For further information, see " Sights and Scenes in Utah," issued by 
the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and containing minute descrip- 
tions of points of interest and health resorts in Utah. 

The Union Pacific Railway will sell at greatly reduced rates, during the 
summer season of 1890, a series of excursion tickets called "Salt Lake Tou-rs," 
covering the principal points in Utah, using Salt Lake City and Ogden as 
central points. Stop-over privileges will be given within the limits of the 
tickets. Tickets will be good thirty days from date of sale. 

First Salt Lake Tour: From. Ogden or Salt Lake City, down the Utah 
Central Branch of the Union Pacific to Frisco; from Frisco, returning to Lehi; 
from Lehi to Salt Lake City. 

Second Salt Lake Tour: From Salt Lake City, over the Utah & Nevada 
Division of the Union Pacific, to Terminus, and return, via Garfield Beach, to 
Salt Lake City. This tour comprises a boat ride on Great Salt Lake. 

Third Salt Lake Tour: From Salt Lake City or Ogden to Syracuse Beach 
and return. 

Fourth Salt Lake Tour: From Salt Lake City or Ogden to Park City and 
return. 

Fifth Salt Lake Tour: From Ogden to Echo and Weber Canons, on the 
main line of the Union Pacific Railway, and return. 

Sixth Salt Lake Tour: From Salt Lake City or Ogden to Utah Hot 
Springs and return. 

Seventh Salt Lake Tour: From Ogden to Willard Caiion and return. 

Eighth Salt Lake Tour: From Salt Lake City or Ogden to Pocatello. 





CALIFORNIA 
POINTS. 



LIFORNIA is a word of Spanish origin and means 
"hot furnace." The State is 770 miles long; its ex- 
. treme breadth is 330 miles and its least breadth is 150 
miles; it has an area of 160,000 square miles, or 100,- 
000,000 acres of territory. In 1542, Juan Rodriguez Ca- 
brillo, a Portuguese navigator in the service of Spain, 
landed on the coast of California, and was probably the 
first white man to visit the " Golden State." When the peninsula, now known 
as Southern California, was discovered in 1534, it was named California, and for 
upward of 200 years that was the California known to Europeans, although the 
name was also applied to the coast further north. The Franciscan friars, under 
Junipero Serra settled at San Diego in 1769. In 1821, California became a 
portion of independent Mexico, and afterward a territory under the Mexican 
Republican Government. On July 7, 1846, the American navy seized Mon- 
terey, the capital of Upper California, and American authority dates from that 
day. Gold was discovered in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, January 19, 

1848, and a month later Upper California was ceded by treaty to the United 
States. In fifteen months 100,000 people settled in the Territory; the first 
steamer arrived March 31, 1849. The constitution was signed October 30, 

1849, and California was admitted into the Union as a State, September 9, 1850. 



THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. 

The Yosemite Valley is readily reached from San Francisco or Lathrop, 
via Berenda or Milton Stations, on the Los Angeles line of the Southern Pacific 
Railroad. Berenda is on the main line of the Southern Pacific Railroad, 178 
miles from San Francisco, while Milton is on the Stockton & Copperopolis 
branch, which leaves the main line at Stockton, 103 miles from San Francisco. 
From Stockton to Milton the distance is thirty miles. From Berenda the San 
Joaquin Valley Division of the Southern Pacific Railroad runs to Raymond, 

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FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE, 



117 



twenty-one miles distant, where there is a large and commodious hotel, and 
from Raymond, via stage, to the park. From Berendaor Milton, there are regu- 
lar stages into the valley. The more preferable of the two, however, is the one 
from Berenda, although tourists frequently make the trip through from Beren- 
da to Milton, visiting en route both the Mariposa and Calaveras Big Tree 
Groves. The round trip from San Francisco or Lathrop to the Yosemite Val- 
ley and return to San Francisco can be made in four days. This includes a 
visit to the Mariposa grove of big trees, either going or returning, and 
enables the traveler to visit all the chief points of interest in the valley. 
The Yosemite Valley is the tourists' paradise of California and the Pa- 
cific coast, if not of the world. It can not be compared with Yellowstone 
National Park, because there are few points of similarity, and each is peer- 
less in its own way, No other scene or series of scenes in the world pre- 
sents the beauty of the one, or the wonderful features of the other. Having 
seen the one, the tourist should see the other. The Yosemite Valley is set 
apart as a park, and is dedicated to the sightseers of the world. The points of 
interest are El Capitan, Three Brothers, Washington Column, Cathedral Rocks, 
The Sentinel and Domes, Bridal Veil Falls, Yosemite Falls, Mirror Lake, and 
Cloud's Rest. The Yosemite Falls are composed of three cascades, the first 
being 1,500 feet, the second 600 feet, and the last 400 feet high. In the four 
days' trip from San Francisco or Lathrop, only two days can be had in the 
valley, which is only time enough to merely glance at the scenes of interest. A 
week or ten days should be spent. No pen, however graphic, can convey a 
correct idea of the lovely scenes which here enchant the eye. 

THE MARIPOSA AND CALAVERAS BIG TREES. 

The big trees which are visited en route to the Yosemite are well worth a 
visit. How they can be best reached is explained in the description of the 
Yosemite Valley. These trees are a marvelous sight. In the Mariposa group 
are 600 trees, of which 125 are over forty feet in circumference, and several are 
from ninety to one hundred feet. The Grizzly Giant, one of the monsters of 
this monster forest, sends out a limb which is six feet in diameter, at a height 
of ninety feet above the ground. The Calaveras group has one tree which is 
435 feet high, and no feet in circumference at the butt. The Calaveras trees 
are most accessible from Milton, the terminus of the Stockton & Copperopolis 
branch of the Southern Pacific Railroad, which runs from Stockton on the Los 
Angeles line to Milton, just north of Lathrop. From Milton, this group of 
trees is forty-seven miles distant. There are also some very large trees on 
King's River, forty-one miles from Visalia, which is reached via the Los 
Angeles line on the Southern Pacific Railroad, and the Visalia branch from 
Goshen. Goshen is 241 miles from San Francisco, and Visalia is fifteen miles 
distant from Goshen. 




(118) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 119 

LOS ANGELES, SANTA BARBARA, 

San Diego, Riverside, Santa Ana, and other cities and villages in Southern 
California are growing in favor with tourists, invalids, and travelers generally. 
They are beautiful in themselves and charming in surroundings. Embowered 
in vinesjt embellished with rare flowers and fringed with orchards producing 
delicious fruits, they present a most enchanting and restful sight. For a winter 
vacation visit, Southern California is unequaled in attractions. The climate, 
productions, and natural scenery combine to restore health to the invalid and 
give enjoyment to all. In the summer the trip is also pleasant, and should not 
be omitted from a tour of the Golden State. 

SAN FRANCISCO. 

San Francisco is the pleasure seeker's great city. Its mammoth hotels, 
palatial in appointments as well as spacious in dimensions, can accommodate 
thousands. No other city on the continent has such complete and ample hotels. 
Adjacent and easily and quickly reached are numerous places of interest to all 
travelers. A score of one-day trips can be made which bring the tourist to his 
San Francisco hotel every evening, and other longer journeys can be taken. 
The people of the city are hospitable, and have that generous disregard of 
expense which is so characteristic of California, and which lavishes money 
without stint upon public and private buildings, and in the adornment of grounds 
and surroundings. Every nation and every climate are represented in this 
most cosmopolitan of American cities, in the persons of her inhabitants and the 
products offered for sale in booths and buildings on her busy streets. 

The splendid metropolis of California and of the entire Pacific coast of 
America, though less than forty years old as a city, has a population to-day of 
nearly 400,000, with a commerce reaching out through its golden gate to all the 
nations of the earth, with roads of steel stretching away to the east, south, and 
north, and connecting it by a few days' travel with every part of the broad con- 
tinent; with great manufactories and markets for the sale and exchange of the 
fabrics and products of the civilized globe; and with the bright prospect of a 
growth and development which will bring it in a few more years to a rank 
among the great cities of the world. 

San Francisco is situated on the noble bay which bears its name, a bay which 
extends north and south for sixty miles, with a width of from four to six miles 
in the vicinity of the city, and forming a great inland sea. The ground for 
several blocks along the city front is "made ground," made from cutting down 
the sand hills in the early building of the city. Telegraph, Russian, Clay streets 
and California street (" Nob " Hill), will be noticed on the right, as the visitor 
approaches the city by ferry from the Oakland pier. On the left, and more dis- 
tant, he will see the outlines of the Mission hills, and by looking between these 
and nearly on a line with a huge bulk of the Palace Hotel, he sees in the dis- 



120 WESTERN RESORTS 

tance the " Twin Peaks." Market street, the great thoroughfare, starts from 
the landing place, from the ferry steamer, and stretches southwest direct 
toward these prominent landmarks. The climate of Saa Francisco is very 
equable, the temperature averaging about 66 degrees the year round, seldom 
going above 85° in summer or below 40° in winter. The trade winds, which 
blow during the summer months from the broad Pacific, usually commence 
about 1 1 o'clock a. m., and keep the temperature at a refreshing state of cool- 
ness, making San Francisco the most desirable summer resort of any city in the 
world, and forming a most pleasing contrast to the torrid heat which often pre- 
vails for weeks in the Eastern cities, no matter how far north they may be 
situated; while the winter, or "wet season," extending from October to April, 
corresponds to spring months in the Eastern and Middle States, with occasional 
rainy days, but often with weeks at a time of warm, bright, sunshiny days, the 
most perfect weather which can be imagined, with all the hills fresh and green, 
and in March, April, and May, covered with the greatest profusion of wild 
flowers. Visitors who come from the Eastern States, that is, from any State 
east of us, should remember that they will need warm heavy clothing here in 
summer as well as winter, as in summer the temperature in the morning up to 
II o'clock will often rise to 80° or 85°, and drop to 60° or 65° when the trade 
winds begin to blow. 

The street-car system is unexcelled. Over Jifty miles of cable-roads are in opera- 
tion, traversing all parts of the city, climbing the steep hills, affording the 
residents of the hilly sections easy and cheap communication with the business 
parts. A trip over the cable-roads affords the finest views which can be obtained 
of the city, bay, and surrounding country^ and is a pleasure trip indeed. The 
Market street cable system extends to the famous Cliff House, Ocean Beach, 
and Sutro Heights, through the beautiful Golden Gate Park. The California 
street cable-road runs up California street (or " Nob " Hill), where are situated 
magnificent residences. The United States Mint is on Fifth street, near Market, 
and is the largest mint m the world. The splendid plant of the Union Iron 
Works at the Potrero is well worth a visit and inspection, it being fully equal m 
all its appointments to any of the great ship-yards or iron works in the East, or 
on the Clyde, in Scotland. 

San Francisco is, and should be made, the centre from which to visit all the 
tourist resorts of California. It is an interesting city of itself, and will employ 
the time of the visitor profitably and agreeably for days. Its sail-flecked bay 
and the Golden Gate are a chapter of pleasing sights varied in aspect by the 
movements of the multitude of vessels .floating the flags of all nations. 

Among its many attractions the tourist must not neglect visiting the famous 
Cliff House, which commands a view of the Seal Rocks and the Golden Gate. 
The drive out to the Cliff House through the military post of Presidio and back 
through the park is one of the finest drives in the world. Excursions across its 
shining surface to the ocean, to San Rafael, etc., are enjoyable and frequent. 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 121 

From San Rafael the journey may be continued northward to Santa Rosa, 
Tomales, the Geysers, Cloverdale, and Clear Lake, passing on the return the 
Petrified Forest, Calistoga, St. Helena, Napa, and Vallejo. Oakland, the 
suburban city, in which reside many of the richest citizens of San Francisco, 
Mt. Diablo, the Sacramento River, Sacramento, Marysville, and Mt. Shasta, 
may all be visited at slight expense. Numerous — once famous — gold camps 
abound, and the stories of their rise to importance and decline to deserts, form 
many an interesting chapter in the tales of travelers to the Pacific coast. 
Southward lie Santa Clara, Pescadero, San Jose, Gilroy Springs, Pajaro, Santa 
Cruz, and Monterey, each charming in its own way. 

MONTEREY. 

Frequent trains and cheap rates have built up half a score of pleasure resorts 
south of San Francisco, but Monterey is conceded to be the most delightful. 
This little city overlooks the bay of the same name, and the natural beauty of 
its surroundings has been heightened by the expenditure of large sums of 
money in hotels, parks, drives, and baths. The Hotel Del Monte, at Monterey, 
is the finest tourists' hotel on the Pacific coast. Excursion tickets to Monterey 
and return are sold in San Francisco, and as the seaside hotel is but a few 
hours' ride from the city it is largely patronized. 

LAKE TAHOE. 

Associated closely with these distinctively Californian resorts is Lake Tahoe, 

which lies on the boundary between California and Nevada, half in each State. 
It is fourteen miles west of Carson City, the capital of Nevada, and about the 
same distance from Truckee, California, on the Central Pacific Railroad. This 
beautiful mountain lake is thirty-five miles long, fifteen miles wide, and 1,500 
feet deep. Its water is as clear as crystal and as cold as ice, and though stand- 
ing at an elevation of 6,700 feet above sea-level, and surrounded by mountains 
whose summits are white with snow nearly the whole year, it never freezes. A 
very pleasant side excursion trip for overland passengers can be made by leav- 
ing the Southern Pacific at Reno, proceeding via Virginia & Truckee Rail- 
road to Carson City, thence by stage to Lake Tahoe, across its surface by 
steamer, and return to the Southern Pacific by stage, at Truckee. On the same 
trip Bonanza mines at Tirginia City may be visited. This excursion is short 
and requires but little time. The lake can also be visited from Truckee, and 
passengers in haste to reach their destination need lose but one day. 

Note. — For further information see " Sights and Scenes in California," issued 
by the Passenger Department of the Union Pacific, and containing minute 
descriptions of points of interest and health resorts m California. 




Bridal Veil Falls, Yosemite Valley, California— reached via the Union Pacific Ry. 



(122) 




HEALTH. 



is easy to write an apostrophe to health, for every one knows that its 
value is above rubies. Yet almost wantonly, sometimes, it is sacrificed. 
Nature, however, has kindly decreed that rest shall restore it, and has so 
endowed a favored portion of her realm that weary mortals may gather there 
and have brought back to them in a measure the prize they cast away. The entire 
Rocky Mountain region is a sanitarium. It has the sun, the mountain breeze, the 
crisp, mild air, which combine to invigorate and heal. There is no magic in the 
springs, bursting and bubbling in the canons, though the ignorant, noting their 
cures, might well ascribe to them a magical power. There is no magic in the 
healing wrought by a mountain summer, yet it recalls the day when the weak 
were made strong by the laying on of hands. Simply marvelous are the 
transformations wrought by it. Its fame has gone abroad. And winter now 
is becoming entitled to a part of the honors. The West will soon be known 
as an all-the-year-round resort. It deserves to be thus known. The* haze 
of Indian summer lingers long into the autumn, and the balminess of early 
autumn gives way reluctantly for the moderate rigor of the holidays. 

The invalid reaches a point, especially if his trouble is pulmonary, where a 
trip, such as is suggested above, means a new lease of life to him. If he 
pauses, it will soon be too late. Past a certain stage, the higher altitude of the 
mountains will hasten a fatal termination, as surely as before that point is 
reached it will avert it. In reading preceding chapters, the thought will occur 
very properly that the outdoor life hinted at therein would be most conducive 
to sound health. Such is the case. All conditions are favorable to such a life. 
The beauties of Nature prompt it, and the climatic features make it agreeably 
possible. 

People are often puzzled to know why they are cured. What matters it so 
that they are cured? Still some analysis maybe interesting. The air of Denver, 
for instance, is exceedingly dry. Rain is rare. This air prevents matter which 
would ordinarily become putrid, from decaying. It acts in the same manner 
upon diseased lungs. More than this, a greater number of cubic inches must 
be taken in at every breath, resulting in an expansion of the chest. It also 
quickens circulation wonderfully, and is about the only stimulant that gives no 
baneful reaction. 

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124 



WESTERN RESORTS 



"The empire of climate," says Montesquieu, "is the most powerful of all 
empires." This airy empire has been the subject of many learned dissertations, 
not one of which is so convincing as the roses returning to the wannest cheek, or 
the dragging step once more light and buoyant. Probably the work of Chas. 
Denison, M. D., issued in 1880, is the most authentic ever published on the 
relations of climate and disease. Searching for the ideal clime for the pre- 
vention and cure of consumption, he selects the Rocky Mountain region. He 
gives his reasons for this, and defends them from the stronghold of science and 
experience. He cites the humid, low resorts of Florida and the Carolinas and 
Texas, and shows that in none of their advantages can they compete with their 
high and dry rivals. If possessing any advantages, they are enervating, and 
more apt to bring the entire system down than to build it up. Of absolute 
cures, there are none to place to their credit. There are many credited to the 
greater altitudes. The book referred to is full of tabular illustrations of the 
points it makes. 





HUNTING AND FISHING. 



|N writing of several places, there has been incidental mention of game, 
but the subject deserves more specific notice. There is no excitement 
so thrilling and healthful as that born of the chase, and when the tremor 
of expectation has marred the aim, and its object flies over the hills ex- 
ultant, it is genuine disappointment which follows. Hunting has been reduced to 
a science; but the amateur's first idea is to find his game, and, having found it, 
to blaze away for general -results. Until some skill has been acquired by prac- 
tice the results are apt to be extremely general, but never from lack of oppor- 
tunity. 

Antelopes are tempting, albeit their human-like eyes beg with mute eloquence 
from their liquid depths for life. To find them, be up early, and gun in hand, 
before the sun has risen; for two hours then will give more shots than all the 
remainder of the day, for it is then they are feeding, unconscious of danger. 
On the vast plains, where there is often no shrub, and where the level is like a 
floor, it would seem that their hiding was impossible; but there are many 
ravines in which they may be sheltered secure from any enemy. These same 
ravines permit the enemy to approach under cover. Antelope meat is sweet 
and tender, and really creates an appetite as it crisps over the camp fire, and 
sends its aroma to the outer edge of the circle of light. The flesh of the 
mountain sheep is regarded as superior to any other trophy of the hunt, not 
excepting that of elk and black-tailed deer, which, before the rare toothsome- 
ness of a juicy saddle, or the dripping ribs, of a young and tender mountain 
sheep, is found below par. The sheep may be chased into the wildest abyss, 
and to the loftiest mountain tops, these difficulties only tending to make the 
pursuit more attractive, and many to follow it would give up buffalo, antelope, 
elk, and deer. North Park is surrounded by such a formation as makes it a 
favorite place for this game. The immense horns and the bony forehead 
nature has given the animal often enables it to baffle the pursuer by hurling 
itself from giddy heights and alighting on the protecting frontal. Or it leaps 

(125) 



126 WESTERN RESORTS 

frightful chasms where no foot can follow, and if killed by an accurate bullet 
would only decompose far out of reach. 

Buffalo are now largely confined to the plains of Wyoming and Montana, 
far to the north ; but herds come down to within sixty miles of Cheyenne in 
winter, A hunter properly secreted can nearly annihilate a small herd, as the 
huge beasts only look around wonderingly when the one next to them is smitten 
to death. The only legitimate way to hunt them is from horseback, and 
how fascinating it is then all border legends tell. There is some danger in it; 
but to the hunter that danger is but an added charm. The most formidable 
antagonist to be met with is the grizzly bear, which inhabits the higher ranges 
of the Rocky Mountains. To meet it requires a steady hand and a stout heart. 
The best nerve and the best weapons are not invincible. Never fire at a 
grizzly unless a partner is near with rifle ready poised. To come- within 
the embrace of its mighty paws, which with one blow can break the back 
of an ox, is to be crushed. And yet there is nothing to which a Nim- 
rod will point with more pride than to a grizzly's robe, with a hole through the 
portion which had covered the heart. This bear may be found in autumn, 
among the raspberry patches; but the finder will usually steal quietly away. 
Ten to one he has not *' lost a bear." The cinnamon and common black 
variety attain great size, but they are lambs compared with their great cousin. 

The Western water-courses are most prolific of black-tailed deer, that come 
in little bands to drink just before sunrise or just after sunset. They are at 
home in an altitude which no other variety can endure, and graze in the highest 
parks near the summits. Generally, four or five are together. The hunter is 
lucky who bags more than one. It is lower down the mountain that the whistle 
of the elk is heard as he plunges through the forest, with his great horns laid 
back. It is a delightful sound to the sportsman, who steals up for a shot in the 
gray of the dawn. He must keep well hidden, for the eye of the elk is keen; 
and to the windward, for the scent is most acute. But by enough precaution a 
splendid shot is obtained and some magnificent bull bounds away in an instant, 
and falls with a crash — strong to the last. It is then that the sportsman exults. 

The time was, and not many years ago, that to enjoy this sport, long excur- 
sions were necessary by horse or wagon, but now the most perfect hunting and 
fishing grounds are reached by the divisions of the Union Pacific. 

Antelope are found on all the plains adjacent to the Union Pacific where 
there is any pasture. They abound in the parks of Colorado and Wyoming, 
and on the plains just east of the mountains. Jack-rabbits and smaller game 
are metwith in great numbers in the smoother portions of the mountains and on 
the prairies. Grizzly bear inhabit the more elevated peaks of the mountains, 
and are especially numerous in the Uintah and Wahsatch Ranges of Utah, 
Wyoming, and Montana. In Colorado and Idaho they lurk about the rougher 
defiles, near the timber line. Black and cinnamon bear, elk, black-tailed deer, 
mountain sheep, and mountain lions are common to all the higher regions of 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 127 

the range. In Montana and Wyoming occasionally mountain goats and buffalo 
are brought down. Ducks, geese, brant, and other water- fowl can be found on 
the shores of all the rivers and lakes in the regions traversed by the Union 
Pacific. Nearly all the mountain brooks and lakes abound in trout and other 
varieties of fish. The Snake River and other tributaries of the Columbia are 
filled with salmon. The angler can scarcely go amiss in any part of the region 
above named. Prairie chicken, sage-hen, quail, snipe, and other land-birds are 
abundant everywhere. Eagles are picked off the peaks of the Rockies occa- 
sionally. In short, the country tributary to the Union Pacific everywhere pre- 
sents attractions to the sportsman. Perhaps the most famous and favorite 
hunting-ground of North America to-day, is that portion of Wyommg lying 
north and south of Rock Creek and Rawlins. In that region can be found all 
varieties of game, from the mountain squirrel to the grizzly bear, and from the 
harmless beaver to the bellowing buffalo. Transportation thither can be 
engaged at Cheyenne, Laramie, Rock Creek, or Rawlins. Arrangements 
should be made for camping out, and from two to six weeks should be spent 
in the field to thoroughly enjoy the sport. The North Park of Colorado is 
another famous hunting-ground where the largest game abounds. Two hunters 
in one season brought fourteen large wagon-loads to market. They killed 500 
antelope and 250 elk. Herds of 500 elk are frequently seen. The Bear River 
country, in Idaho, Utah, and Wyoming, has been a glorious region for disciples 
of the gun and rod since the earliest days of its discovery. But, as said before, 
the hunter or fisherman can find rare sport in almost any portion of the terri- 
tory tributary to the Union Pacific. 

Mention has been made in these pages of fishing, but the following addi- 
tional matter will prove of interest to the lovers of the "gentle science." 

Among the several varieties of food-fish which are found in the streams of 
Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho, Montana, Utah, Oregon, and Washington may be 
mentioned speckled mountain brook trout, silver trout, black trout, common 
trout, bass, pike, pickerel, salmon, etc., some twenty-five or more species 
abounding in the Western water-courses. Particular attention is called to the 
speckled mountain brook trout, here so common, for it is considered the finest 
food-fish, as well as the " gamiest " of all the finny tribe, and consequently 
affords more sport to the angler. 

Fly fishing for trout is good during the months of July, August, September, 
and October. Bait fishing is generally good during the early summer. The 
angleworm is good bait the world over. Besides the artificial bait, which can 
be procured anywhere, nature provides an abundance of flies and worms along 
every stream, which the angler can readily find. 

Good trout-fields are found in Platte Canon, South Park, Middle Park, 
North Park and Estes Park; in Clear Creek Canon, Green Lake near George- 
town, and in Boulder Canon, all in Colorado; in Blackfoot Creek near Soda 
Springs, Idaho; in Yellowstone National Park, and in almost all the mountain 




(128) 



FOR HEALTH AND PLEASURE. 129 

Streams of Montana, Utah, Oregon, and Washington, particularly in the north- 
ern streams of Idaho, around Hailey, Ketchum, and Boise City. 

The trout, from its extreme beauty, delicacy of flavor, and extraordinary 
activity as a game fish, has attracted the attention of all classes of people, from 
the boy with a pin-hook to those who have swayed the destiny of an empire. 
The divine, the philosopher, the poet, the artist, and the statesman, from the 
earliest dates, have enjoyed many days of recreation in his pursuit, sang songs 
to his praise, or written pages of instruction of their own experience in taking 
him from his native element. 

There are three different methods pursued in the capture of the trout — 
angling at the top, with a natural or artificial fly, grasshopper, or other small 
insect; at the middle, with a minnow, shrimp, or similar small fish; and at the 
bottom, with a worm, or different kinds of pastes. 

Fly Fishing. — Flyfishing is usually practiced with a short, one-handed rod, 
from ten to twelve feet in length, or a two-handed rod from fifteen to eighteen 
feet in length. The first mentioned is the most common in use, and is calcu- 
lated for the majority of mountain streams, which are small and require but 
little length of rod or line. Attached to the rod should be a reel, containing 
from thirty to fifty yards of hair, grass, silk, or silk and hair line; the latter 
description should be used if it can be procured, tapering from the tenth of an 
inch almost to a point; to this should be attached a leader of from one to two 
yards in length; and finally the fly, on a light length of gut; if two or three 
flies are used, place them on a leader with short gut, about twenty-four inches 
apart. 

The latter description of rod is used in larger streams, where it is necessary 
to throw a great distance; for this purpose the reel should be large enough to 
contain loo yards of line, with the other tackle precisely the same as with the 
smaller rod. It should be recollected that the trout rods should be made sim- 
ilar to the salmon rods, and of the lightest woods. 

Minnow Fishing. — The rod used in this kind of angling is from twelve to 
sixteen feet in length, with a stiffer top than that used for fly fishing, and goes 
under the name of a bait-rod. The smaller, say twelve feet, for small wading 
streams, and the longer for wider and deeper waters. Attached should be an 
American reel, holding from thirty to fifty yards of American laid-grass or silk 
line, with from two to three yards of silkworm gut, terminating with a Limerick 
hook, from number two to five, according to the size of the bait, fastened by a 
loop as before described. For baiting the minnow, pass the hook in at the 
mouth and out at the gills, then in again at the commencement of the dorsal fin 
and out again just beyond, tying the hook at each end with a piece of thin silk 
or thread. By this method a live minnow can be kept animated for a great 
length of time. 

Worm Fishing. — This is, and has been, from the earliest periods, the stand- 
ard mode of trout angling. It is practiced principally at the opening and clos- 



130 



WESTERN RESORTS 



ing of the season by anglers generally. The rod generally used is from twelve 
to fifteen feet in length for small streams, and from fifteen to twenty feet 
(according to circumstances) for the larger. The reel, and other appurtenances, 
should be similar to that described for minnow fishing. 

The various fish commissioners who have supervision of the public waters, 
and the collection, propagation, culture, and distribution of fish, have done 
much to increase the numbers, varieties, and improve the quality of fish in the 
Western waters. 




POINTS OF INTEREST REACHED BY THE UNION PACIFIC. 



Ames Monument — Main Line — Wyoming (See Trip Across the Continent.) 

Hippopotamus Rock — Main Line — Wyoming.. •' " « 

Snow Sheds — Main Line — Wyoming " '< " 

Dale Creek Bridge — Main Line — Wyoming... " " " 

Echo Canon — Main Line — Utah " " " 

Weber Canon — Main Line — Utah " «' " 

Pulpit Rock — Main Line — Utah " " " 

Devil's Slide — Main Line — Utah " " " 

Witch Rocks — Main Line — Utah " " " 

Jack-m-the-Pulpit — Main Line — Utah " " " 

Idaho Springs (See Colorado Points.) 

Georgetown " " 

Central City.... " 

Green Lake " " 

The Loop " " 

Graymont " " 

Breckenridge " " 

Dome Rock .' " " 

Cathedral Spires " " 

Sunset " " 

Boulder " " 

Fort Collins " " 

Loveland , " " 

Hot Sulphur Springs " " 

Kenosha Hill " " 

Mount of the Holy Cross " " 

The Palisades " " 

The Three Tetons (See Yellowstone National Park.) 

Fire Hole Basin '* " 

Camas Meadows " " 

Henry's Lake " ** 

Manly's Cabin " " 

Tyghee Pass " " 

Continental Divide ** " 

(131) 



lo2 WESTERN RESORTS 

Great Shoshone Falls (See Idaho Points.) 

American P'alls " " 

Locomotive Cave " " 

Soda Springs " " 

Guyer Hot Springs . " " 

Hailey Hot Springs " " 

Mt. Hood (See Dalles of the Columbia.) 

Multnomah Falls " 

Hell Gate " 

Memaloose Isle " " " 

Oneonta Falls " " " 

Castle Rock " 

Rooster Rock " " " 

Cape Horn " 

Crater Lake (See Oregon Points.} 

Ft. Vancouver " " " 

Mt. Shasta (See Mt. Shasta Route.) 

The Rogue River Valley " " 

The Siskiyous *' " 

Great Salt Lake (See Utah Points.) 

Garfield Beach " 

Ogden Canon " " " 

Utah Hot Springs " 

Willard Canon " 

Syracuse Beach " " " 

Giant's Cave " 

Warm Sulphur Springs " " " 

Beck's Hot Springs " 

Mt. Nebo " 

Yosemite Valley (See California Points.) 

Mariposa and Calaveras Big Trees " " " 

Lake Tahoe " 

Tacoma (See Portland to Puget Sound.) 

Seattle " 

Port Townsend " " " 

Victoria " " " 

Astoria (See Lower Columbia.) 

Ilwaco " " " 

Clatsop Beach " " " 



Elevations of Principal Mountain Cities, Peaks and Passes. 



COLORADO. 



CITIES AND TOWNS 

Alpine 

Alpine Tunnel.. . . 

Black Hawk 

Boreas 

Boulder 

Breckenridge 

Buena Vista 

•Central City ... 

Denver 

Dillon 

Dome Rock . . . . 
Estabrook Park . . 

Ft. Collins 

■Georgetown 

Golden 

Greeley 

Gunnison 

Haywood Springs 
Idaho Springs. . . . 

Keystone , . .' 

Leadville 



ELEVATION. 



• 9.247 
.11.596 

8.032 

.11,470 

. 5.335 

• 9.524 

■ 7,943 
8,503 

■ 5.170 
. 8,805 
. 6,199 

• 7,547 

• 4,972 
. 8,476 
. 5.655 
. 4,637 
, 7,649 
. 8,093 

• 7,543 
. 9.159 
.10,185 



PEAKS. ELEVATION. 

Antero 14, 245 

Arapahoe 13,520 

Audubon 13, I73 

Bald 11,493 

Blanca 14,464 

Byers 12,778 

Ethel 1 1 ,976 

Evans ...14,321 

Gray's .14,441 

Hahn's 10,906 

Harvard 14.375 

Holy Cross 14,176 

Irwin's 14,336 

James 13,283 

Long's .14,271 

Massive 14,298 

Monitor 1 1,270 

Princeton 14,196 

Pike's 14,147 

Rosalie 14,340 

Yale 14,187 

Uncompahgre 14,419 



Alpine 

Argentine . . . 
Berthoud . . . . 
Boulder . . . . . 
Breckenridge . 
Cochetopa . . . 
Cunningham. 
Fremont . . . 

Georgia 

Gove 

Hamilton . . . 
Hayden . . . . 
Hoosier. . . . 
Lake Fork . . . 
Loveland. . . . 
Marshall . . . 

Poncho 

Raton 

Tarryall . . . . , 
Trout Creek. . 
Tennessee . . . 
Veta , 



ELEVATION. 
. . . .12,124 
13,100 

14,349 

. . . . 11,670 

11,560 

. . . .10,032 
. . 12,090 

...11,325 

II, 811 

9,500 

12,370 

. ...10,780 

11,500 

12,540 

11,500 

10.852 

.... 8,945 
.... 7,863 
. . . .12,176 

... 9,346 
. . . .10,700 

9,339 



OREGON. 



PEAKS. 

Crater Lake 

Diamond Peak . . . 
Granite Mountain 



ELEVATION. 

7,143 

8.807 

8,990 



PEAKS. ELEVATION. 

Mt. Hood 11,225 

Mt. Pitt 9,818 

Mt. Scott 9,016 



PEAKS. ELEVATION. 

Mt. Timber 7,519 

Sugar-loaf iSlountain. . . . 8,415 
Union Peak 7, 298 



WASHINGTON. 



PEAKS. 

Mt. Adams 

Mt. Baker 

Mt. Constance 



ELEVATION. 

9,750 

11,100 

7,777 



PEAKS. ELEVATION. 

Mt. JefTerson 5,657 

Mt. Olympus 8, 138 

Mt. fikomegan 8,400 



PEAKS. ELEVATION. 

Mt. St. Helen's 9,750 

Mt. Tacoma 14, 444 



IDAHO. 



Antelope Peak. . . 
Bannock Peak. . 

Blackfoot H.. 

Boise City 

Bonanza City. . . 

Cache Peak 

Cante Rock 

East Malade Mt. 



ELEVATION. 
7,280 

8,359 

4,503 

2,885 

6,400 

10,451 

9,610 

9.332 



ELEVATION. 

Estes 10,050 

Galena 7, 900 

Grand Teton 13,691 

Idaho City 4. 623 

Lewiston 680 

Lone Cove 9,246 

Meade Peak 10,541 

Mount Caribon 9,695 



ELEVATION. 

Mount Garfield 9,704 

Mount Oxford 9.386 

Mount Preuss 9,979 

Mount Sherman 9,572 

Oxford 4,766 

Sawtelles Peak 10,013 

Saw Tooth 7,000 

Soda Springs 5, 780 



UTAH. 



Adams Head . . . 
Anderson Peak. . 
Bald Mountains. 
Blue Mountain. . 

Bruin Point 

Burro Peak. . . . 
Claytons Peak . . 

Cox Peak 

Frances Point. . . 
Gilberts Peak . . . 
Heber Mountain 
LaMotte Peak . . 

Lone Peak 

Logan 

Mount Bangs 
Mount Belknap . 



ELEVATION. 

10,360 

10,710 

11,730 

11,071 

, 10,150 

12,834 

11,8 

13.250 

10,430 

13,687 

10,138 

12,892 

I'. 295 

4,497 

10,250 

12,200 



ELEVATION. 

Mount Brian 11,178 

Mount Dalton 10,480 

Mount Delano 12,240 

Mount Ellen 11,410 

Mount Emmons 13,694 

Mount Harry 11,300 

Mount Hodges 13, 500 

Mount Horeb 10,920 

Mount Marvine 11,600 

Mount Nebo 11,992 

Mount Pennell 11,320 

Mount Stevenson 10,840 

Mount Waas 12,561 

Midget Crest 11 .414 

Monroe Peak 11,240! 

(133) 



ELEVATION. 

Musinia Peak 10,940 

North Logan Peak 10,004 

Ogden 4,301 

Pilot Peak 10,900 

Point Carbon 1 1,443 

Provo Peak 1 1 ,066 

Salt Lake City 4.260 

Silver City 6,033 

Table Cliff 10,070 

Terrell's Ridge 11,380 

Tockewanna Peak 13,458 

Tomasaki Mountain . . . .12,271 

Tooele Peak 10,396 

Twin Peak 1 1 , 563 

Wilsons Peak . 13,235 



ELEVATION OF PRINCIPAL PEAKS— Continued. 

SOME YELLOWSTONE PARK ELEVATIONS. 



El-liVATION. 

Amethyst Mountain 9.423 

Baronettes Peak 10, 459 

Beaver Lake 7.415 

Beulah Lake 7.53" 

Bison Peak 9,038 

Bunsen Peak 8,775 

Crater Hills 7,820 

Dunraven Peak 9,988 

Elephant's Back 8,884 

Flat Mountain 9,200 

Gardner River Springs . . 6,500 

Garnet Hill 7,I77 

Gibbon Geyser 7,527 

Gibbon Lake 7,838 

Grizzly Mountain 9,982 

Haystack Mountain. ... 7,689 



ELEVATION. 

Heart Lake 7.475 

Hell Roaring Mountain . 8,418 

Herring Lake 7,53o 

Lake Lewis 7,800 

Lower Geyser Basin .... 7,250 

Mary's Lake 8,336 

Mt. Chittenden 10,190 

Mt. Doane 10,713 

Mt. Evarts 7,600 

Mt. Holmes 10,528 

Mt. Langford 10,779 

Mt. Norris 10,019 

Mt. Sheridan 10,385 

Mt. Stevenson 10,420 

Mt. Washburne 10,346 

Mud Geysers 7.725 



ELEVATION. 

North Twin ]5utte (Lr. Basin) 7,976 

Pelican Hill 9,580 

Promontory 'lop 8, 706 

Quadrant Mountain 10,127 

Red Mountains 9,777 

Riddle Lake 8,oao 

Shoshone Geyser Basin. . 7,837 

Shoshone Lake 7.83a 

Smoothface Mountain. . . 10,50a 

Soda Hill 9,518 

South Twin Butte 7,977 

Specimen Ridge 8,806 

Turrett Mountain 1 1 , 142 

Upper Geyser Basin .... 7,400 
Yellowstone Lake 7,735 



WYOMING. 



PEAKS. ELEVATION. 

Fremont's Peak 13,79° 

Snow's Peak I3,570 

Mt. Hooker 12,900 

Wind River Peak 13, 499 

Atlantic Peak 12,794 

West Atlantic Peak 12,634 

Mt. Genie 12, 54^ 

Mt. Moran 12,800 

Washakie Needle 12,253 

Medicine Peak 12,231 

Mt. Chauvenet 13,000 



I'EAKS. ELEVATION. 

Inde.x Peak 11,702 

Younts Peak 11, 700 

Union Peak ii,593 

Wyoming Peak iii49o 

Elk Mountain ir.511 

Delham Peak 11,524 

Coffin Mountain 11,376 

Chimney Rock 11,853 

Grosventre Peak ii,57o 

Mt. Leidy Il,i77 

Laramie Peak 11 ,000 



PEAKS. ELEVATION. 

Gd. Encampment Mt'n. .11,003. 

Mill Peak 10,506 

Sailor Mountain 10,046 

Virginia Peak 10,044 

Volcanic Comb 10,583 

Hobock Peak 10,818 

Mt. Baird 9,99o 

Bald Mountain 9,897 

Bradley's Peak 9, 500 

Young's Peak 9,000 



MONTANA. 



CITIES AND TOWNS. 

Helena 

Butte 

Deer Lodge. . . ., 
Virginia City. . . , 

Missoula 

Argenta 

Bozeman 



BLEVATION. 

3,930 

.... 5,482 

4,527 

2,824 

3,900 

.... 6,337 

. . . , 4,900 



PEAKS. ELEVATION. 

Bridger's 9,000 

Emigrant 10,629 

Electric 10,992 

Liberty 9, 162 

Blackmore 10, 134 

Delano 10, 200 

Sphinx 10,880 



PASSES. ELEVATION. 

Deer Lodge 5, 808 

Flathead 6, 769 

Bridger 6,147 

Lewis and Clarke 6,323 

Little Blackfoot 6,250 

Mullen 5.98a 

Madison 6,911 



CALIFORNIA. 



PEAKS. ELEVATION. 

Mt. Adams 8,431 

Mt. Anderson g.coo 

Mt. Bidwell 8,551 

Bruin Pass 10,150 

Mt. Brewer 13,8 

Castle Peak 12,500 

Clark Peak 11,295 

Conner's Peajc 12,518 

Mt. Corcoran 14, ©93 

Coryo Peak 11,326 

Mt. Dana 13.227 

Dunderberg Peak 12,289 

Echo Peak 11,231 

Mt. Elephant 10,418 

Fisherman's Peak 14.448 



PEAKS. ELEVATION.! 

Grizzly Peak 11,723 

Highland Peak 10,956 

Hoffman Peak 10,872 

Kaweah Peak 14,000 

Lasseus Butte 10,577 

Mt. Lyell 13,217 

McBride's Peak I3,44i 

Mt. Merde 10,540 

Meadow Mountain ii,734 

Mt. Merced Ii,4i3 

Olancho Peak 12,250 

Pyramid Mountain 10,127 

Red State Peak. 13,400 

San Antonio Peak 10,191 



PEAKS. ELEVATION. 

San Bernardino Mt 11, 60a 

.San Jacinto 10,987 

Mt. Shasta 14,442 

Mt. Silliman 11,623 

Mt. Silver 10,934 

Sonora Mountain 11,478 

Stevens Mountain 10,011 

Sunday Peak 11, 089 

Sweetwater Mountain . . .11,778 
Telescope Mountain .... 10,937 

Mt. Washington 10,802 

Waucoba Peak 11,267 

Mt. Whitney 14.898 

Woods Peak 10,553 



ALASKA. 



PEAK. ELEVATION. [PEAK. ELEVATION. PEAK. ELEVATION 

Mt. Cook i5,9ootoi6,oooMt. St. Elias. . .17.854 to 19,500 Mt. Fairweather 14,708 



1 to I5^5oa 



5^ 



(134) 



STANDARD PUBLICATIONS 

BY THE 

PASSENGER DEPARTMENT OF THE UNION PACIFIC RY. 



The Passenger Department of the Union Pacific Railway will take pleasure in forwarding to any 
address, free of charge, any of the following publications, provided that with the application is inclosed 
the amount of postage specified below for each publication. All of these books and pamphlets are 
fresh from the press, many of them handsomely illustrated, and accurate as regards the region of 
country described. They will be found entertaining and instructive, and invaluable as guides to and 
authority on the fertile tracts and landscape wonders of the great empire of the West. There is infor- 
mation for the tourist, pleasure and health seeker, the investor, the settler, the sportsman, the artist, 
and the invalid. 

The Western Resort Book. Send 6 cents for postage. 

This is a finely illustrated book describing the vast Union Pacific system. Every health resort, moun- 
tain retreat, watering-place, hunter's paradise, etc., etc., is depicted. This book gives a full and 
complete detail of all tours over the line, starting from Sioux City, Council Bluffs, Omaha, St. 
Joseph, Leavenworth, or Kansas City, and contains a complete itinerary of the journey from either 
of these points to the Pacific Coast. 

Sights and Scenes. Send 2 cents postage for each pamphlet. 

There are five pamphlets in this set, pocket-folder size, illustrated, and are descriptive of tours to 
particular points. The set comprises "Sights and Scenes in Colorado; " Utah; Idaho and Blontana; 
California; Oregon, Washington, and Alaska. Each pamphlet deals minutely with every resort 
of pleasure or health within its assigned limit, and will be found bright and interesting reading for 
tourists. 

Facts and Figures. Send 2 cents postage for each pamphlet. 

This is a set of three pamphlets, containing facts and figures relative to Kansas, Nebraska, and 
Colorado respectively. They are more particularly meant for intending settlers in these fertile 
States, and will be found accm-ate in every particular; there is a description of all important towns. 

Vest Pocket Memorandum Book. Send 2 cents for postage. 

A handy, neatly gotten-up little memorandum book, very useful for the farmer, business man, 
traveler, and tourist. 

Calendar, 1890. Send 6 cents for postage. 

An elegant Calendar for the year 1890, suitable for the office and counting-room. 

Comprehensive Pamphlets. Send 6 cents postage for each pamphlet. 

A set of pamphlets on Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, Idaho, Oregon, and Washington. 
These books treat of the resources, climate, acreage, minerals, grasses, soil, and products 
of these various empires on an extended scale, entering very fully upon an exhaustive treatise of 
the capabilities and promise of the places described. They have been very carefully compiled, and 
the information collated from Official Reports, actual settlers, and residents of the different 
States and Territories. 

Theatrical Diary. Send 10 cents for postage. 

This is a Theatrical Diary for 1890-91, boimd in Tiu-key Morocco, gilt tops, and contains a list 
of 255 theatres and opera houses reached by the Union Pacific system, seating capacity, size of 
stage, terms, newspapers in each town, etc., etc. This Diary is intended only for the theatrical 
profession. 

Commercial Salesman's Expense Book. Send 2 cents for postage. 

A neat vest-pocket memorandum book for 1890— dates, cash accoimts, etc., etc. 



Outdoor Sports aud Pastimes. Send 2 cents for postage. 

A carefully coinpiletl iianiphlet of some thirty pages, giving the complete niles of this year, for 
Lawn Tenuis, Base Ball, Croquet, Racquet, Cricket, Quoits, La Crosse, Polo, Curling, Foot Ball, 
etc., etc. There are also diagrams of a Lawn Tennis court and Base Ball diamond. This pamphlet 
will be found especially valuable to lovers of these games. 

Map of tlie United States. Send 25 cents for postage. 

A large wall map of the United States, complete in every particular, and compiled from the latest 
survej-s; just published; size, 40x06 inches; railways, counties, roads, etc., etc. 

Stream, Sound and Sea. Send 2 cents for iiostage. 

A neat, illustrated pamphlet descriptive of a trip from The Dalles of the Columbia to Portland, 
Ore., Astoria, Clatsop Beach; through the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the waters of the Puget 
Sound, and up the coast to Alaska. A handsome pamphlet containing valuable information for 
the tourist. 

Wonderful Story. Send 2 cents for postage. 

The romance of railway building. The wonderful story of the earlj' surveys and the building of 
the Union Pacific. A paper by General G. BL Dodge, read before the Society of the Army of the 
Tennessee, September, 1888. General Sherman pronounces this document fascinatingly interesting 
and of great historical value, and vouches for its accuracy. 

Gun Club Rules and Revised Game Liaws. Send 2 cents for postage. 

This valuable publication is a digest of the laws relating to game in all the Western States and 
Territories. It also contains the various gun-club niles, together with a guide to all Western 
localities where game of whatsoever description may be found. Every sportsman should have one. 

"The Oldest Inhabitant." Send 10 cents for postage. 

This is a buffalo head in Sepia, a very artistic studj' from life. It is characterized by strong draw- 
ing and wonderful fidelity. A very handsome acquisition for parlor or library. 

Crofutt's Overland Guide, No. 1. Send $1.00. 

This hook has just been issued. It graphically describes eveiy point, giving its histoiy, population, 
business resources, etc., etc., on the Une of the Union Pacific Raihvay, between the Missouri 
River and the Pacific Coast, and the tourist should not start West without a copy in his posses- 
sion. It furnishes in one volume a complete guide to the country traversed by the Union Pacific 
system, and can not fail to be of great assistance to the tourist in selecting his route, and obtain- 
ing complete information about the points to be visited. 

A Glimpse of Great Salt Liake. Send 4 cents for postage. 

This is a charming description of a yachting cruise on the mysterious inland sea, beautifully illustra- 
ted with original sketches by the well-known artist, Mr. Alfred Lambourne, of Salt Lake City. The 
startling phenomena of sea and cloud and light and color are finely portrayed. This book touches a 
new region, a voyage on Great Salt Lake never before having been described and pictured. 

General Folder. No postage required. 

A carefully revised General Folder is issued regularly every month. This publication gives con- 
densed through lime tables; through car service; a first-class map of the United States, west of 
Chicago and St. Louis; important baggage and ticket regulations of the LTnion Pacific Railway, 
thus making a valuable compendium for the traveler and for ticket agent in selling through tickets 
over the Union Pacific Railway. 

The Pathfinder. No postage required. 

A book of some fifty pages devoted to local time cards; containing a complete list of stations with 
the altitude of each; also connections with Western stage lines and ocean steamships; through car 
service; baggage and Pullman Sleeping Car rates and the principal ticket regulations, which will 
prove of great value as a ready reference for ticket agents to give passengers information about the 
local branches of the Union Pacific Railway. 

Alaska Folder. No postage required. 

This Folder contains a brief outline of the trip to Alaska, and also a correct map of the Northwest 
Pacific Coast, from Portland to Sitka, Alaska; showing the route of vessels to and from this new and 
almost unknown coimtrj". 



APPENDIX. 




recent acquisition of the Denver, Texas & Fort Worth Railway, 
nion Pacific System controls an imperial domain extending from 
ne mountain heights of Colorado to the Gulf, of Mexico, and its 
patrons have the choice of any altitude, and all possible condi- 
tions of climate and atmosphere. Almost every phase of 
,^^gi,,,^ American scenery, every sharp contrast from the Heart 
of the Rockies to the " Palms of the South," can be seen 
on the many divisions of this great road, the Union Pacific, 
the original overland route. 

Taking Denver to be the local point, which indeed it is 
and always will be for the State of Colorado, the first place of impor- 
tance on this new division is 



COLORADO SPRINGS, COLORADO, 

Seventy-three miles south. The ride from Denver to Colorado Springs is one 
of the most charming in Colorado. While moving through a beautiful valley 
which gives evidence of fine cultivation, there are on either side magnificent 
views of peculiarly majestic scenery. We are almost under the shadows of the 
very " Prince of the Range," and in the presence of the most impressive pano- 
rama in the Rocky Mountains; to the far south, the Spanish Peaks and the 
lesser brotherhood of snow-crowned summits loom and fade, and fad'^ and 
loom, through the tranquil summer air, like the baseless fabric of a dream. The 
mountain wall close at hand, the vivid green in the near foreground, and the 
distant vision of ever-lengthening, receding sentinel peaks seems like a view 
from an enchanted valley. 

Colorado Springs is essentially a home resort. There are more people who 
have summer homes here than in any of the other frequented places in Colo- 
rado. There are good hotels in abundance, and any number of attractive 
boarding-houses; but such is the beauty and salubrity of the place, that visitors 
who arrive here make up their minds to stay for the entire season, and, as a 
result, they gather about them the essentials of home life and home comfort. 
There are no factories of any sort in Colorado Springs — nothing to take away 
from its quiet, secluded beauty. The streets are broader than is usual in most 

(137) 



138 APPENDIX, 

cities, and lined with shade-trees. The town has about 10,000 people, is well 
lighted and paved, and possesses all the modern equipments for luxury and 
comfort in living. 

A few miles distant from Colorado Springs, and connected by two lines of 
railway and street cars, is world-famous , 

MANITOU, COLORADO. 

Everyone has heard of it, hundreds of thousands have been there, and 
thousands more each succeeding summer wend their way to this queen of 
mountain resorts. For Manitou possesses a charm which lingers — a magic 
spell which comes unbidden to haunt the traveler who has once rested under 
her witching glamour. 

In the first place, then, just a few practical details before we enter upon the 
poetry of the place and the glory of her environment. Manitou lies in a cup- 
like glen, surrounded by mountains, and has for an impressive background, 
high above the surrounding summits, the lonely majesty of Pike's Peak. 
Its regular inhabitants number perhaps 1,500 or 2,000; there are two 
electric-light plants in full working order, and three miles of streets lighted by 
the arc light; a beautiful avenue eighty feet wide runs through the village. 
On either side of this avenue, on the mountain-side, may be seen numberless 
mansions, villas, and cottages. These residences are peculiarly elegant in 
design and construction. In the very center of the town are the springs, 
inclosed within pleasure-grounds, sparkling and bubbling from their hidden 
reservoirs. Hotels there are in profusion; boarding-houses, cottages, almost 
any kind of a retreat, sanctuary, or home that a traveler may desire. 

The environment of Manitou is really remarkable for its extent and variety. 
There is a surfeit of walks, rides, and drives: The ascent to the summit of 
Pike's Peak, Glen Eyrie, Queen's Caiion, Devil's Punch-Bowl, Cheyenne 
Canon, and Seven Falls; Petrified Trees, Monument Park, with the Mammoth 
Anvil, Dutch Wedding, Vulcan Workshop, and Dunce's Parliament; Ruxton's 
Glen, Iron Spring, and Ute Pass — all these and more. And yet there remains 
the one spot, the Erectheum of the place, 

THE GARDEN OF THE GODS. 

Perhaps no American writer of recent times has pictured Colorado scenery 
so lovingly, so truthfully, and with such finished skill as Ernest IngersoU. He 
owns quite frankly that an accurate description of this " ruinous perfection '' 
is almost hopeless. In the " Crest of the Continent," he says: "There is the 
"Garden of the Gods, hidden behind those garish walls of red and yellow sand- 
" stone, so stark and out of place in the soberly-toned landscape that they 
" travesty Nature, converting the whole picture into a theatrical scene, and a 
" highly spectacular one at that. 



APPENDIX. 13^ 

" Passing behind the sensational walls, one is not surprised to find a sort of 
" gigantic peep-show in pantomime. The solid rocks have gone masquerad- 
" ing in every sort of absurd costume and character. The colors of the make- 
"up, too, are varied from black through all the brown and drabs to pure white, 
" and then again through yellows and buffs and pinks up to staring red. Who 
" can portray adequately these odd forms of chiseled stone? I have read a dozen 
"descriptions, and so have you, no doubt. But one I have just seen in a letter 
"by a Boston lady is so pertinent, that you shall have the pleasure of reading 
"it: 'The impression is of something mighty, unreal, and supernatural. Of 
" 'the Gods, surely, but the Gods of the Norse Walhalla in some of their strange 
" 'outbursts of wild rage or uncouth playfulness. The beauty-loving divinities 
"'of Greece and Rome could have nothing in common with such sublime awk- 
"'wardness. Jove's ambrosial curls must shake in another Olympia than this. 
"'Weird and grotesque, but solemn and awful at the same time, as if one stood 
"'on the confines of another world and soon the veil would be rent which 
" 'divided them.' Words are worse than useless to attempt such a picture. Per- 
" haps, if one could live in the shadow of its savage grandeur for months until 
" his soul was permeated, language would begin to find itself flowing in proper 
"channels, but in the first stupor of astonishment one must only hold his breath. 
" The garden itself, the holy of holies, as most fancy, is not so overpowering 
" to me as the vast outlying wildness. 

" To pass in between massive portals of rock, of brilliant terra-cotta red, 
" and enter on a plain, miles in extent, covered in all directions with magnifi- 
" cent isolated masses of the same striking color, each lifting itself against the 
" wonderful blue of a Colorado sky with a sharpness of outline that would 
"shame the fine cutting of an etching; to find the ground under your feet, over 
" the whole immense surface, carpeted with the same rich tint, underlying 
"arabesques of green and gray, where grass and mosses have crept; to come 
" upon masses of pale, velvety gypsum, set now and again as if to make more 
" effective by contrast the deep red which strikes the dominant chord of the 
"picture; and always, as you look through or above, to catch the stormy bil- 
" lows of the giant mountain range, tossed against the sky, with the regal, snow- 
" crowned massiveness of Pike's Peak rising over all, is something, once seen, 
" never to be forgotten. Strange, grotesque shapes, mammoth caricatures of 
" animals, clamber, crouch, or spring from vantage points hundreds of feet in 
" air. Here a battlemented wall is pierced by a round window; there a cluster 
"of slender spires lift themselves; beyond, a leaning tower slants through the 
"blue air, or a cube as large as a dwelling-house is balanced on a pivot-like 
" point at the base, as if a child's strength could upset it. Imagine all this, 
" scintillant with color, set under a dazzling sapphire dome, with the silver stems 
" and delicate frondage of young cottonwoods in one space, or a strong young 
" hemlock lifting green symmetrical arms from some high rocky cliff in another. 




U40J 



APPENDIX. 141 

"This can be told; but the massiveness of sky-piled masonry, the almost 
" infernal mixture of grandeur and grotesqueness, are beyond expression. After 
" the first few moments of wild exclamation one sinks into an awed silence. The 
" reader must see for himself these grotesque monuments, these relics of ruined 
" strata, these sportive, wind-cut ghosts of the old regime, these fanciful images 
'• of things seen and unseen, which stand thickly over hundreds of acres like the 
" mouldering ruins of some half-buried city of the desert, if he would fully 
"understand." 

Going southward from Colorado Springs, a series of grand perspectives 
attract and charm the tourist. Nature here is in her most majestic mood; there 
is little of tenderness or delicate carving; these ghastly rents and seams are 
tragic, and the grandeur of these mountain gorges is terrible and awesome, 
rather than beautiful. Some of these lonely spots remind one of Dore's appall- 
ing pictures of the " Inferno." 

The next town of prominence is 

PUEBLO, COLORADO, 

A city born to greatness, for it possesses untold advantages. In the first place, 
Pueblo has a lower altitude than any city or farming community in the State, 
being 4,660 feet above sea-level. Surrounding it is an immense tract of country 
susceptible of raising all kinds of fruits, cereals, and vegetables. There are 
thousands of acres of rich land within a short distance of the city, which are 
now utilized by the stock-raisers. The city stands on the site of an old Mexi- 
can village, and is situated on both sides of the Arkansas River. It" has a 
population of about 30,000. The city presents a metropolitan appearance. 
Handsome brick and stone business blocks, and public buildings, and elegant 
residences are to be seen on every side. There are eighteen churches in Pueblo, 
eight schools, six banks, and eighteen hotels. The Methodist College, and the 
State Insane Asylum are located here. 

But it is as a manufacturing center that Pueblo is destined to become 
famous. Here are located the great Bessemer steel-works, and some of the 
largest ore stamping, smelting, and refining works in the State; in addition, 
there are railway car and machine shops, foundries, and flour-mills. The 
reasons for a lively faith in the future prosperity of Pueblo are easily shown: 
The town is close at hand to vast mineral fields which are easily worked; it 
has excellent railroad facilities; living is cheap, and constant employment can 
be given to thousands of men. The steel-works and refineries will, in the near 
future, be supplemented by other like industries. 

The climate here is mild and pleasant in the winter; it is warm during the 
daytime in summer, but always cool at night. There is a splendid mineral 
spring on the east side of the city, charged with iron, carbonate of lime, white 
sulphur, magnesia, and potassium; the water is also strongly magnetic. These 



142 APPENDIX. 

springs are especially recommended for rheumatism, kidney complaints, and 
similar diseases. There is a good hotel at the springs; boarding-houses and 
numerous cottages at reasonable rental. This charming resort is known as 
*' Clark's Magnetic Mineral Spring " 

TRINIDAD, COLORADO, 

Is 215 miles from Denver, and the largest city in extreme Southern Colorado. 
It has a population of over 10,000, and an altitude of 6,250 feet above sea-level. 
Scientific experts tell us that Trinidad is situated in the center of the richest 
coal-belt in the world; it is the supply depot for all the coke used in adjacent 
territory. Iron is found in immense quantities in the immediate vicinity; gyp- 
sum, granite, alum, and fine building stone are also close at hand. Thus sur- 
rounded by mineral wealth, unlimited and inexhaustible, Trinidad's destiny as 
a great manufacturing point is a foregone conclusion. Among the more impor- 
tant industries now in operation, may be mentioned the manufacture of min- 
eral paint, lime, plaster of Paris, and fire-brick. Between 3,000 and 4,000 men 
now find employment in and around the city. The town has water-works, gas, 
and electric-light, street-cars, and all metropolitan improvements. 

It is not generally known that Trinidad is the center of the wool trade in 
Colorado, the annual shipment amounting to upwards of 3,500,000 pounds. It 
has always been, and is now, a great cattle center, and is at present the laigest 
hide receiving point in the State. While Trinidad is rich within herself in 
natural resources, she is also the undisputed trade and money center for an 
immense territory, which includes Southern Colorado, Northern New Mexico, 
and a large portion of Northern Texas. The climate here is delightful, free 
from malaria and fevers, and all the diseases incident to lower altitudes. 

TO THE GULF. 

From Trinidad south, the road traverses the limitless, undulating, great 
staked plains of Texas, first, however, running through a remnant of Colorado 
and across a corner of New Mexico. This splendid country must be seen to 
be appreciated. In productive fertility it is unsurpassed, while the climate 
admits of farming in seasons when the Northern States are under winter snow. 
Here is a land where wheat, cotton, and fruits are a sure crop, and easily raised. 
The average elevation of this great table-land is something over 4,000 feet 
above sea-level. Malaria and fevers are unknown. Over 60,000 actual bona fide 
settlers came into this section in 1889, and the ratio of immigration this year 
is fully as large. Both Iowa and Illinois have sent a la-ge contingent to 
Northern Texas, and more are on the way. The reason alleged for this exodus 
is simply to escape the long winters, and the accompanying discomforts 
of farming, in the higher latitudes, and the desire to secure a home where 



APPENDIX. 



143 



agriculture may be pursued under genial climatic influences. Farming in 
Northern Texas is attended witii none of the hardships known to dwellers in 
the frosty North. 

FORT WORTH, TEXAS, 

The terminus of this division of the Union Paciiic System, is a bright, energetic 
town of 35,000 inhabitants, handsomely built, and possessing all the conven- 
iences and luxuries of modern city life. Here the traveler may plan tours in a 
<lozen different directions, for Fort Worth is one of the greatest railway 
centers in the South. He stands at the very portal of the Southern semi-trop- 
ical realm of magnolia groves and palms and flowers; the warm breath of the 
Gulf invites him; the subtle perfume of summer draws him to become a par- 
taker in the splendor of light and color, on earth and sea and sky, in the serene 
■empire of the sunny South! 




MOUNT PRINCETON HOT SPRINGS, COLORADO, 

On the South Park Division of the Union Pacific System, a perfect park 
of over 1,000 acres, nestled in a beautiful valley at the foot of one of 
the noblest mountains in the Continental Range; the crescent surrounding 
the valley completed by a range of hills densely clothed with pinion pines, 
and, opening out toward the east, the broad Arkansas Valley; a rushing 
mountain torrent flowing for three miles through the grounds; Mount Antero 
and Mount Shavano looking down from their lofty thrones 14,000 feet 
above the world — this is a bird's-eye view of Mount Princeton Hot Springs. 

The springs, over forty in number, are in the heart of this valley; their 
flow is over 1,000,000 gallons daily, the mean temperature being about 130° 
Fahr. These waters have been found very eflicacious in cases of rheumatism, 



144 



APPENDIX. 



dyspepsia, catarrh, and the like, and, in some instances, paralysis has been 
cured. The altitude at the springs is about 8,000 feet; the winters are very 
mild, snow very rarely falling in the valley, owing to the protection afforded by 
the vast range on the west. 

The accommodations offered at Mount Princeton Hot Springs are very 
superior in every particular. The new eighty-room hotel has just been com- 
pleted, and will be open for visitors during the season of 1890. The house is 
one of the finest in Southern Colorado, artistic in design and construction, and 
possessing every modern improvement, as well as those comforts which are so 
welcome to tourists; for the average traveler will be surprised to find at a 
mountain resort a hotel like this, so thoroughly and even luxuriously appointed. 

It is lighted with electricity, heated by hot water, and equipped with hoti 
baths, electric-bells, etc., etc.; a fine bath-house, containing plunge, vapor, and| 
shower baths, supplied from the hot mineral springs; a swimming-pool, 100x300, 
feet; a splendid lake, with an area of about fifty acres, maintained for the enter- 
tainment of guests, m the way of boating and fishing, and, lastly, the observa- 
tory on the summit of Mount Princeton, six miles distant, and reached by an 
easy carriage-road. Mount Princeton is 14,192 feet above sea-level, and one 
of the loftiest peaks in the Continental Range. Nature has been lavish here 
in fitting this spot for a health and pleasure resort, and the time is not far dis- 
tant when these hot springs will be sought by thousands of visitors, as well for 
their beautiful environment as the healing quality of the waters. 




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